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As the sun set in New York City on Wednesday, a melting pot of black-owned designer wear — Telfar duffel bags and Hanifa dresses among them — poured into the Shopify store in the Soho neighborhood for the Afropunk x Shopify Black Fashion instant fashion show. .
The fashion show is the culmination of the first year of the Black Fashion Accelerator program, a partnership between Afropunk and Showify designed to provide professional development to a new cohort of nine fashion designers to help them create more profitable and sustainable brands.
“Black-owned businesses are underrepresented in the US, and Shopify is committed to making entrepreneurship accessible to anyone, anywhere,” said Amena Ajaje, head of black entrepreneurship at Shopify. “Nothing inspires me more than giving black entrepreneurs the tools and support to grow their businesses.”
Over a six-month period, the first class of designers were given access to experts and resources in the fashion industry, including special mentorship from Chris Bevans, a 2017 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, and performance director Dyne.
The 2022 BFA will include a class of designers Bronte Laurent, par Bronté Laurent; Archie Clay 3rd and Tajh Crutch, founders wear bra; Jessica Smith, Founder Fleck’s House; Melissa A. Mitchell, Founder Bee creations; Valerie Blaise, founder of Avvoyou; Paakow Essandoh, founder Roots: Sophia Danner – You listen, founder Speak upA, and Sylvester Elephant, Founder RuvaAfricWear.
The Shopify store had large front windows that gave way to a multi-level stage, where models stepped out to showcase the designers’ collections among the divided crowd. DJ Mixshow and host Jito entertained the crowd with Afrobeats tunes and spoken word which gave the show a warm and casual atmosphere.
Okoti’s collection for the brand Besida, titled Masego, which the designer says means “blessing” in the Tswana language of Botswana, features cotton Ankara reversible wrap maxi dresses, Ankara kaftans with asymmetrical hems and An Ankara top/skirt combo that can be worn four ways. Besida takes a sustainable approach to his designs, paying homage to the designer’s Nigerian roots and how the people there embrace sustainable and non-wasteful practices.
“We really try to make sure that we source our fabric right in Nigeria, and our team of artisans is in Nigeria. I always say that we Africans know how to take something and make the most of it,” Okoti said. “We’re very sustainable by nature, so that’s what influences our sustainable designs.” I have people wearing my clothes since 2015 because we make sure the clothes are well made so you don’t have to throw them away.
In addition to sustainable fashion design, Besida pays a living wage to the West African female artisans who work for the brand, a reason Okoti says has equipped many workers financially to pursue higher education.
“Two of my tailors quit in the middle of this year, and I was tempted to hurt myself until they told me they were going to college. Designers say they can rely on this steady paycheck to put money away to afford school. Now, they’re going to learn mass law and communication, so I’m very proud of that.
Inspired by the Zambian space program of the 1960s, Mizizi’s new collection, called Afronaut, twists the future into the imagination of black people wearing Mizizi custom on their journey into space. The models, sporting afros and holographic sunglasses, wore space-appropriate oversized jumpsuits, form-fitting jersey shirts and shorts with the brand’s logo printed on the sleeves and the word “Afronaut” across the center, and baggy lightweight draft jackets for streetwear—a good look at the galaxies.
Isandoh created Mizzi in 2013 while studying at the University of South Florida, and says the branding idea was a passion project that allowed him to connect with other cultures. The Ghanaian-American designer says it’s important to represent other cultures in his streetwear designs, especially in the African diaspora.
“The African diaspora means community to me. “We may not necessarily be the same or have the exact cultures, but there’s a comfort level whenever you meet others in the diaspora,” he said. “You can feel confident wherever you wear it, and still respect your culture at the same time.”
Fashion influencer Claire Sulmers, founder of fashion blog Fashion Bomb Daily, was among the attendees, while Monique Rodriguez, founder of black-owned hair care brand Miele Organza, styled all of the models’ hair for the show.
As for the fashion industry’s priority to support black entrepreneurs in fashion, Essandoh says the Black Fashion Accelerator is a great example to replicate.
“The accelerator program is exactly what needs to be done,” said the founder of Mizzi. “To attract young people who have experience in all aspects of the fashion industry and who look like us and invest in fashion education.”
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