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Carlo Capassa, chief executive of Italian fashion association Camera della Moda, is calling for more time for New York, Paris and London as Milan Fashion Week announces a packed spring/summer 2023 schedule for September, including 67 shows.
“This is a positive problem because it shows the importance of Italian industry,” Capasa said in an interview. But it’s also crazy. We cannot have 12 or 13 shows and presentations on the calendar every day. We had to rotate some brands. I have already spoken to the other fashion weeks and said – with great respect – we need one more day.
Milan’s provisional schedule for September, released today, is definitely packed – Antonio Marras will return on Wednesday morning. And Sunday’s live shows, Giorgio Armani’s tentpoles and the recently announced Milan debut of Matthias Bova with the support of Dolce & Gabbana. Highlights in between include Diesel’s public spectacle and runway looks at Etro by Marco De Vincenzo. Salvatore Ferragamo by Maximilian Davis; Bali is led by Rugi Villaseñor and Missoni by Filippo Grazioli. Another first-ever live group runway presentation will be WAMI (We Are Made in Italy), Michel Ngonmo’s self-described BIPOC designer collective working alongside Italian designer Stella Jean and US-born Edward Buchanan. 1990s Bottega Veneta was the first designer.
Stalwarts including Prada, Max Mara, Bottega Veneta, Gucci and Versace are still and correct. Moncler 70th Anniversary One of fashion’s most established but Italian-owned and operated companies, the label will hold a special show on Saturday night to celebrate its 70th anniversary. Other evening shows include Boss on Thursdays at 9pm and Vitelli on Fridays at 9.30pm. The camera’s “fashion hub” returns to new and emerging designers, such as the Graduate Runway Show and the Sustainable Fashion Awards event.
“Fashion is complicated. It’s a business, and at the same time it’s an art – it’s a cultural industry,” said Casasa. In Italy, that industry is asking for a little more time to share its abundance.
Production and export of fashion products made in Italy. In 2021, it reached more than 34 billion euros, up from 32.2 billion euros. Italy is also the source of many luxury goods: more than 80 percent of the French luxury conglomerate Caring’s supply chain, for example, is located in Italy. But increasingly, the world’s top source for the luxury industry is finding itself starved when it comes to showcasing its wares to fashion’s global buyers and editors.
“We don’t have enough days. That’s not my opinion, it’s how it is. At the moment, we’re sandwiched between New York and Paris fashion weeks, like London,” said Kapasa. “I would like to see New York start a little earlier in the future to allow us to start on Tuesday without losing any time in London. We would also have run until Tuesday instead of Monday, but our friends in Paris started doing shows that day. We are very cooperative and cooperative and we respect the international system, but We have to.
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