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The Emmy Awards will take place on September 12, and the TV Academy has teamed up with the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising (FIDM) Museum for its annual “Costume Design on Television” show. It highlights more than 20 iconic performances, including the stunning Regency-era gowns featured in Netflix’s “Bridgerton” and Amazon’s mid-century “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel.”
FIDM Fashion Design Chair Nick Veres takes the audience through the exhibition.
How has screen size affected the way designers approach selling television?
[Many people] Watch the shows on a small iPhone, and often you really have to focus on the power of color [and] The power of texture.
I think the more important thing right now is that he shoots three quarters. You don’t know exactly what the cameraman will bring up, so costume designers should think more about small details: lapels, jewelry and hats.
What has also changed is the quality of film and TV. It’s getting sharper. In the past, there were many rules about colors that you could not use, and many of them are now out the door.
What costumes are on display from “Bridgerton”?
The costume designer for Netflix’s “Bridgerton” incorporated period references into the show, like this one in the fur hunting outfit worn by Kate Sharma’s character. Photo by Benjamin Schmickler/ABImages, courtesy of FIDM Museum.
A lot has been said about the costumes on the show and whether or not they are period correct. As the show’s costume designer explained in an interview… there is a real foundation for the season. [show’s] Clothing and designs, but she likes to add contemporary aspects.
A lot of fabric… it’s time for this. … for example, [the show features] Sharma family of Indian origin. Costume designers want to make sure they pay homage to their Indian heritage in Regency-style period costumes. So you will see that in gold, tin and jewel colors as well as using a lot of embroidery in lapis.
We have on display a great hunting outfit worn by Kate Sharma. It is a deep teal color and woolen dress. But it has an intricate embroidery that is a slight nod to its Indian heritage.
We also got Queen Charlotte’s dress. For the first ball she wore a big wig, a green and pink ball gown with a necklace and tiara – very Marie Antoinette-like.
What is seen from “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel”?
The glittery costumes worn by burlesque dancers in the latest season of Amazon’s “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel” are on display at the FIDM Museum’s costume design art exhibit. Photo by Benjamin Schmickler/ABImages, courtesy of FIDM Museum.
Many people may not know that the show moved back to the early 1960s. When we think about early 1960s fashion, it’s still very 1950s. Depending on the fashion, there is a rule of thumb as to when you define a decade, and it’s usually after the middle of the decade. So the shapes are still very 1950s.
You have that fitted figure, but the costume designer wanted to include a little boxy shape. In the year Big hats were in vogue in the early 1960s, and one was featured spectacularly at an exhibition worn by Midge’s mother.
We also have some very dangerous but fantastic costumes, and they are from the spare room. The costume designer had to design costumes for all the bur dancers, and so we have two. Pom-pom is one such display.
How difficult is it for designers to create something as effortless as Grace’s costumes on display?Grace and Frankie?
The timeless outfit worn by Jane Fonda’s character Grace in the Netflix series “Grace and Frankie” represents the “West Coast version of the Upper West Side,” said FIDM Fashion Design Chair Nick Verres. Photo by Benjamin Schmickler/ABImages, courtesy of FIDM Museum.
I think that’s the job. Many times people say that the costume designer and his team have done their job if they don’t notice the costumes in a television show, especially a modern one. If it looks like part of the character, it’s time the costume designer did their job right.
I think for “Grace and Frankie”, the costume designer does a great job of portraying… “old man style”, but it really describes the characters of “Grace and Frankie”.
We have Lily Tomlin as Frankie, a more bohemian, arch character and then Jane Fonda as Grace. She’s gorgeous and she embodies the air of Malibu-Belle – the West Coast version of the Upper West Side.
From “What are the main thingsEuphoria?
The bold blue power suit worn by Fez’s grandmother in “Euphoria” was created by New York seamstress Amber Doyle. Photo by Benjamin Schmickler/ABImages, courtesy of FIDM Museum.
Heidi Bivens is a clothing designer, and she’s definitely from the fashion world. She likes to create character images with clothes, and you can see that in “Euphoria.”
You see what Zendaya wears on the show, and it’s very casual…but with it, she’s wearing a vintage Gaultier vest that the costume designer found.
There’s a gorgeous blue dress worn by Fez’s drug-dealing grandmother, and that’s made by a New York seamstress by the name of Amber Doyle. It’s great.
How do the dresses worn by Cassie and Maddie from “Euphoria” reflect their personalities and their relationship with each other?
The costume designer for the popular HBO show “Euphoria” likes to create character portraits through the outfits worn by two characters, Maddy and Cassie. Photo by Benjamin Schmickler/ABImages, courtesy of FIDM Museum.
The Cassie one – I call it the Daisy Duke outfit – is part of her transformation or “Maddie novel”. She’s trying to look sexier, and so the fashion is trying to convey that to the audience and her classmates.
Then there’s Maddie with her uber sexy black cut out dress. Everyone on the internet was looking for that dress. It actually comes from a clothing line called AKNA. It’s all about conveying who you want to be in fashion. That’s a very important thing, especially for this younger generation. The characters and this age bracket [are all] About owning your body, being comfortable with it and comfortable with fashion.
What makes the dress stand out?Angeline” Special?
The Peacock series features Angeline, the eponymous LA icon, dressed in oversized pink clothes and carrying a chicken-shaped bag. Photo by Benjamin Schmickler/ABImages, courtesy of FIDM Museum.
Chicken bag, pink, fox fur jacket. Angelyne is like a model.
The costume designer had to customize every outfit for that series because it’s a very difficult body shape, but it’s all about the rose. They think of pink, and they think of it as a child’s color, but she wanted to own it and make it sexual.
I also thought it was amazing that the costume designer’s wardrobe team had to create different breastplates and different types of body prosthetics for Angeline over the years. I thought it was a great look, and should definitely be on a big billboard.
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