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Established in 1996, Dr. Noki is a tried and true member of the sustainability movement – arguably the founder of the term before it was even coined. thing. Having founded his label under the legacy of London’s 90s DIY rave scene, the revolutionary designer has always been on a fearless path with a message of rebellion.
NOKI aims to represent the sound of tomorrow, crafting cycling apparel from hand-picked waste bins, featuring head-turning distressed sportswear alongside mixed logos and 1-in-1 streetwear couture creations. Now, he’s landed on the London Fashion Week calendar, showcasing the brand’s SS23 collection.
In the year In September 2020, as we speak to Dr Noki about the legacy of Fashion East and present an oral history of the talent disrupting London’s industry:
“I was in all these different crews from London, from Camden, Soho, Portobello. And there were the actual Shoreditch days: off my head, I busted my breasts, surrounded by a crowd of people with their breasts, smashed and poisoned. I’m not really fashion-built; I’m not very good at being around the fashion industry. I’ve tried but it won’t go anywhere. The press was drying up. I didn’t feel like I could go any further, so I pulled myself together and started working on my art again.
However, the SS23’s presentation felt smack-bang in the middle of this previous statement. It was anti-fashion in all of NOKI’s signature ways, subverting any look we’ve seen up to this point. It is against the norm. “I don’t care about fashion,” he says, maybe you really do. That’s because, in a collection made mostly of cycling and distressed clothing, there are boots with NHS iconography, references to the world of sportswear and sneakers like the Nike Air Force 1 or Adidas Originals Stan Smith Sports Custom Visions that care about their image, like a show-off. It’s not a way.
An intimate crowd decked out in chairs decked out in classical compositions and soundtracked by classic NOKI t-shirts, the label began to embrace the selection – playing on themes seen at the runway show. The atmosphere was pure joy. Perhaps their morale was boosted by the show notes, which, instead of offering uplines and footnotes, list the names of each artwork and “Facebook Begins War,” “Karen with AK,” “Monkey Pox” and “Skid MINIONS Zine.”
The music was switched to a JBL boom box. From here the Hypebeast team narrowed down the approach to something ideal. The cleaningBut that wasn’t a bad thing. Bootlegs were ruined, slits were too dangerous and too accurate to show faces in clothes, low-waisted elements were combined with high-waisted accessories to create traditional denim and tracksuits, which is fashionable for us. My right to all the good, crooked ways.
It was anger. The audience brought their energy with audible appreciation and consistent “oohs” and “ahhs,” especially when the artwork seemed to intertwine with the set and the model. The models did what they wanted – Noki wore one look and tossed it from the model’s bag in front of him into the crowd, while others pulled their clothes down, or in other cases, posed for cameras, for the runway, and ultimately helped make the show as intense as it was.
Check out the walking art that is the NOKI SS23 collection in the gallery above. More Hypebeast London Fashion Week SS23 content can be found here and on their new Instagram account @HypebeastUK.
For more LFW content, here are the best trends from this week’s show.
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