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New York Fashion Week A/W 2023 arrived with less fanfare and status than last September after the triumphant, S/S 2023 outbreak. Blame it on the weather or the temporary global economy, but the schedule is surprisingly thin this year with the absence of several hometown favorites including Peter Doe, Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford and Maryam Nasir Zadeh. Usually the tentpole of the week, Marc Jacobs chose to do his own thing, presenting his tribute to the late Vivienne Westwood a week before the show.
But this season is not without highlights. Rodarte and Tom Brown (who now serves as chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America) are both returning to the Big Apple and in bigger venues — Rodarte will take over the historic Williamsburg Savings Bank in Brooklyn, while Brown will bring his theatrical films. To the shed. It debuted on the Heron Preston runway this season, where he created each runway invitation with hand-crafted upcycled materials (everything from soccer balls to broken ceramic stools) that he collected all over the city.
With so many favorites to continue last season’s journey, we expect plenty of surprises. And for visitors who want to support the economy, there are many new stores to explore; Kite for One, following on from previous Kite pop-ups, completes its runway show with the opening of its first standalone boutique.
Here, Wallpaper* reports on the highlights of New York Fashion Week A/W 2023. PRK
New York Fashion Week A/W 2023: The highlights
Corner house Latta
(Image credit: Courtesy of Eckhaus Latta)
One of the most interesting aspects of Ekhouse Lata’s shows is their constant eagerness to share the moment with friends and fans. This sense of community often spills over into their footage, as they walk through the show with their friends – the White Lotus Actor John Gris appeared this evening in a mohair jumper and jeans – and his creative collaborators like photographer Mary Manning. Tonight on Six Flights in the Lower East Side, 30 menswear and womenswear looks were showcased to a soundtrack of industrial electronic music by Manchester duo Demdic Star in a show that started in the dark. Visceral, raw, natural, dark: Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta have a knack for injecting swelling into an outfit without feeling ineffective or overly narrative. Nature, and the undoing of its current tension and confinement, seems to be at the forefront of the mind, with split leather, raw linen with exposed zips, fur lining, shearling and fur. The Seventies vibe was inspired by classy jumbo cord pants, exaggerated platform shoes (sometimes in rainbow colors), bare sleeves, and cobweb mohair. The soundtrack continued in a rush. Dégradé prints, rubber gloves with thumbs sticking out, a gorgeous gray wool coat with the seams deliberately exposed and a soft organza lace look all added to the tumultuous feel – things may not be as they first appear. TMS
Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler A/W 2023
(Image credit: Courtesy of Proenza Schouler)
With so many of New York’s power players gone, Proenza Schouler feels like one of the city’s remaining institutions. Celebrating its 20th anniversary, the still-independent brand channeled New York character power through a list of friends including Marc Jacobs and Natasha Lyonne, who wore polka dots last September. Many creative collaborators are also involved: the voice – or rather the ‘inner monologue’ about everyday life, friends, family and work in the city, mundane and profound – is written by the American author Otessa Moschfug. Narrated by Cloë Sevigny (who opened the show) and scored by Arca.
Jack McCollough and Lázaro Hernandez described the show as ‘probably our most personal collection, because it feels so authentic to what we personally love … it’s simply a collection of clothes that we find compelling and necessary at the moment, a whole wardrobe’. This was revealed in what appeared to be a revisiting of the brand’s best-loved beachwear, albeit fresh-eyed: black and white ankle-length dresses with tie-dye shimmering on origami folds, baggy jackets open at the waist with leather ties, fitted with leather round skirts. Fleece hoodie, tasteful jewelry, leather slouchy wedge heeled boots. Acknowledging that the brand’s time has come, the clothes also reflect a grown-up air, with a professional look that references ’90s feminine silhouettes with high-waisted long-line jackets and pleated trousers. TMS
Sandy Liang
(Image credit: Courtesy of Sandy Liang)
Sandy Liang lived out all of our high school nightmares. This collection, which reveals everyday beauty, was held at the New York Academy of Medicine Library. Memories of youth and school hall were mixed with more elegant items such as sailor collars, knit skirts, mini ruched skirts and faux fur trimmed jackets with bell sleeves, tent tunic shapes, ruffled tulle bodices and romantic lace. Dresses. Realized in a saccharine palette of baggy whites, blush pinks and lipstick reds, the collection’s sweetness is complemented by sensual knit bralettes, long low-cut dresses and cargo pants with ribbon backs for a strong modern appeal. Liang’s much-loved square-toe sandals are joined by a pair of contrasting sneakers in a new collaboration with Salomon. PRK
Dion Lee
(Image credit: courtesy of Dion Lee)
Dion Lee’s provocative approach to gender-fluid clothing brought a new sensibility to experiments with transparency and texture. Lee accentuated his appreciation of the body’s anatomy by mimicking reptilian scales, diamond-shaped hardware embellishments, distressed skin, ripped jeans and snake-like looks. Shibori. Applied to the second-skin pieces attached to the body of the female and male models, as the clothes flow like snake skin, there is a sense that the homogeneous, curved figures are stretched from the shoulders and hips. Evening wear in sheer jersey and intricate beading – actually constructed from strings of ball chains – reflected a delicacy that was still true to their brand. Flanked by sheer breathable puffer jackets and high-necked shearling leather bikers, Lee showcased his mastery of style signatures while demonstrating his ability to change with the seasons. PRK
hill road
(Image credit: courtesy of Colina Strada)
Colina Strada’s Hilary Taymor continues to push the boundaries of fashion with her bold and edgy approach. The collection, titled ‘Please Don’t Eat My Friends’, is dedicated to promoting the bond between living creatures on Earth. Based on this non-linear, non-hierarchical vision, Taymor assembled a typically universal collection that celebrated playfulness with practicality. Sustainable and recycled materials are sculpted into fantastic shapes; Mesh pieces were embellished with gecko prints and were mixed with fragile satin gowns, shoulder horns, plant-based silk button-ups and tunics. Hoodies and low-waisted pants, meanwhile, are cut from potato cotton and jacquard. Knitwear, always a highlight, is made this season in collaboration with the sustainable Italian brand Vitelli, and from hats to dusty coats, all in an intricate plaid. The show also coincided with the launch of the label’s collaboration with Vans, which featured hand-painted classic styles in shades of fiery pink and green. PRK
Stay tuned for more from New York Fashion Week A/W 2023.
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