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Humberto Leon is no stranger to pivots. Known for his work at Opening Ceremony and Kenzo, in 2020 he and his family opened Chifan, an LA restaurant serving Chinese, Peruvian and Taiwanese cuisine. Now, with the opening of the Empire, everyone is turning their attention to Hong Kong.
Located in the San Gabriel Valley, Monarch is an ode to modern and traditional Hong Kong. Like Chifa, Leon’s mother, “Popo” Wendy Leon, lived in Hong Kong in her late 20s and brought the city’s cuisine with her when she moved to Peru and then the Los Angeles area. Here, Leon’s son-in-law, John Liu, is tasked with translating that history into Monarch’s menu, adding dishes from his own Taiwanese background.
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“I think the beauty of Hong Kong,” Leon B Los Angeles Times“It almost has its own cuisine rather than Cantonese, because of the diversity of the past.” [the city]He said.
The menu features items like sweet and sour pork in a delicious sauce that Leon and his sister Rika grew up eating. A Chinese-influenced steak tartare is served with iceberg cabbage and chili with shrimp chips, while a silky steamed egg comes with fish liver. The most delicious dishes include the ragu with pork stewed over fresh egg noodles and the braised lamb in tomato curry.
The new restaurant is definitely talking to Chifa, drawing the same design items and even some menu items. Chifa is known for his collaborations with artists, and the Trinity Shrimp Fried Rice he collaborated with Solange will be a permanent fixture on the royal menu.
Drink-wise, Liu and Rika’s son Jarrod Wang has been creating the cocktail program, which includes alcoholic and non-alcoholic options, in collaboration with LA-based Optimist Botany. Coffee is brewed with hand-roasted beans, and several different types of tea are offered: oolong, pu-erh, and flower-bud teas.
“We definitely take our tea very seriously, but in a fun way,” Leon said LA Times. “Sometimes I feel that strong tea can be too strong; we’re not trying to give you a three-hour tea service, just a delicious cuppa.”
Given Leon’s design background, the restaurant will also have some beautiful products alongside its food offerings. You can find Monarch brand t-shirts, hats, totes, metal lunch box, water bottle, portable cooler/folding chair and stickers. Some items are decorated with butterfly motifs in the area, while others call the San Gabriel Valley to the area.
That hometown pride may be the most important part for Leon and why he returned to the city to become a local restaurateur with his family.
Monarch, opening January 14, serves dinner Friday through Sunday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. He plans to expand to lunch and more days of service.
Click here to see all photos of the King.
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