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Waterfalls cascade down the marble walls of the early 20th century Beaux-Arts building where Proenza Schouler showed his latest collection at New York Fashion Week.
To be clear, the water wasn’t actually wet, but built into the video installations. Still, the soothing cascades make a big impression on the clothes on Friday’s runway shows—especially the slides that pull on the bulk or flow down the back of the dress or “drip” over long sleeves.
At the Hall des Lumières exhibition space in the former Immigrant Industrial Savings Bank building (the first example of a New York building in the Beaux-Arts style), designers Lázaro Hernandez and Jack McCullough presented a collection they said was their personal mix. Stories – In their own words, “The passionate and fiery qualities of Lazaro’s Latin roots combine with the pragmatism of Jack’s American experience. Water, the dual, is chosen as the symbol of life.
Featuring skin-hugging or slouchy looks, unlike the designers’ offerings, the collection opened with a selection of twisted and edgy looks, including two-piece embellished dresses, knit skirts and ruched bodysuits. Later there was an ensemble with a shimmering gold ruffled sleeveless and sheer skirt.
Hernández later said that the duo found “this amazing community of handloom weavers in Bolivia,” where a group of women worked on the set for six months.
In conceiving the show, McCullough said the duo started with a series of images. The idea of water is expressed in the sense of dripping – for example, a pair of loose bell-bottom pants or a ruffled black leather dress. Apart from curvy looks, lace dresses add another distinct look.
“We wanted to mess around,” McCollough said of the current set’s testing process.
The designers, who met as students at Parsons School of Design, named their fashion label after both their mothers’ maiden names. They often base their collections on the themes of contemporary art or culture.
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