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This season, we’re breaking down the Fall/Winter 2023 collections with a new franchise The Fashion Week cheat sheet. After talking to designers about their inspirations, their hero pieces, the faces on the catwalk and the names on the front row, we bring you everything you need to know about AW23.
On the final day of New York Fashion Week, Michael Kors presented his Autumn/Winter 2023 collection, which he described as ‘urban bohemia’.
The designer showed the neighborhood of a teenager in Greenwich Village, and partly inspired this collection. course in He came of age in the 1970s, and when he sat down to design during this period, Gloria Steinem, who sits in the front row, was particularly influenced by the icons of this day.
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The collection was full of references to the seventies, and was designed to dress not just one generation, but different age groups, the now growing customer base.
“I’ve been doing this for a long time, we have three generations of customers, it’s unbelievable,” Kors said backstage this week. “We have different sizes and ages in the show – from teenagers to 50-year-olds, two sizes to 16 – and for me that’s the joy of being a designer, dressing this great group of women. Think of it as a trend. A trend where everyone dresses people of different ages and sizes. We should stop thinking that it is, it should never be a trend, it is part of our job.
Theme and inspiration.
“A global influencer means one thing in today’s world, but I was thinking about things coming of age in the 1970s. I was thinking about the women who influenced me, the neighborhood that influenced me, Greenwich Village. It was the perfect combination of big-city glamor and bohemia. It was urban bohemia.
Kors explains that he sees women who are attracted to him, “as strong, powerful and intelligent as they are, happy to believe that they enjoy fashion”. These women include his mother – whom he describes as “an athlete and a woman”, as well as Gloria Steinem (“a wonderful woman in every way”). They also named Yoko Ono, Tina Turner, Cher, Lena Horne, Jane Fonda, Allie McGraw and Aretha Franklin as women who fit this mold.
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The collection was clearly seventies inspired – lots of French, shaggy shearling coats, lots of suede, big shades, cute capes, Studio 54 inspired shorts, jumpsuits and tiny shorts, knee-high boots.
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One piece clearly stood out though, and that was the hip belt that spanned many outfits. “This belt is a very modern version of the Gloria image that I showed you 19 years ago, understated, modern style. I always believe in pieces that change your outfit, change your mood, change your balance.”
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And the coats were key: “My customers are big cities, that’s Tokyo, Shanghai, Milan, London. An urban wardrobe has to be a coat that stops traffic.”
“A friend of mine works at a hair salon on Park Avenue, and he said women wearing leggings should stop. I was like, ‘If you have to wear leggings, then wear a weird coat, if you have to.’ Put on a gym kit, a fancy coat – that’s who you are.
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Pieces of a hero
“Don’t ask me for a piece! To name a few key things though, definitely something with a pleat, a dress or skirt with movement, a bra, something that moves! A jumpsuit or pants you can slip into and cashmere, cashmere, cashmere.
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Who was there?
Gloria Steinem, Kate Hudson, Katie Holmes and Mindy Kaling sat opposite New York Governor Kathy Hochul, Lea Michele, Ellen Pompeo, Dahyun Kim, Feifei Wang, Isabelle Adjani, Beatrice Grano and Simona Tabasco.
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Meanwhile, Amber Valletta, Irina Shayk, Leah Kebede, Adut Akech and Vittoria Ceretti were some of the celebrities to walk the runway.
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Adoption trends
What could this collection mean for your wardrobe? If you dare, it might be time to re-embrace the low-slung ‘Gloria’ belt. Invest in cashmere coats, capes and Seventies touches – pants you can dance, swagger and dance in.
For more from New York Fashion Week and the Fall/Winter 2023 collections, head here.
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