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The London-based Victoria and Albert Museum (formerly known as the V&A) exhibition on African fashion, the world’s largest application of art, jewelry and design, created 170 years ago, is trying to solve the colonial era.
The magnificent exhibition “Africa Fashion” showcases items from the continent, including designs, textiles, photographs and films – from the 1950s to the 1980s, exploring the design of African independence years, as well as future designers.
“The purpose of the show is to give a hint about the attractiveness and politics of the fashion scene,” the project’s director, Elizabeth Murray, told AFP. “Today we want to celebrate the amazing African fashion scene. So look at the creativity and inspiration of all the designers, stylists, photographers.”
Leading Christine Chassinska called the exhibition “part of the ongoing preparations for V&A’s ongoing African heritage innovations.”
A.D. The history of the V&A Museum, founded in 1852, is closely linked to colonialism, as some of its collections were established at that time, including Queen Victoria’s international empire – Africa.
Asian collections, for example, include exhibitions at the Indian Museum in 1801 by an Indian company.
Most of the costumes on display came from the personal archives of famous African designers in the mid-20th century
Kurat Chechinska, a women’s fashion designer and art historian, says African art and culture have long been neglected or mistaken in the museum. “This is because of our colonial roots and racist assumptions,” she said, “because of the historical division between art museums and ethnic museums.”
“African Fashion” is opening up new perspectives for the museum and is a test platform for “new ways of fair cooperation,” she said.
African fashion is political.
The exhibition is divided into several sections – “Afropia”, “Cut-Edge” and “Mixed”. The sections cover topics such as sustainability, gender, race, gender identity or politics.
The first section highlights the “African Cultural Renaissance” protest posters and articles of the African Freedom Movement. They appear in the context of fashion at the time.
A.D. Ghanaian Prime Minister Kwame Nkrumah, who declared the country’s independence in 1957, has always had a political affiliation in Africa, the first black African colonies to do so. He also sold European costumes for traditional smoking, made of colorful Kentu cloth.
Kwame Nkrumah In 1957, Ghana was liberated from Britain.
Textiles play a big role in the exhibition. Ghanaian sculptor El Anatsu once said: “Textiles are a monument to Africans and Westerners.”
African fabrics are unique
The centerpiece of the exhibition is “The Vanguard” featuring the works of modern African design pioneers.
Alfadi from Niger, Shad Thomas-Fahm from Nigeria and Kofi Ansah from Ghana. They experimented with African textiles and styles, such as bidding, and created new designs with transcendental influences.
Thomas-Fahm’s designs, for example, re-invented African costumes for “cosmopolitan, working woman.”
Nigerian designer Shad Thomas-Fahm (born 1933) is one of the pioneers of modern African fashion.
Another highlight of “African Fashion” is Moroccan designer Arsi’s custom design inspired by the British Boy Coat and the Muslim Hijab. “The design is to raise questions about how to present Africa in the UK,” Arsi told Agence France-Presse.
These are questions that are really about “African fashion”. The history of British colonialism needs to inspire contemporary art.
“Africa Fashion” is on display at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London until April 16, 2023.
This article was originally written in German.
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