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Translated by
Cassidy Stephens
Published
March 12, 2023
In the year The Fashion Week marathon, which began in New York on February 12 and ran through London and Milan before finishing in Paris, marked the return to normalcy after three years of the pandemic. Buyers are back in force and brands continue their physical presence, with crowds flocking to the fair. Everywhere, it is about increasing the product. This season focused on beautiful, high-quality, and almost classy clothes. Just a few flashes of red or yellow brightened the sets, with neutral tones, mostly grey. The women’s ready-to-wear collections for Fall-Winter 2023-2024 highlight a strong, strong woman who easily borrows from menswear. She is sophisticated, refined yet elegant. Her femininity played freely in tracksuits and jacket jackets.
clothing
This season has confirmed the return to a chic, uncluttered and refined image, the great classics of the women’s clothing store, starting with the dress, the symbol of the working girl. Appearing all over catwalks, it’s making a strong comeback alongside pantsuits, which have been in fashion for several seasons. From traditional men’s fabrics or unexpected materials, such as a sweater by Miu Miu, in a sexy mini version or a mid-length skirt, a jacket with broad shoulders, shortened or twisted in an hourglass shape, for a retro touch.
New look dress
Dressing in what’s left of happiness is becoming an antidote to the dark atmosphere around us. In this context, fashion designers have presented a new formal style, the dress has made a strong comeback. It was done in innovative constructions with draperies, bias cuts, etc. Alongside the mid-length and straight pencil skirt, several designers have reintroduced the flared corolla skirt, which features a wasp waist in a clean new look style.
Noisy
The body in this season, starting from the back and shoulders, but always taken elegantly. Gone are the corsets with sexist connotations. This season it was replaced by a bustier. In fact, it can be attached to a shirt or jacket to define the waist, or worn as such, it increases the chest and fits all body shapes. Designers are having a field day with casual wear, trench coats and coats.
Spots or spots?
This retro motif, most reminiscent of the 1950s in its white polka dot version on a black background, is making a comeback, following the lead of the neo-bourgeoisie. But designers like Marni or Benetton are innovating by playing with optical and geometric effects or changing the print with a slightly rockier touch (studs, eyelets or gold balls) as seen at Balmain, off-white. , Lanvin and WAKE Mode, among others.
Loosen the pants
Chic in all situations, winter 2023-2024 woman will live strictly in her time. She can go out half-naked without even noticing. No skirts or pants! A pair of tight, if possible opaque and cute pair of knickers would go well with a good jacket and preferably a three quarter length or slightly loose jumper. Started by a few celebrities, this “no pants” trend is making significant strides in winter collections.
Show off your underwear
In the same relaxed vein, the woman does not hesitate to reveal her underwear. But be careful, there is no question of playing the lust doll. It’s all about perspective. There’s nothing cooler than letting your undershirt or tights peek out from your skirt like N°21 or Gucci, or wearing it with a sweater or jacket like Miu Miu. The bra can be seen in a low-cut model by Lanvin or an asymmetrical sleeveless dress by Gabriela Hearst. Not to mention the white panties that are visible under the loose clothes. But the best thing is that, following the trend that has been known among men for years, the gentleman’s white shorts are pulled under the chic skirt; Low-waisted pants show off underwear strategically.
Small breast
Another strong trend was showing off your breasts. Many catwalks have created at least one strong impression where breasts are hidden by tiny bras. A pair of ties by Sportmax, a belt by Heliot Emile, two silver spoons by the Swedish brand Hodakova, a feather by Anne Demilmeister, a metallic micro-bikini with a jeweled logo by Gucci, a floral bra by David Koma and a pirate eye patch by Nancy Dojaka or Vaquera. The shirtless trend is on the rise, women wear jackets and clothes with nothing underneath.
Cropped
Designers have cut everything for next winter. The upper parts are systematically shorter. From jackets that are cut below the chest, boleros, have changed to shoulder pads, to sweaters and other tops that seem to reveal the navel. Everything goes, including jackets and coats.
Men’s jacket
With the return of tailored pieces made of men’s fabrics, with a focus on long coats and “square” jackets, women adopted a more masculine code, including the uniform again in the military register. But, again, designers changed and reinterpreted these codes. So, a three-piece dress below the waist serves as the new tank top, much nicer than a simple cotton sweater. It is worn with a shirt under the suit jacket or with the pants itself.
Tie
Still in the men’s category, this accessory is making a spectacular comeback in women’s wardrobes. Valentino has dedicated the entire collection to ties for next summer. Especially a black tie worn with a classic white shirt. But it can be reversed with polka dots, tone on tone, or as a scarf.
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