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Miu Miu’s Micro Mini isn’t the only icon of the Y2K renaissance. Along with the release of flip phones, chainmail tops and the return of inch-thick lipgloss, another ubiquitous sign of novelty has reared its attractive red and white head.
Over the past couple of years, we’ve seen mushrooms popping up everywhere, from Rodarte’s shroom-print slip dresses, Bella Hadid’s Frasier Sterling Magic mushroom earrings and Savetti and Jhene Aiko’s fairytale-toadstool wonderland ‘Back to the Streets’ video, to Alexander McQueen’s mushroom-themed Sarah Burton AW22 See them in a collection of neon sweaters. Obsession is real.
More than just a motif, though, shroom culture has evolved into something bigger in 2022, with fungi now pushing their little umbrellas across popular culture. Ravers are pushing the amphetamines and turning to the mushies for a night of nightmarish highs. We’re micro-dosing before meetings and giving out little liberty cups as party favors.
She also attracted some very popular disciples in the art world, starting with photographer Phyllis Ma. Mushrooms and friends Zin. Meanwhile, Giancarlo Mattioli’s original ‘Nesso’ toadstool-shaped lamps are suddenly fetching thousands of pounds on eBay. Harry Styles even gave them a whole collection in his Pleasing cosmetics line.
So what caused the mushroom transformation? Exploring their positive effects on brain health and books like Merlin Sheldrake’s Intertwined life, which makes complex science easily digestible, has informed us of many of their superpowers. And that, combined with the widespread safety and sustainability zeitgeist, led to cultural deification. Beyond all the glamorous psychedelia, we’re beginning to understand that mushrooms—and the underground mycelial network in which fungi fruit above ground—may hold the key to our future.
As well as drinking adaptogen tea and swapping chanterelles for charcuterie boards, in the world of fashion, we are looking for mushroom technology to change the industry’s relationship with the planet. According to Stella McCartney, mushroom fabrics, ‘ultimately have the potential to replace traditional leather… and the future of our planet.’
McCartney, who has been investing in mycelium since 2016, dropped her Hermes handbag on the heels of her first mushroom-made handbag this June. And although Sarah Burton hasn’t yet made the switch to this earthier alternative to ranching, she says she intends to. Mushrooms are creeping into our lives like a 1969 party, lighting up our insides and improving our mental health, and it feels like fate that they’ve entered the once-impenetrable luxury market.
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