The effect of Queen’s silence on the British fashion industry

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The tribute, from designers from Stella McCartney to Paul Smith, shows the impact Queen Elizabeth II has had on the British fashion community throughout her reign. From the way London legend Alexander McQueen constantly references royal portraits, to Erdem Moralioglu’s reimagining of the Queen’s history for his own narratives, Her Majesty, as Sarah Burton put it, “was a constant source of unease.” But beyond the obvious references – headscarves, loafers and ladylike handbags – there are other, quieter ways that quality advocates have helped elevate the way we dress.

Announcing Richard Quinn as the recipient of the 2018 Queen Elizabeth II Award, Her Majesty touched on the talent at the heart of the country she represented: “From the Hebrides, Nottingham Lace, and of course Carnaby Street, our fashion industry has long been known for its superior craftsmanship, world-class fabrics and modern practicality. He continues to produce designs. This level of excellence – which is the bedrock of British fashion – is echoed in the Royal Warrant system, which Sonnet Stanfill, the V&A’s senior curator of fashion, described as “a symbol of distinction that symbolizes heritage and tradition”. A brand’s welcome to the royal family (warrant holders must have provided goods or services to the Queen or the former Prince of Wales, now King Charles III, for at least five years) is a true indicator of excellence. British – loud, not showy, but quiet, classic fashion to the end.

“As a Royal Warrant holder, we adhere to the highest ethical and environmental standards,” says Joe Smith, who received his speech at Her Majesty’s first royal address 60 years ago. Queen at the Larkhall factory in Scotland. “Therefore, our processes and standards are strict – from purchasing raw materials for our fabrics to handling the workers in the factories and excellence in finished products and services.”

Her Majesty at Daks HQ in Larhall, 1979

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