The Tom Ford-era Gucci Horsebit Clutch is back and better than ever – WWD

Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Gucci; Giovanni Gianoni/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images

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A handbag is not simply a handbag. If this were the case, there would never be an “It” bag, a designer handbag that rose to the level of popularity as one of the most coveted accessories on the market at some point in time. As Karl Lagerfeld once said, “Luxury bags make your life more interesting, make you dream, give you confidence and show your neighbors that you are doing well.”

In the 90s and early aughts, several leather and canvas carriers achieved It bag-status, such as the Fendi baguette and the Dior saddle bag, both of which have made a resurgence in recent years. And for many fashion lovers, these sacred bags will forever hold a place in our hearts as treasured time capsules of our lives and culture, custodians of prime memories. Now, those iconic bags are remembered and celebrated on Pinterest boards and Instagram accounts like @Y2Kbags. And today, at Gucci’s Fall 2023 runway show, creative director Alessandro Michele’s first womenswear collection since releasing it, I’m reminded of a bag—this bag—which never achieved status, but nonetheless left a lasting impression on me. Life as a Fashionable Young Student: The Gucci Horsebit Chain Clutch.

Unexpectedly from the house of Gucci, a trapezoid-shaped bag with large horseshoe hardware has made its first appearance since 2004. Neutrals – and textures – from plush silk to leather and even crystal-encrusted eye candy. Without a single heir to the Gucci throne, the design team pays tribute to the designers and artisans who have contributed to the house’s identity, drawing inspiration from the brand’s history of the past 30 years, which has made it one of the most powerful Italian luxury labels. While the runway show featured new jack bags and other bag styles, the elongated clutch with large horsebit hardware from Tom Ford’s reign at Gucci made the biggest impact in the 53-look collection.

In the year In 1955, Gucci introduced the first equestrian-inspired Horsebit bag, two years after the horsebit detailing debuted on Gucci loafers. “The horsebit motif quickly became synonymous with the fashion house,” says Noel Sciacca, senior fashion director at The Real Real. And even though Ford has incorporated horsebit hardware into its clutch design, Michell will be credited with reviving the classic bag in the 2020 Cruise collection, which Sciacca says horseshit styles continue to grow in popularity. If we look at 2020 compared to 2022, demand for Gucci horsebits has increased by 130%.

Ford’s horsebit interpretation may not have reached the top of the bag, but it was a best seller for the brand. The first collections of the new millennium featured minimalist bags without flashy logos or brand signatures until spring 2003, which included bags featuring the house’s signature bamboo detailing. The following season, In the fall of 2003, Ford introduced the Horsebit Chain Clutch. Appearing only in black and off-white, the bag’s appeal was all in the fine details, with a mix of textures and hardware. Gucci’s 2003 ad campaign, photographed by Mario Testino, featured model Dewi Drigen, topless and wearing leather opera gloves and aviator sunglasses (very trendy for 2023) holding a beautiful nude baby.

For the following collection, Spring 2004, the Horsebit Chain Clutch was printed with a pop of color (for the hardware and leather), eye-catching textural combinations, and of course Gucci’s signature logo. These bags were a feast for the eyes and the epitome of a statement bag for the bold and unapologetically glamorous Gucci woman of the time.

One of the most famous celebrity styles for bag design was in March 2004 when Tom Ford was honored at the Rodeo Walk of Style Awards in Beverly Hills. Actress Lucy Liu and singer Gloria Gaynor both carried Horsebit Chain Clutch bags at the event along with several other attendees.

Unfortunately, Gucci had some stiff competition for the it bag crown from competitors like Louis Vuitton and Dior. The Aughts were a high point for both the Gucci brand and Tom Ford, but as senior management at PPR (now Kering) sought more control over the Gucci group, it would lead to the end of an era. Tom Ford closed his tenure with his Fall 2004 collection, one of his most glamorous collections of all time, praised by all. However, the large horsebit design was not part of the pride for the bags, which featured two-headed dragon-shaped hardware (which was also applied to the gowns in the collection). As Gucci’s final collection was one of the season’s most important runway shows, the clutch missed its moment in the spotlight. In addition, the 2004 ushered in a new wave of designer bags with more solid shapes and heavy hardware, such as the Chloé Paddington bag designed by Phoebe Philo, less flashy and suitable for everyday wear.

A picture of the bag and a large list of horses It has appeared only once in a Gucci collection since Tom Ford’s time on the label. In the year In 2011, designer Frida Giannini launched the bag at G. Gucci included it in the Firenze 1921 collection, a limited edition to celebrate Gucci’s 90th anniversary.

Although the bag style has fallen out of the fashion stratosphere, this wasn’t the last time we’d see the Horsebit Chain Clutch. Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, carried the clutch to a rugby match in Wales in November 2012, the same red version worn by Jennifer Aniston in class. Friends“The One Where Ross Fine” In 2003, it was discovered by a Twitter fan and reported by Hello Magazine.

In the year Cut to 2019, Kendall Jenner was seen sporting a monogrammed Tom Ford bag from Spring 2004 with yellow and green croc-embossed leather detailing, and again in February 2022, sporting a monogrammed Tom Ford bag. Style icon Rihanna, whose style influence knows no bounds, carried the red velvet version of the bag with crystal embellishments while attending a reggae show in Barbados. Could being seen in the hands of such influential stylists inspire the design team at Gucci to bring it back?

“The clutch is a particularly popular figure — it shows a lot of wear,” Sciacca said of the bag style’s popularity on The Reel. “Since it’s no longer in production, consumers are happy to have a little more clothing to make their own.” Although buying vintage bags is a popular shopping trend on The Real Real, according to the company’s 2023 Luxury Goods Report, it will be interesting to see whether consumers prefer the shiny new versions or look for older Tom Ford designs.

Coincidentally or not, the return of the elongated bag is perfectly paired with the bad trends of fall 2023: sequins, lace, feathers and lustrous delicate fabrics. Day or night, the bag’s undeniable versatility makes it a worthy bet for it bag status.

As the fashion pendulum swings between dem and spoken Dystopia-core to dopamine-inducing fashions brimming with opulence, Gucci’s new collection defies gravity. Described in the brand’s press release as “an exciting conversation between past and future” and “an example of the heartbeat of Gucci”, this celebratory moment in the history of the Italian fashion house will be a key memory for fashion insiders and fans, one of which is this. The beloved Horsebit Chain Clutch Bag will definitely not be forgotten.

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Find the author

Adam Mansuroglu Commercial director for WWD and Shoe News, senior editing and writing shopping content for both sites. The Brooklyn native has written countless fashion stories for publications like Cosmopolitan, Men’s Health, Outdoor Magazine and more for over 12 years. Mansuroglu has followed the collections of Gucci since 2002, as the design of the Tom Ford brand inspired him to work as a fashion editor in his youth.