Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante: The design nerd’s favorite travel watch

Bringing something new to the design table is very easy and very difficult. This is due to the fact that there are many ways to approach a design, which makes it almost impossible for someone else to do it exactly as you do. But there were hundreds, if not thousands, of designers who tried their hand at designing anything. The result is an initial design that may be reminiscent of another recognizable design that already exists.

In this way, it is very easy to create something technically original, but it is difficult to design that thing. He hears. Truly original and not an amalgamation of aesthetics like some of the earlier ones.

That’s why every time a new “insert custom designed item here” starts, the first discussions involve what people remember and how it might be different. If the item is a smartphone, it will undoubtedly compete with the iPhone or perhaps the latest Galaxy. If it is a high-class chair, it can be discussed in the same breath as the famous models of the past Eames lounge chair A Cesca chairor the Barcelona By Ludwig Mies van der RoheHead of current security departments.

The reality of design is that while there are endless ways to shape things, style and beauty group things together in our minds through shapes, textures, colors, or other works that use details to better experience a design. But that doesn’t mean it’s pointless to focus on creating great design that strives for excellence. The ability to see and understand what has come before and to push things a little further from the “known” by tweaking the design gives a whole new feel to a relatively popular figure. Design.

When it comes to designing a new watch collection, this is especially difficult because the design can be compared and contrasted with the most popular models in any category, unless it creates a completely new watch category or abandons all the traditional symbols of a watch. . Ask anyone who designs luxury sports watches what timepieces they like or hate compared to them, and you’ll likely hear the same few names over and over again.

But great designers love this challenge because focusing on the small details and trying to perfect the elements allows a great design to stand on its own and remind people of other great watches. That’s exactly what it is. Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante And that’s what the entire Tonda PF collection has done: create new and unique styles using building blocks already familiar to the collecting community.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante

As I mentioned before, designing a luxury sports watch is difficult, let alone an entire collection, so Parmigiani had a tough job trying to gently reboot the Tonda line. As a heavyweight contender. The result was the Tonda PF set, and I don’t think I need to tell you that it was a success. The new design is a refined delight, delicately playing both sides of the sporty and luxurious visual game.

Since the debut of the Tonda PF’S 2021, Parmigiani has released more models in the PF mold with the GMT Rattrapante which is a highlight for me. At first glance it’s a simple two-hand watch with a clean dial, no date, a simple logo at 12 o’clock, small, applied indices and the winning Tonda PF aesthetic.

But if you scrutinize the details, you’ll notice that there’s a hidden button hidden in the lower left hemisphere, and a small button protruding from the center of the crown for a hint of added sophistication.

This is the secret of GMT Rattrapante, which does not seem to have GMT or any Rattrapante function. In fact, the button on the watch is the GMT advance button, which when pushed moves the white gold hour hand forward one hour, revealing the rose gold home time hour hand underneath. That hand stays on “home time”, the white gold hand can move to match “travel time” or any other reference time.

In this regard, the watch is the perfect travel watch because it assumes no use for that second hand, which is often used by the watch, so it stays hidden by overlapping the dial with the two hands.

The rattrapante function comes into play when you return home from a trip or when you don’t want to track a second time zone. Pushing the button in the crown resets the white gold watch hand, returning to position on the rose gold home time hand with a satisfyingly smooth flywheel movement. Instead of being an instant burst like the typical Rattrapante, it flies home and is clearly weighted in a way that gives a sense of style excellence.

Patented plyometrics

We don’t know about the internal mechanics as Parmigiani has patents pending. A GMT watch uses a 12-pointed star wheel in one-hour increments from the home position, while the Rattrapante uses the heart-shaped cam found on a conventional chronograph. Anyone who knows how those tricks work knows that this trick has to be a little different because it has a way to release the star wheel on return and control the speed of the reset. So while the exact design, including what makes the glider fly, may be hush-hush for the time being, it’s clear the horological chops are in droves with this piece.

