NEFFA aims to make tailoring obsolete in the fashion industry.

Why are we writing about this?

This startup takes a holistic approach that can address social and environmental issues in the fashion industry.

Traditional production processes in the fashion industry are knitting and sewing. Knitting is a relatively sustainable process, because single cut pieces can be made immediately in the intended shape, creating no waste. But most of the clothes are sewn, which is very resource-intensive. This is because cutting from the yard causes a lot of fabric waste and sewing the cut pieces together takes a lot of time.

The U.S. defense industry already uses sewing robots, but as materials become more flexible, many robots lack the intelligence needed to stitch pieces together.

Unsolved production problems

Outsourcing production to low-wage countries did not solve the problem, it only changed, and created more problems. This is because there are exploitative working conditions in the workshops, most of them in Asia, with long working hours and low wages. “We can solve these problems and bring production to Europe,” explains Annela Hoitink, co-founder and CEO of Dutch start-up NEFFA. Together with technician Nicoline Van Inter, she developed a comprehensive system that was set to become the next big manufacturing process in the fashion industry – along with sewing and knitting.

Video: Molding instead of sewing: Startup NEFFA develops an alternative to the expensive sewing process in the fashion industry.

“The fashion industry is a long supply chain and a difficult process in production. Each product is individual and requires a new production line. This means that the necessary machines must be organized in the most possible order to ensure accurate and fast processes, which takes time and reduces the productivity of workshops.” Aniella explains.

Back to local production

The NEFFA system developed at her start makes this conversion obsolete and brings the promise of comparable production in Europe. Because all work steps are done by robot. This can greatly shorten the growth of the product and reduce the burden on the environment. Currently, product samples are transported from Europe to Asia and back several times to ensure careful processing. This process lasts for months and pollutes the environment with CO.₂ Transportation emissions. We are on-site and more flexible in production by eliminating long transportation lines. After a successful trial, repeat orders can be made quickly,” explains Aniella.

Universal solution

The universal production system she and technician Nicole van Inter developed is based on a material made from mushroom roots that can be worked in three dimensions. This eliminates the sewing process and allows the entire product to be made by a robot. NEFFA does not build a factory itself, but acts as a knowledge broker and collaborates with companies that bring critical competences along the supply chain, from materials to paint colors and production to coatings. There are only a few manufacturing steps between material production and coating – and it all happens in just seven days!

The founders have submitted proofs of concept and are currently collaborating with the German company Desma, one of the largest manufacturers of shoe manufacturing machines. According to Aniella, there are two possible production strategies to date. The purpose of the collaboration is to identify the most suitable. At the same time, a pilot batch is created. Together with partners in the fashion industry, prototypes are developed that meet individual requirements in terms of durability, durability and wearability.

In 3D production

The production method currently being tested was preceded by mycotex, a substance extracted from the root of mushrooms. It grows in large containers and is ready to harvest after five to seven days. After processing, the raw material can be used as paste, dyed and made into clothes.

The necessary production equipment is a robot arm and a predetermined mold. The robot applies the soft mass to the mold, and the drying process creates a strong but flexible fabric in 3D shape. After removing the product from the mold, it only needs to be covered and sent for the final process.

Flexible product

The main advantage of the production method is its flexibility. The fully automated process can be used for clothing as well as accessories and shoes and does not require high heat or pressure. As a result, the shape can be like foam and take different shapes. The robot recognizes the shape and acts according to the information it receives from the mold. So the same robot that is used to make a bag can make a shoe or a garment.
To ensure the viability of their venture into the fashion industry, the founders initially wanted to produce large quantities. But their long-term goal is to manufacture according to their body measurements from the needs of consumers. They can order the model they want online, upload their body scan, and receive a custom fit in no time.

Wool-like material

The material is soft and looks like something between leather and plastic. The surface of the material can be smooth or soft. Aniela offers a bag with large protrusions in the shape of a cone – a novel beauty that has never been seen before – and it is possible only with the production method. The most common text structure can be a structure similar to crocodile skin.

According to Aniela, mycotex is widely used in the fashion industry because of its varying thickness, flexibility and texture. Currently, the company is showing great demand from the leather processing industry. Aniella says, “There are several companies here that are working with mycelium. For them, our production method is the next step.

Perishable

Mycotex has the advantage that it can be produced from renewable raw materials in an environmentally friendly way. At the end of its life cycle, a garment can be easily decomposed by the user at home. Aniella and Nicole want to have great potential in developing other materials, such as collagen or algae-based raw materials, not only with mycelium. The developed production process is in principle suitable for all biotechnologically produced materials.