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London Fashion Week A/W 2023 looks set to continue the city’s unique fusion of emerging talent and heritage names – the latter perhaps best represented at the most anticipated show of the season, ex-Botega Veneta creative director Daniel Lee on Monday night at Burberry. ‘I really want them to see the new vision and feel calm,’ he said earlier this year. ‘Like, “Oh, yes, that makes sense: this is what Burberry should be.
Elsewhere, expect a return to a normal work schedule after last season was disrupted by the death of Queen Elizabeth II and the official period of mourning that followed (several shows were canceled or rescheduled). These include JW Anderson (who will slot the final night of the season at 11pm on Sunday), Conner Ives, Christopher Kane, Simone Rocha, Nancy Dojaka, Molly Goddard, Roksanda and return to the London runway on Sunday night for Julian Macdonald. Moncler’s blockbuster Art of Genius hits town on Monday with a live show at London’s Olympia featuring collaborations with Alicia Keys, Pharrell Williams, Mercedes-Benz, Adidas Originals, Roc Nation by Jay-Z and more.
Here, the best of our ongoing London Fashion Week Fall 2023.
London Fashion Week 2023: The highlights
Molly Goddard
(Image credit: Courtesy of Molly Goddard)
Capturing the feel of Molly Goddard when she launched the brand in 2012, Molly Goddard opened her studio in East London’s Bethnal Green for a salon-style presentation of her A/W 2023 collection. When I was working in fashion, for me, I had to make my own clothes and find stockists,’ she explained. “Working in fashion now involves a lot of things I didn’t expect – events, award ceremonies, promotion, social media – it was nice to think about how easy it was to start and how it felt at the start.’ As such, Goddard browsed through old magazines with her sister and stylist Alice Goddard at Central Saint Martins library, reminiscing about the pieces she coveted and how they wore them as teenagers growing up in London. Leopard-print jeans we bought at Gap Kids in Whiteleys. [shopping centre]Screen-printed sports sweater from Portobello [market]The exposed popper belt we shared from Claire’s Accessories, all appeared in different iterations throughout the collection, albeit in Goddard’s vivid style. Her signature wide pattern (the designer is known for using yards of tulle in a single dress) was made for some moments of the collection, like a cerise-pink dress with a knife-sharp slit, from which delicate panels of red tulle emerged.
Connor Ives
(Image credit: Courtesy of Connor Ives)
Conner Ives wants to make people fall in love with fashion again, the designer told Wallpaper* as he prepared his A/W 2023 collection, during which he revealed a special inspiration from the 1999 Paul Thomas Anderson film. magnify. What I love about that movie is that it shows really incredible aspects of humanity…I think the idea of working with a bunch of archaeologists representing different ideas is Conner Ives’s cabin, which I don’t want to lose. She told Hannah Tyndale. As such, the collection itself – on display at London’s Old Selfridges Hotel – envisions archetypal images juxtaposed on the New York-born, London-based designer’s playful, colorful style of the 1990s and 2000s (which he is). Known for its commitment to sustainability, 70 percent of this season’s harvest comes from recycled second-hand wine). There was ‘The Glasto Girl’ (an ode to Kate Moss’s 2000s mud at the festival), ‘The Glasto Collection: Nan Kempner’ (referring to Nicholas Coleridge’s description of the Glasto Collection in his book). of Fashion plot) and ‘The Showgirl, Nomi Malone’ (‘It’s Conner Ives, not Versace!’ read the set notes). He made an emphatic offering for the young designer, an irreverent approach that feels like it captures the zeitgeist. ‘Fashion now feels like a business, not the escape it used to be,’ says Ives. It inspired me to pursue some gravity this season. I wanted him to feel me. [what I felt as a teenager]I wanted fashion mania.’
Fashion East
(Image credit: Permanent Grade)
Michael Stewart’s standing ovation served as the opening act for this year’s Fashion East with an impeccably crafted collection that featured signature sculptural eveningwear that debuted last season at the Talent Incubator. A focus on figure and form remains at the heart of the offering – ‘The history of art, both ancient and ancestral, is animated in work that emphasizes abstraction and presence,’ read the collection’s notes – through which sheer tones of velvet and satin are set. Long skirts, often tied with a twist at the waist. The introduction of a series of Donegal wool coats, wide at the waist, shows Stewart adding new depth to its offering, with tops, skirts and jumpsuits also introduced this season. The way the Irish designer covers his broad vision of history – inspiration comes, at once, from Paleolithic images to images from the 1500s or 1950s – brings maturity and purpose to these uniquely modern pieces. He is the one who cares.
Elsewhere, this season marked the debut of Estonian-born designer Johanna Parve, who was nominated for the 2023 LVMH Prize last week. Focusing on sportswear brings utilitarian moments — pullovers, flared legs, cyclewear-inspired second-skin tops, handbag-protecting skirts — to crisp, defined silhouettes and feminine moments (the designer says her approach is largely to traditional sportswear designs created on the male body). Caroline Vito, meanwhile, continued her sensual exploration of the female form in body-hugging garments, often with sculptural metal clasps evocative of modern jewelry. This season, the introduction of tailoring – albeit in a different asymmetrical style by the designer – added a new depth.
Harris Reid
(Image credit: Photograph by Mark Hibbert, courtesy of Harris Reed)
The power of dressing – a recurring theme in the work of American designer Harris Reid – underpins his A/W 2023 collection, as expressed by actress Florence Pugh in a monologue that opened the Tate Modern show in London. “Clothes have the power to change whether it’s for an actor or simply a participant on the stage of life…the art of dressing allows us to express our true selves,” she said, introducing the collection called “The Whole World”. Stage’ typically striking silhouettes – broad orb-shaped millinery, pannier-style pleats at the waist, ‘flipped’ fishtail skirts – define the theatrical ensemble, this time embellished with shimmering gold panels and metallic lamé with rich black velvet. Soft contrast.
of Wattev
(Image credit: Courtesy of Av Vatteev)
Bulgarian-born designer Antonio Vattev – who founded the iconic London-based label Av Vattev after stints at Saint Laurent and Lanvin – has titled his A/W 2023 collection ‘The Right to Observe’. Vattev has hinted in part at the idea of looking outside this season, drawing inspiration from his longtime admiration for artists Georgia O’Keefe and Christo. ‘[It] It’s a reflection of Antonio’s vision and lifestyle that goes hand in hand,’ says the campaign, which features high-profile fans of Watteau’s work, from British artists Corbin Shaw and Flora Miles to Grammy Award-winning musician Scribz Riley. The clothing itself recalls the visual immediacy of O’Keeffe’s and Christo’s work, here with graphic images and colorful immutable figures draped over the shoulders of the dress like O’Keefe’s leaves (Christo is referenced in a nylon raincoat, which echoes his dramatic draped forms). Something of Vattev’s signature, a nod to his Bulgarian roots, is seen throughout the country’s traditional embroidery.
Stay tuned for more from London Fashion Week A/W 2023.
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