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As shown in March 2023 Wallpaper Style Edition*we meet six rising stars – including Act No. 1, featured here – tearing up the Milanese fashion scene with renewed energy and creative spirit.
Fashion designers Ghalib Gasanoff and Luca Lin may seem unlikely on the surface, given their respective Azerbaijani and Chinese heritages, but their shared values and natural heritage have given birth to one of S/S 2023’s hottest Italian fashion labels. Act No. 1 draws from each designer’s multicultural background and personal history to convey the early years and childhood of its founders. Focused on highlighting inclusivity, social issues and human rights around the world, the label is decorated with a love for historical themes as well as its dramatic hybrids, often with two separate pieces glued together or seemingly harmonized. of tulle.
Born and raised in Reggio Emilia, Italy, Lynne is ‘about combining elements from art, craft, prints, antiques with a new perspective and way of dressing’, says the number 1 aesthetic. It mixes memories and new techniques for new creative codes. Returning themes are large volumes, traditional Chinese prints, floral motifs from ancient paintings and oversized shirts creating a tulle look.’
Lin met Gasanoff when they were both fashion students in Milan. In the year ‘I believe we had the same ideas about fashion and style,’ he said of their decision to join forces in 2016. The fashion industry is full of many things. [and] Valid values are missing. We believe that being true to your roots and upbringing means you can produce items with soul in an industry full of beautiful, but often empty objects.’
For their latest S/S23 collection, Lin and Gasanoff used the dramatic masks and themes of traditional Chinese opera to reflect on the search for inner identity. From distressed denim pieces, tulle bomber jackets and fluid silks to unique swinging opera motifs and delicate landscapes that transcend gender norms, the dynamic collection made a compelling case for bridging the old and the new.
Like the sartorial hybrids it creates, Act No. 1 doesn’t seek to resolve its fundamental differences seamlessly, but rather allows its different aspects to exist within the composite. “We embrace differences and push them to the limit to improve,” Lin said. The world is a big family and we never lose sight of inclusion in the spirit of the brand.’
Models: Katie Johnson in Model 1, Wilfred and Adeline in Xdirectn, Alexander Carey-Morgan in Tomorrow’s Another Day. Casting: Svea Casting Hair: Tosh at Streeters. Makeup: Jimmy Owen Jones by Julian Watson Agency using Dior Forever Foundation and Capture Totale Super Potent Serum. Manicure: Cherrie Snow Set Design: Lizzy Gilbert. Photographic assistants: Max Glashofer, Benedict Moore. Fashion Assistant: Stoyan Chuchuranov. Editing Assistant: Aliou Janha Hair Assistant: Leanne Millar.
A version of this story appears in March 2023 Wallpaper Style Edition* (Opens in a new tab)(Opens in a new tab)available now in print, in the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and for Apple News+ subscribers. Sign up for wallpaper* today (Opens in a new tab)
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