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PARIS (AP) — A faint half-ton cube of colored confetti lay on the white runway at Loewe during Paris Fashion Week. Ushers tried hard to guide the guests, including Jamie Dornan, Naomi Campbell and Catherine O’Hara. Sometimes, he did partially.
Jonathan Anderson’s own highly creative show – which used feathers and satin and velvet – continued the theme of minimalism and contemporary sensibilities.
Here are some highlights from the fall-winter 2023-2024 ready-to-wear shows in Paris.
LOEWE reigns supreme For fall, the brand’s acclaimed Northern Irish designer continues to explore pared-down and minimalistic styles — a garment that often carries the entire look.
As Lowe puts it, “the idea of elementalities: one piece, and that’s it, reduced to the clearest form possible.
As seen in Anderson’s men’s collection, the touchstone of the Old Master painters is felt here again with leather Renaissance boots and the use of satin, silk duchess, velvet, crystals and feathers.
The feather pieces of the pastel-rich collection were very original: the pipes were unusually wide and placed on clothes like shells. There are some feathers sticking out randomly on the buttery white top, or the thick texture of the blue-gray colored pants that evoke an anthropomorphic bird.
A pale blue dress looks like a length of satin draped simply from a large golden ball across the chest. Elsewhere, the idea that fashion, or life itself, is fleeting and ever-moving is conveyed through prints on delicate gowns that sometimes look like X-rays.
According to the house, they were “to focus on something that seems unclear at the moment.” Lowe’s is clearly one of the most anticipated collections in the industry under Anderson’s creative eye.
Color Blocking At Paris Fashion Week, Loewe collaborated with Italian artist Lara Favaretto to create authentic color blocks in the first color blocking show. Twenty-one confetti cubes 90 centimeters (35 inches) high and in deep reds, blues, yellows and greens dazzled the guests.
O’Hara, who watched the show alongside US Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, exclaimed, “Whoah, look blue” as one guest escaped security to pose with a cube.
“I was hoping someone would dissolve her in the show, because there’s nothing for them to do,” O’Hara told The Associated Press. “Isn’t it crazy?” O’Hara said Anderson’s designs featured “totally original ideas, fresh, without being new for a new use.”
“They were very unusual shapes and forms, but still beautiful,” she added.
Issei Miyake Square’s fusion of music, dance and theater was expected in Japan’s techno-textile-loving home.
A live marimba performance opened the show at the Chatelet Theater, one of Paris’ most famous stages. The show takes the idea that a musical score, or a canvas, or a piece of fabric is square – and explores this theme of squareness.
“The collection engages with this rational form … to create clothes of amazing shapes,” the house explained. The beauty, he says, lies in the “new iteration” of the unfilled space.
Three-dimensional “tana” dresses folded like paper origami. Square motifs are interlaced horizontally and vertically – striking an elongated lozenge shape with a high front on a stretchy green gown. The innovative look includes dresses made with cutting-edge technology to narrow the woven thread into a unique texture.
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