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“This Is Us,” said Molly Goddard following her performance from past seasons. Gone are the pump dresses and tulle skirts, and in their place are delicate silhouettes with sporty and schoolgirl looks.
And the big place came out. In the past, Goddard has performed at venues such as the Seymour Leisure Center and the spacious gym at Great Central Hall, Westminster. This time, the show took place in her East London studio space, where she had few guests and photographers and not much in the way of a set.
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Asked about the pivot, Goddard said it felt like the right time to go back to the source. “I love this studio. We do everything here, and it’s a very special place. It felt very honest to say, ‘This is where we are, this is what we do,'” said the designer.
As a fashion-loving teenager and glossy magazine devotee, she took the same retro approach to the collection, looking at and coveting the clothes she wore.
The collection was more casual than in the past, and had a sporty edge, like a ribbed wool skater skirt and a long, elegant tennis skirt with 1920s verve.
School uniforms also appeared in the form of a gray woolen coat decorated with colorful velvet stripes; Solid cardigans with a single fold in the front; and a navy tailored jacket layered over a raspberry tulle skirt.
Goddard didn’t lose all the big volumes. Sparkling strapless prom dresses, some covered in leopard print, and yellow tulle with black stitching, gave a nod to the designer’s signature style, which fashion designers love and high street brands love to emulate.
The result was charming, if low-key and less expressive than Goddard’s previous outings.
“We love to make clothes, and remembering that this season felt good,” says the designer. “We were making clothes that looked very practical, that would age and wear.”
Who can blame her? In an era where consumers are buying and renting, renovating and selling less, they need to consider business practices and different price points, all in the name of sustainability.
Launch Gallery: Molly Goddard RTW Fall 2023
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