Diesel Spring 2023 Milan Fashion Week review

Thousands of guests attended the Diesel Spring 2023 show in Milan. In fact, 3,000 tickets were given away to the public. Creative director Glenn Martens has become one of the designers breaking down the barriers of the traditional fashion industry, and he has done just that, once again for the brand’s Spring 2023 season.

The show took place in a room filled with huge, vaguely sexy sculptures and opened with a denim look: a bra top, an oversized skirt, cropped jeans, a ruched maxi dress, distressed hot pants, a baggy trench coat and a structured corset. Influenced by his work on the Y/Project, where Martens dives deep into the material, the designer has made it clear that Diesel is a ship that plays with any type of denim and how they know those concepts. Interacting with Diesel records. “How can we reinvent denim or what can we do with denim [that’s] Unexpected? He said. W In April. “How do we twist? How can I conceptualize the way our denim is known?”

From skinny denim bomber jackets to tiny denim tube tops, Spring 2023 was a character study through jeans at Milan Fashion Week. There really was something for everyone, and many of the looks felt like they tapped into the expressive subcultures that are now growing online and in the real world. We even see a Y2K fan, Whimsigot Girl (disappearing in an ombre dance dress), and Gorpcorn Man in all his glory.

At the end of each episode, we can see Martens going through a luxury denim search. Long and jean jackets covered with grainy, wood-like textures; The cargo pants had a chiffon lining on top. The edgy, distressed ends that looked like faux-fur trim were divine. We’ve seen all of this, of course, but under Martens’ eye it felt a different direction and a much better performance.

Beyond the denim were leather jackets, silky cargo pants, printed jersey maxi dresses and dresses and skirts with neon lace inserts. The collection had a special joy when Martens experimented with colors that touched on the sunset: neon-orange sweaters paired with metallic pink skirts, for example; Or flared tangerine denim ensembles.

At the Diesel show in Milan last season, we saw the brand’s 1 DR bag worn by everyone from Kylie Jenner to Julia Fox (who sat front row again this season). Spring 2023 didn’t feel like it had one particular “it” item, but its outerwear and range were particularly strong.

Apart from inviting the public to the show, unusual in the post-Covid world of intimate presentations, Martens’ expression at Denim Telegraph is a remarkable message of democracy in fashion. This is a designer who often takes inspiration from the metro, after all. “I feel that denim is a very democratic material,” he said. “You can wear it with high heels, you can go to a cocktail party, you can go bold.”