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Fashion designer Daniel Calmyer and I arrived at the same time for the planned magnification interview. Immediately, our videos focused on two amazing similar images. Here were two women wearing oversized white glasses and black glasses with our hair pulled back. “You are not allowed to wear Jeff Goldball glasses and a white shirt,” she laughs.
This, according to Calmer, is basically her everyday uniform. “I am often black or [blue] Four size jeans for me is a big and white bottom key. She wears her hair cut short, with no makeup behind her ears. Although she has a well-developed personal uniform, the designer has at least used her skills to break the face of a uniform in the form of ready-made women’s clothing.
When Calmeyer, 36, entered the fashion industry in the early 2000’s, the classroom became more rigid. There were work clothes and then regular clothes. There were women’s clothing and men’s clothing. I was on a mission to create a clear picture of the gray area in the market.
“I was going out in New York as a woman. Of course, I have not yet decided what this means for myself, or for my choice, my writing style, or anything else. ” Caller never loves fashion as an industry. But she loved to see the power of changing clothes as a personal strategy.
Fashion designer Daniela Calmeyer.
Photo: Austin Sandhaus
The designer’s beautiful and wonderful grandmother first helped her realize that she loved her personal statement. “I don’t think I understand fashion as an industry as I understand it now, but it was. [about] Your own approach, ”said Calmeier.
As a child in the music theater, she looked for opportunities to collect what she needed from high school. With the help of a compassionate art teacher, Caller designed her own fashion curriculum and finished it at her graduation party. From there, the novice designer enrolled in Syracuse — a reasonable step for a South African refugee (and the son of two South African immigrants) — but quickly moved to London Fashion College.
Her time was right. Under the pressure of designer and founder Lee McKuein, McQueen began as an assistant to Alexander McQueen as he launched McQueen to a young audience. “I remember shaking my head during the review,” she said, widening her eyes. Caller had a hand-painted bleach on a denim in the form of an X-ray bird skeleton.
After Calmeyer’s grandfather became ill, Calmeyer returned to New York in 2008. In the middle of the fall. She has worked on Reenza Schiller, Alice and Olivia, Luca Luca and Jane Kao. “I felt that I had no choice in the matter,” she says. So, according to Calmyer, she began her own identity at least 11 years ago when she was 25 years old.
“I don’t always feel feminine, but I am pushing and pulling the boundaries that I want to respect my strength, not to respect my femininity and to be very masculine,” explains Calmeyer. The young designer built her name on a different basis. She sewed it in the form of a sewing machine.
Daniella Kallmeyer Resort ’23.
Photo: Austin Sandhaus
Daniella Kallmeyer Resort ’23.
Photo: Austin Sandhaus
“I think there is a way for people to wear wool, regardless of their gender,” says Calmeier. For this fashion saver, the tops of Sutu’s architecture are the shoulders and waist. These are the aspects that are controlled by the designer. The combination of gravity and human shape then determines how the fabric will fall. “I’m thinking of creating a skeleton-like structure that your body carries,” she said. “It’s like a weapon,” she said, referring to old images of St. Laurent and Helmut Lang— “I can’t help but think about them.” At the time, we had never seen women like this before.
Caller has since developed the philosophy of three-piece clothing as a brand signature. “A group of black women were coming to the store looking for something to wear. I remember wanting to expand on that category. ” It was there that West (the third piece) came into play: it was introduced before the fashion world became obsessed with them. Both caller jackets and pants are often over-stretched. A bodice-like vest with a hat at the back gives a more feminine look.
The closeness of the sewing is poetic. “In one way or another, I like him,” she says. “There are a lot of illustrations associated with that style of dress. [I love] In this way, the choreography of dressing in layers and [the idea of] It’s closed. ” “Thank you Diane Kiton.”
New York may be more concerned with its trousers than with the boat. “I am always on a mission for this ‘perfect’. Perfect pants, perfect dress, perfect, no matter what. Suitable pants are simple but carefully cut – and almost always have pockets.
She laughs, saying that this perfect mix is intended for “lesbians and everyone’s clothes.” “I wanted people to feel fresh and sexy. And they are not opposed or boring or contrary to nature. But that dress is just a small part of her supply. Her current collection includes a full white cotton dress, slim knit polo and wide-leg jeans.
The clothes are neutral, but they are not as well as Neutral. “At first I thought I was constantly building core Wardrobe, and then somehow I was adding flavor to it,” she says. “If we stay on that theme, it’s like decorating. A beautiful pasta bowl with olive oil is simple and adequate. But no one wants BJ food. So you spray the top or some other green.
Calimer Orchard Street Store.
Photo: Quinton Mulvey
Calmeyer’s designer’s goal changed when she opened Orchard Street in 2019. Dress ready to wear. Customers are often surprised to learn that Calmer may be the one who sews and sews.
At first, it seemed too far away for the growing New York label. Kallmeyer sneaked into a pop-up shop and refused to leave. “I thought I was single. I have no supporters. I don’t have rich parents. I have no savings. But I know in my heart that this will work and that it will work on my grandmother’s grave. “And give me a lease”
In the store, Calmeyer, who spends many days on the ground, knows her customers. Calmer consumers are now trying to get dressed, asking questions and putting their lives in front of the designer.
Speaking about her relationship with various clients, she said that women come with conditional questions. What should I wear one day? How do I dress for a job interview? After spending about an hour debating gender structures in fashion, I was curious to find out how she responded to those two questions.
“I can show her some other clothes, but she is no different,” she says. “Because what is sex? Sex is just being in your power. And what’s the best dress for an interview? It’s about being in your power.”
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