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Key West, Fla., has a laid-back vibe that is loved by residents and tourists alike. (Photo by Amy Bentley)
Forty-one years ago, on April 23, 1982, a Florida Keys border patrol search for drugs and undocumented immigrants led to the birth of the Conch Republic. The disgruntled Key residents left the union protesting against being treated as foreigners and large-scale traffic congestion.
Today, the city of Key West has made this event an annual week-long celebration celebrating the birth of the Conch Republic. While the Conch Republic may never be recognized as a real country, it still exists as a state of mind, representing Key West’s offbeat, unconventional nature where locals enjoy a no-nonsense lifestyle supported by a healthy tourist industry. Tourists also enjoy this retro vibe. You can walk the streets of Key West with alcohol and no one will mind as long as it’s in a can or plastic cup (no glass, please).
Key West was once used as a base for operations against pirates. In the 1800s, the town enjoyed thriving salt production, fishing and shipwreck salvage industries. It’s a more attractive, colorful place than ever before. In the historic district, beautiful antique log homes feature intricate gingerbread trim, louvered siding, and covered porches painted in pastel shades and surrounded by lush foliage.
Adding to the charm of Key West are the wild chickens and roosters that roam the town, blocking traffic and roaming the open-air restaurants and neighborhoods as if they own the place. Early inhabitants of Cuba and the Caribbean are believed to be descendants of backyard chickens that were brought in for eggs and released when cockfighting was outlawed. These birds take good care of themselves and have been roaming Key West for years. With noisy roosters, fascinating history, bright blue skies and waters, and plenty of outdoor shops and restaurants, it’s easy to see why Key West’s charm has endured over the decades.
The scenic Overseas Highway offers visitors views of the water as they drive through Key West. You can rent kayaks at Bahia Honda State Park in the Middle Keys or visit Loi Kee National Marine Sanctuary. Snorkeling, fishing, kayaking, sailing, jet skiing, and eco-tours are popular in the Keys. Key West celebrates African/Bahamian and Cuban heritage, and has a vibrant LGBTQ+ community.
My husband and I traveled to Key West in late April while the 2023 Conch Republic Annual Independence Week celebration was underway. We stayed at Heron House Court, one of the many bed and breakfasts in the historic district, which are actually restored historic homes. Key West is mostly pedestrianized and there is no shortage of parking, so we parked our cars and walked or took taxis everywhere.
The best way to get around is on the Conch Guided Train, which brings you all the fun places in Key West. The driver explains the colorful history of Key West, including author Ernest Hemingway and President Harry S. Hemingway’s stay on the island. Truman history, including ship salvage “destroyers” and Henry Flagler’s famous Keys Railroad. The tour features some charming, pastel-colored historic “conch” houses.
Among the many historic sites and museums to visit: the Audubon House and Tropical Gardens; Custom House, Museum of Art and History; Hemingway’s House; Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park; Harry S. Truman’s Little White House; Key West Aquarium; Butterfly and Nature Conservatory; The Lighthouse Museum; Shipwreck Treasures Museum; and a tropical forest and botanical garden. For shopping, Mallory Square has many unique open-air shops.
Another interesting site is Fort Jefferson, built on a small island about 70 miles off the coast of Key West and now a major tourist attraction in Dry Tortugas National Park. The easiest way to get to this massive brick fort is via the Yankee Freedom Boat or seaplane. My husband and I did this tour on our first trip to Key West a few years ago. Fort Jefferson was strategically built to protect shipping in the waters off the coast of Florida, which at the time was one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes.
In the hands of the enemy, it was believed that the islands in the Dry Tortugas could be a place from which America’s enemies could attack us along the Gulf Coast. Fort Jefferson, built between 1846 and 1975, was never finished or fully equipped. It was never attacked, but soldiers camped in difficult conditions for years. During and after the Civil War it served as a prison for convicts and Union draftees. Visitors can see gun stations and prison rooms while learning how the fort was maintained.
We spent a morning on this trip cruising with Fury, one of the many companies operating in the Keys. A motorized catamaran took us to two different spots on Key West Reef for a three-hour cruise in the clear water.
No visit to Key West is complete with the famous (or infamous) Duval Street, several blocks of outdoor bars and restaurants, art galleries and souvenir shops. Duval Street is well-known for its lively nightlife and is home to many of the Conch Republic’s annual celebrations, including a parade. If you’re a fan of Duval Street, that’s where you’ll find Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville Cafe and Retail Store.
Finally, don’t forget to take a selfie at the iconic southernmost point, but you might have to wait in line for the surprise one.
If you go
Getting to Key West: Southern California residents can either fly into Miami and drive a rental car to Key West or fly into Key West International Airport. Check the airlines for the flight. The Florida Keys Marathon Airport handles charter flights and private jets. Several bus companies offer bus service to Key West from the Miami and Fort Lauderdale airports, including Greyhound, FlixBus and Keys Shuttle. Check their website for route, price and schedule information.
Learn more about the history of the Republic of Conch: conchrepublic.com/our-founding-in-1982
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