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The return of Gucci and Saint Laurent to Milan, Martin Rose at Pitti and Emilie (Bode) in Paris: January’s menswear schedules are running bright and exciting.
The season kicks off at the PTT trade show in Florence on January 10, before moving to Milan three days later. It ends in Paris on January 22, with the Maison Margiela menswear show, John Galliano’s first in four years. Scheduled for 8 p.m., it’s designed to keep menswear editors in town until the end and attract those arriving for the start of Couture Week on January 23.
PT, Milan and Paris continue to draw key designers from the US and UK, thanks in part to the decline of the menswear schedule in New York and London, where the focus on menswear has always seemed secondary to womenswear. In addition to current PT guest designer Martine Rose, these include Charles Geoffrey Loverboy making her live debut in Milan and JW Anderson returning, as well as renowned American designer Emily Adams Bode making her Paris debut. Show since the outbreak. Rhude, Amiri, Bianca Saunders and Samuel Ross (who hosts a presentation for A-Cold-Wall) will also return. And Grace Wells Bonner will perform live in Paris for the first time.
The two most anticipated shows of the season, however, will see the menswear powerhouses of Italy and France return to their home turf in very different circumstances. It will be eight years since the then-unknown (and unconfirmed creative director) Alessandro Michele gave his first show for the house on January 13th at 2pm. . Now that Gucci is once again among the creative captains, the audience will be in a similar position to find the author of the next chapter. Once in Paris, the same audience will be waiting to see a new designer at Louis Vuitton, who has yet to name Virgil Abloh’s successor.
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