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Editor’s note: Kaarin Vembar is obsessed with the luxury and apparel markets. She is also foul-mouthed, so the managing editor decides to give her a column in which she tries to use insight to readers. Carrie can be found at [email protected]
It’s no secret that fashion is going through a drastic change.
You don’t necessarily need runway shows to gain traction as a brand. And the genesis of a trend can be traced as easily to TikTok or Instagram as Fashion Week. The magazines that once told us what was out and what was out have been left behind to the point where there is not even a monthly print fashion magazine.
What’s more, it depends on how people shop. Department stores still exist, but fewer sell luxury or designer clothing. Consumers can shop online or in person directly from a label, but the epidemic is that a company doesn’t need a brick-and-mortar store in every major city to make an impact. Customers are more open to product drops, buying items in person and buying things through social media channels, which are rapidly growing to accommodate e-commerce exchanges.
As consumers are changing their shopping habits, some brands are rising to the occasion to reach people where they are. This is pushing creative thinking about business models.
Whether it’s Telfar creating a bag safety program, Tommy Hilfiger investing in Metaverse and runway at the same time, or Marc Jacobs seeing success in limiting width, here are three designers who are approaching retail in a way that pushes boundaries.
1. Telfar
While many labels are still trying to figure out how to deliver product drops and want to set half their fans’ stuff on fire (looking at you SNKRS app), Telfar has the opposite approach: give everyone everything they want.
Telfar Clemens became a household name in fashion years ago when he released his vegan leather bag. known as ‘Bushwick Birkin’
With their practical-yet-fashionable design and affordable prices, Telfar products consistently sell out. The designer is very clear Its distinguishing purpose “Not for you – for everyone” and developed creative ways to make the products accessible. Especially when people (and bots) want to buy products immediately, only to flip to secondary markets.
The company is using Telfar TV as a means to combat this. The designer announced the start The label’s 24-hour live network during New York Fashion Week in 2016. By the end of 2021. “We basically launched a TV channel without any content – because we were tired of being satisfied with other channels.” Company explained. Fans are encouraged to submit their own videos to be featured on the channel while retaining ownership of their work.
“We are not talking about rumors and scarcity. We didn’t set out to do it. [it] It’s impossible to get a product.”
Telfar TV shows “drip” of targeted product drops. At random intervals, the brand will flash a QR code on the screen for one minute. Viewers can scan products on their phones to order. “A drip bag has fewer drops – but a higher chance of getting one,” the company explains.
In addition, Telfar has launched its very popular bag safety program. In 2020. The effort allows consumers to order as many items as they want in any color, which will be ready and delivered within a few months.
A statement on the company’s website at the time of the announcement said, “We are not about rumors and shortages. We didn’t set out to do it. [it] Impossible to get a product… but the truth is (with or without bots and sellers) we can’t even know how much they make when thousands of bags are sold per second.
Ordering through the program requires consumers to pay all costs in advance. This means that the designer can fully support the initiative and have an idea of the needs of the supply chain.
The fourth iteration of the program started last April and lasted for 36 hours. Consumers can purchase any shopping bag in any size and color with no restrictions. (Okay, with some limitations. It didn’t include round or double bags or brand collaborations, but everything else was fair game.) Shipping is guaranteed between July 15th and October 31st this year.
The latest Bag Safety Program update was emailed to shoppers in early June, and the company said it was ahead of schedule. And to eager recipients, “Please don’t ask us when! It is coming” and it already answers the question of why one person gets the order for another, “God has a plan”.
Tommy Hilfiger also participated in the first Metaverse Fashion Week.
Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger
2. Tommy Hilfiger
It’s Tommy Hilfiger. Going back New York Fashion Week.
Three years later, the company participates in the trade fair through the “Experience Runway Event” with the aim of spreading the experience in the physical and digital world.
This September, the company will present a real-life show in Brooklyn and simultaneously offer a unique experience centered around its Fall 2022 collection.
It will have a Buy Now option, which the company calls an “industry first.” The runway show will be streamed directly to Roblox and the models will be dressed in a designer collection. According to the company, those avatars will “take control of the virtual city of New York.