The top flip of the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante features the Caliber PF051, a beautiful micro rotor movement on the back similar to the PF703 in Tonda PF Micro Rotor Steel. This makes sense since the new complication is entirely dial side, hence the movement side, patent pending and why not all the pictures. But we know from recent releases like the PF Skeleton, PF Flying Tourbillon and the PF Micro-Rotor that the movement mechanics are top-notch and aesthetically stunning.

As a fan of “first mechanics” watches, I look forward to further explanation of the GMT Rattrapante mechanism, but watching it in action is still extremely satisfying. However, that’s also partly because I like the idea and fall for the overall aesthetic of the Tonda PF upgrade. The simple case with the Parmigiani is just as stunning to my eyes as the sculpted lugs, delicately curved bottle (in platinum no less) and minimalistic dial.

Understanding what stays and what goes

The small barleycorn hand-crafted gills with a satin-finish watch face and small, polished indices, skeletonized hands and a crudely applied logo suggest that Parmigiani understands less. The watch is reminiscent of other popular pieces, and the details aren’t incredibly unique to the collection, but the juxtaposition of different details creates a dynamic watch that both flies under the radar and stands out as a killer luxury sports watch.

Many models are released in steel with a polished platinum bezel to ensure that the watches have presence and some modesty, as the precious metal is visible only to those in the know. It allows you to have a large steel sports watch that is as luxurious as or better than other popular models, yet won’t feel out of place on any wrist.

Speaking of being on the wrist, the integrated bracelet felt great when I tried all the models that were first released last time I was in Geneva, so now the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante takes my favorite model (the simple micro-rotor) and ups the ante with a very useful and subtle complication.

I’m sad to see the day function disappear as I’m one of the few who always appreciates its inclusion, but the super clean dial, especially with the GMT hand hidden, makes this a watch that many can get back to. Initial response to the Tonda PF redesign has been great, with production capacity selling well, and I’m sure this expansion of the collection has seen similar demand for the pieces.

I love all the models in the collection, but the GMT Rattrapante is the cream of the latest crop for me. I like the new GMT function and while I probably gave it the Flyback Dual Time Secret or something a little more obvious, it’s an interesting exercise in trying to rethink how most people use GMT. Oftentimes, brands shy away from approaching complexity with a whole new perspective or different goals, simply because the pressure of tradition is so strong from collectors and the industry.

But that’s why “what if?” I love brands like Parmigiani that aren’t afraid to ask that question. I like that if more brands seriously ask that question, we could see a renaissance of innovation from big brands and not mostly relegated to independents. For now, it gives the edge to brands like Parmigiani, and it’s a good sign that more innovation is to come with designs like the Tonda PF.

While I’m waiting to hear more about the creative mechanics in GMT Rattrapante, let’s break this down!

• Wowza Factor * 9.77 Until you press the button on the lute, the clock seems low-key, so it builds slowly, wow!
• Night Desire Appeal * 97.7 » 958.109m/s2 Depending on what time zone you’re in, you can play through the afternoon or into the evening with GMT action and love it either way!
• MGR * 66.8 New ideas and ways of approaching complexities are a great way to achieve top movement geek status!
• Added: Functionitis * Mild The GMT Rattrapante has only one additional function, and is often not even seen or used. But when it comes out, you need some child strength You have – that A cream to enjoy the versatile horological swelling!
• Ouch Outline * 10.2 Twisting Your Ankle While Walking! Sprained ankles become more of a concern every year after the age of 30, so it’s important to watch your step. Still, I’d happily keep my eyes glued to my wrist if I had this piece on!
• Mermaid moment * What are those keys for? It only takes one press of each button to know when it’s time to throw away your little black book!
• Awesome sum *859 Start with a platinum bezel alloy (950) and subtract the case diameter in millimeters (40) and the caliber number (51) to end up with a slightly mysterious sum!

For more information, please visit parmigiani.com/en/watches/tonda-pf-gmt-rattrapante.

Fast facts Parmigiani flower full PF GMT
Case: 40 x 10.7 mm, stainless steel with platinum bezel
Movement: Automatic Caliber PF051, 48-hour power reserve, 21,600 vph/3Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; GMT divided with “rattrapante” (second time zone).
Price: CHF 26,000

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