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New York Fashion Week (NYFW) may be almost here, but we’re still thinking about the art: Tommy Hilfiger created his own Andy Warhol-esque factory, Ula Johnson drew inspiration from the works of Louise Bourgeois and Lee Krasner. Marni lit up the emerging Italian artist as she made her NYFW debut under the Manhattan Bridge. Here are our highlights from the Spring-Summer 2023 shows.
Tommy Hilfiger
Warhol superstar Donna Jordan walks Tommy Factory’s tin-covered runway. Photo: Thomas Concordia/Getty Images.
After a three-year hiatus, the American brand returned to NYFW with the Tommy Factory, a “phytial” world inspired by Andy Warhol’s Factory, with a tinfoil-covered catwalk and Mylar balloons (both IRL and AR) in the artist’s “Silver Model” clouds” at the Skyline Drive-In in Brooklyn. The show was streamed live on Roblox and featured men’s, women’s and gender-specific styles created with British designer Richard Quinn and a new TH Monogram inspired by illustrator Fergus Purcell, all available to buy in real-time. Warhol favorites Bob Colacello, ex Interview Magazine editor, and actress model Donna Jordan walked the runway in the real world alongside the likes of Julia Fox, Lila Moss, Precious Lee and Harry Neff, while the Metaverse show featured superplastic avatars Janky, Guggimon and Dayzee. Naturally, there was NFT swag.
Ulla Johnson
Courtesy of Ulla Johnson.
For her spring-summer 2023 collection, the New York-based designer looks to nature and art—particularly the textile works of Louise Bourgeois and the abstract expressionist paintings of Lee Krasner. The result was a highly colorful and textural approach – think shibori silk turbans interspersed with hand-embroidered, floral crochet and appliqué embroidery in shades of violet, rose, orange and cerulean – amid sculptures depicting giant lichens and flowers. It blooms.
Corner house Latta
Photo: John Lamparski/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows.
Harpist Mary Lattimore performed in the El Jardin del Paraiso community garden as designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta paid tribute to artist Matthew Underwood, a friend of Latta’s who passed away in 2019. creative dialogue with; “Printing on fabric was part of the experiment,” the designer told Vogue Runway. Underwood’s landscapes and still lifes are colorful and embellished with metallic knit tops and skirts that are at once symbolic and abstract.
Marnie
Courtesy of Marnie.
For a New York debut – not to mention its first show outside of Milan – the Italian fashion house set up a cobblestone runway under the Manhattan Bridge. Creative director Francesco Risso was inspired by the young, Milan- and London-based artist Flaminia Veronesi, whose exquisite watercolors and sculptures were translated into silk dresses, crop tops and shorts with semi-transparent sweaters and jerseys and oversized jeans. Pants featuring colorful, circular prints. Riso also played the cello with the Brooklyn String Orchestra, which performed an original composition by Dave Hynes to accompany the show (subway trains notwithstanding).
Dolls and toys
In favor of toys and dolls.
At the National Arts Club, artist-turned-designer Carly Marks brings together a few seemingly unlikely inspirations that speak to her life in New York (with a wry sense of humor): Stanley Kubrick; Eyes wide shutthe night life of the city and the tragedy of French artist Gustave Dore, 19th-century illustrations by Dante Inferno. The resulting mix includes flame-like ombre, stretchy-lace and power-mesh underwear, tropical sweaters, sequins and handbags made from gummy chocolate-chip cookies, bananas, telephones and devils.
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