Leone brought the brand home for the first time at New York Fashion Week

Ever since Leone’s runway debut a year ago, it’s been clear that the brand’s women love custom, but not overstuffed; Great stuff, but not your average; and shapes, statement enough to catch the eye but wearable enough for every day. The brand’s latest runway show at New York Fashion Week saw designer LaToya Fitzgerald present another dose of sophisticated sultry-chic, the designer tells ESSENCE this time with a more personal feel — a love letter.

“Knowing that I’m going to be performing my set so close and sharing this moment with my family makes me so emotional,” Fitzgerald tells ESSENCE before Thursday night’s show. The season. “This collection references my childhood in Philly and nostalgic New York fashion, so a lot more of who I am is covered in this period.”

On the runway, models were mostly painted black, save for brief orange, white and blue jeans. However, an emphasis on shade in high-quality fabrics (as in tube tops, mini skirts, matching sets, and vinyl or patent leather materials) pushes the designs into muted territory. And low. Essentially, elevating the basics is what Fitzgerald does best, her ability to produce long sleeves, oversized collars and off-kilter structured prints come together on the runway. It’s quickly become a signature piece for Leon, and Fitzgerald told ESSENCE that this collection is a natural progression from the last one. In addition to aesthetic choices, the collection hints at other ways the brand continues to grow, as the first collection was made in Italy (Fitzgerald took fans behind the scenes on Instagram) with a focus on high quality.

Famous for drawing a star-studded crowd, celebrities like Draya Michelle and Cassie sat front row at Leone wearing their favorites from the designer. And by the end of the games, the audience was in for a more personal love letter than even Fitzgerald could have imagined. First, classy leather pants turned into a cropped skirt. Then an unexpected marriage proposal closed the show, and the designer left her own runway.

Check out each view from the show ahead.