At the same time as the collection launches, select Tommy Hilfiger stores will see new retail concepts and “control with key wholesale and pure player partners around the world will complement the physical display,” the company’s announcement said. That’s a lot of words that don’t really come close to saying what’s going on. But overall, this concept doesn’t seem to start and end with Brooklyn and Roblox alone. Instead, a big shake-up is coming to its physical stores, the catwalk and digitally.
What’s unique about Tommy Hilfiger as a brand isn’t necessarily its metamorphosis. There are many companies. Trying to find out How to deal with the concept Very few people Understanding. The metaverse is expected to have an impact of up to $5 trillion over the next eight years, giving businesses the incentive to at least take a look at the meta-thing that can generate so much money. (Besides, what’s stopping any company from coming up with a product, branding it, and encouraging people to buy it without really understanding what it is? It’s practically the American Dream.)
Tommy Hilfiger partnered with Roblox last year He expanded that bond. Earlier this summer. The company has launched Tommy Play, where it plans to launch products, offer unique experiences and develop its community, and make further announcements regarding digital and gaming trials in the coming months.
“We’re excited to be able to engage Roblox users in ways we couldn’t with traditional social platforms,” Tommy Hilfiger said in a statement. “With Roblox, we continue to live this world inside us, watching it come to life and working together for the next iteration.I”
Is Hilfiger throwing metaphorical spaghetti at the wall of the metaverse? who knows. But at least both the designer and the company are taking chances.
What makes Tommy Hilfiger interesting is that it’s delving into the digital while maintaining a traditional presence and staying close to its sartorial roots. The company is still designing clothes that resemble the brand – not far from what it does. And it seems to be paying off. A Latest report Tommy Hilfiger says it’s trendy with Gen Z, and is branded as a popular label in casual shoes and casual clothing.
Designer Marc Jacobs (R) watches a runway rehearsal ahead of Marc Jacobs Fall 2022 at the New York Public Library on June 27, 2022.
Dimitrios Kambouris via Getty Images
3. Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs has always been prophetic.
In the year In the early ’90s, he had a grunge-centric runway show that was way ahead of its time and found him. He was fired from Perry Ellis.
The designer finally went on to be Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton For 16 years and Mark was introduced by Marc Jacobs In the early 2000s. The popular distribution label was shut down in 2015, nearly driving the company off the cliff — the line It is reported Up to 80% of brand revenue.
Meanwhile, the company had a revolving door of C-suite executives. Sebastian Suhl, the brand’s CEO for three years, was the mastermind behind that. decided to close Cash Cow Marc by Marc Jacobs. Eric Marechale was brought over from Kenzo as the new CEO. In the year In 2018, John Targon stepped in Take the low cost line For the account and left Only after two months, which was basically enough time to grab a cappuccino and figure out where the light switches are in the office. The French accessories designer was Olympia Li-Tan He was hired in 2018 And She left her own line. Coming to the company, just being It is set In 2020.
All this to say, Marc Jacobs has passed.
However, the company has hit on a business model that pushes it forward. Fashion business It was recently reported The company’s sales have grown by double-digit percentages, it plans to open 20 stores in the next 18 months, and it expects annual sales of $1 billion in the next three to five years.
This may be due to Marc Jacobs creating a collection of runways that showcase a few looks and then releasing another collection. Renamed as The Marc Jacobs. (The company is involved in a very funny thing Fighting for a trademark (The word “the” with Ohio State University.) Items from The Marc Jacobs are directly related to runway looks, but priced in a way that is accessible to a wider audience.
The structure was designed in a way that allowed designer Marc Jacobs to do what he does best, creating high concept art. Yet, there is still a product that can be worn by a large audience, because, let’s face it, the intersection between people who are willing and able to wear high concept fashion is small.
And the company He started heaven in 2020It is aimed at a younger audience. It also gives the fashion brand a prospective audience that is already engaged with its beauty.
For all these designers, some concepts work and others need to be revised or discarded completely. However, what they have in common is increased accessibility. Every brand is inviting more people to participate in an industry that thrives on elitism and exclusion. And some companies are still using it as a strategy – it’s Chanel Preparing to open high-end stores Record-breaking sales among the best customers.
However, other designers are finding their way by allowing consumers to enter into a different relationship with brands and their products. They are getting, as fashion would have it, much more.
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