Fall/Winter 2023’s most watched shows on the Vogue Runway

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Fashion loves first class. Even in this day and age, when the game of designer musical chairs seems never-ending, new beginnings attract attention. The Fall/Winter 2023 runway has given audiences three firsts. In Paris, Harris Reid and Ludovic de Saint-Cernin presented their launch collections for Nina Ricci and Anne de Millemeester respectively, but Daniel Lee’s shot across the Burberry bow. Vogue RunwayMost Viewed Shows. It’s not hard to imagine why: the British heritage brand has more brand recognition than Richie or Demeulemeester, and Lee started his career at Bottega Veneta, where he produced a number of hits, from satchels to poodle boots. . Will Burberry’s new creative director keep the industry’s attention? It’s a September question.

Then the absence of a designer in a high position can create its own narrative. In January, Gucci appointed Sabato de Sarno (currently at Valentino) to fill the role left vacant when Alessandro Michele abruptly left the brand late last year. The fall collection was designed by the in-house team in anticipation of his arrival, and although it doesn’t have the auteur’s stamp that Michele’s collections carry, it still makes it to number five on our list. The post-show storm tug-of-war between “establishment” media and “influencers” sparked some online interest, but the real secret is a mashup of eras and references (from Tom Ford to Michelle) that will appeal to Gen Z’s digital natives. .

Speaking of which, Jen-Z’s irreverent, mostly pantsless ensemble, featuring model Zaya Wade and actresses Emma Corinne and Mia Goth, helped Miu Miu make her first appearance on this list — too much to wear with each other. It looks like the designer is talking! Miuccia Prada had a great season; Miu Miu came in at number four, and Prada at three. On the anniversary of the invasion of Ukraine, she and fellow entrepreneur Raf Simons argued that the solution was not war, but love. Their tender Prada collection elevated humble service dresses and borrowed from wedding lingo.

A year ago, Demna Balenciaga’s collection addressed the war in Ukraine, but after a pair of advertising scandals rocked the Kering-owned brand, it refocused on making clothes, not eyewear. The most anticipated show of the season, it showcased his tailoring skills in earnest – his four-legged pants were amazing in their movements – and his ability to update the house’s founding code in the form of an inflatable motorcycle. Cristobal’s cocoons or jackets that modernize 1960s couturier silhouettes with a 21st century technical interpretation of Cristobal’s cocoons or round shoulder embellished jackets. Balenciaga is number seven on our list. See how the rest of the top 10 shook out.

1. Burberry, level last season: new entry

Photo: Gareth Cattermole / Getty Images

Photo: Acielle/Styledumonde

3. Prada, last season’s rating: 7

Photo: Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

4. Miu Miu, level last season: new entry

Photo: Acielle/Styledumonde

5. Gucci, level last season: new entry

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Photo: Courtesy of Saint Laurent

7. Balenciaga, last season’s ranking: 5

Photo: Acielle/Styledumonde

8. Chanel, last season’s ranking: 3

Photo: Acielle/Styledumonde

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

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