A travel writer’s guide to eating your way through Lisbon

Europe is a fun place to visit as a fat person – but that shouldn’t stop you and it certainly didn’t stop me. My sister Sore and I recently took a sister trip that included ten days, three countries, and tons of amazing experiences and restaurants.

On my trip, I counted exactly 19 visibly plus-sized people on my trip, only one of whom was taller than me. But that still didn’t stop me. I wore a few different bikinis, went hiking, and even got a massage at a five-star spa.

All in all, this trip is one we’ll be talking about for decades to come, full of great things to do. So, join me as we visit Lisbon.

Lisbon

I’ve been to seven European countries, and Portugal stands out as the country with the best food overall. The food was next-level good, whether we ate traditionally prepared salted fish and pastel de nata (custard tarts), fusion cuisine combining Japanese and Portuguese flavors, or dishes made entirely from local ingredients. The city’s airport was small, it was done before the influx of tourists entered the country, it was a bit of a hassle when they got in, but not much trouble when they got out. If you plan to travel to Portugal and want to visit Lisbon, I would spend a few days in the city, and other areas, such as Sinatra or Porto, both a short train ride away.

Where to stay in Lisbon

1908 Hotel – The 1908 Hotel was my dream boutique hotel. Maintaining the original building’s impressive architecture, the interior has been completely renovated and improved, retaining some of the original building’s beautiful touches. The rooms are spacious, without the European-style bathroom, which is definitely a plus. Our Ubers only averaged five to seven dollars, so the location was amazing! And while the hotel is beautiful, it’s the staff that take it to another level. They are always happy and cheerful to answer any questions and give feedback on Lisbon-related matters. The hotel’s restaurant, InFam, also offers a lobby bar with small bites and drinks. The salmon ceviche was easily the best I’ve had anywhere in the world, and the duck croquettes were the perfect filling snack before heading out for an afternoon stroll.

Squish factor: While it’s a good size, the shower doesn’t have a place to put your feet up to wash. Also, while this size doesn’t match, the door stop on the floor is especially invisible at night. Be careful or you will wind up in severe pain.

Where to eat in Lisbon:

Bubu – Boubou doesn’t look like much from the outside, but don’t let that fool you. In addition to a small dining room, the restaurant also has a spacious undercover garden. You will be surrounded by giant banana trees in a relaxed and casual environment. The menu features local Portuguese ingredients, changing weekly, depending on freshness. My sister and I went with the tasting menu, which features international flavors and elevated vegetarian options. You must order the creamy sweet potatoes in coconut tiger milk with the kaffir lime ceviche. Although the rabbit croquette was the best bite of the night, it was simply glorious.

Sweet Potato Ceviche at Boubou (Soreh Milchstein)

Squish factor: While the food and the environment are top notch, the seating is disappointing. It consisted mostly of armchairs, so I opted for the bench, which was somehow worse than being thrown into the armchair.

Stables Lisbon – Dull and romantic, Cavalarissa Lisboa has an unglamorous romance. Once there was a shop that sold electric motors, today a large white unicorn hangs high on the wall and entertains the restaurant. Start your meal with a drizzle of olive oil (or aged butter) and chewy focaccia before tucking into the shared plates – or leave your meal to the experts by ordering off the tasting menu. You’ll want to try the tender, rich Alentejo pork and pineapple skewers with cilantro, which pack a huge flavor punch. The chocolate and banana dessert brings back nostalgic memories of banana bread with an elevated twist.

Craft – Lunch at Officio was my favorite meal not only in Lisbon, but of the entire trip. Walking into the restaurant seems like an experience in itself. Bright and airy, you’ll want to take a deep breath to drink it all in before sitting down. When you sit down, you’re presented with a menu that looks like someone is still preparing it, with text and arrows.

And what a menu, from the chicken caramelized mushrooms (it was so unique and delicious!) to the veal and honey tartare that will have you drooling before you even order.

Fish Taco in Officio (Soreh Rice Pudding)

Oficio serves contemporary Portuguese cuisine with an emphasis on Mexican flavors. Now I’m a fan of amazing fish dishes, especially if the fish is raw. The fresh crockery wrapped in lettuce deserves an award. It is simply perfection. Don’t skip the oysters, the stuffed spider crab, or the fried leek.

Squish factor: The chairs have arms, but there are some bench seats. However, I was able to sit comfortably in an armchair for lunch.

Court room – Have you ever gone to a steak house and felt it was too old school or too crowded? Well, then you’ll love Sala de Corte, a slightly squishy, ​​very relaxed, steakhouse in Lisbon. The first thing you see when you walk into the restaurant is a dry old fridge full of all the steaks you can imagine. The lights are dimmed, the atmosphere of conversation and laughter evident. The menu is relatively simple. We ordered beef tartare, and strangely enough I didn’t order it because the first bite from the chef was beef tartare. Indulge in the steak, which is the star of the show, as it should be. The porterhouse was cooked to a perfect medium-rare, one of the best crusts I’ve ever had. Simply perfect. Dessert — a melodious, textured, crumbled hazelnut dessert finished with salted caramel ice cream — was nothing to sneeze at either.

Squish factor: When making a reservation, ask for a table with a bench, as the chairs all have armrests.

What to do in Lisbon

Food tour of flavors and traditions – I am very excited to do another food tour while in Lisbon. The Banquet Tastes and Traditions Tour is designed for both of you to taste traditional Portuguese cuisine and learn more about the history, cultures and traditions. Bring a bottle of water! Among the many delicacies, we entered a small shop that sold salt cod on one side and cured pork on the other (among other things). Here we enjoyed tasting Jamon Iberico, a tender, buttery, prosciutto-like cured pork. It is made from black Iberico pork, fed on an acorn diet. I’ve been wanting to try this for a long time, and it’s definitely here. Another small shop, Jinja Sem Rival, has been selling cherry liqueur since 1890. You are served a shot glass full of the liqueur, with a whole sour cherry floating at the bottom. It’s a drinkable drink – and a mouthful. Grab a bottle to take home, they’re only a few euros and worth every penny.

Squish factor: This tour has a lot of walking, more than any food tour I’ve taken, with steep hills with a large amount of steps, and steep hills on the way down. There were also not many seats at various stops.

Anantara Spa at Tivoli Avenida Liberdade Hotel – Every vacation needs good self-care, and for me that means the spa is in order. While in Lisbon, my sister and I had a massage and mini facial at the Anantara Spa at the Tivoli Avenida Liberdade Hotel. The service and staff, from the front desk to the massage therapists, was amazing and kind. From the moment you step into the spa, you will feel peace and tranquility. The massage was 10/10. After changing, the service began with washing and exfoliating our feet before heading to the massage table for the treatment. The temperature of the room can be adjusted on request, and the massage tables are preheated. I ran, so I asked them to turn it off. I was probably going to skip the mini-face since it’s more of a cleansing and moisturizing app than anything else. After the massage, we were taken to the relaxation room, and enjoyed a glass of champagne before heading back out into the world.

Squish factor: As expected, I don’t understand the cloak at all. Size 12 My sister wears the dress too small so I bring my own. Additionally, the provided boots and plastic underwear also do not fit. As the service began to wash the feet, I simply put on my dress, which I had taken off while lying on the table. I left my underwear on during the massage.

Photo of the author and her sister at one of the viewing locations (Chaya Milchtin).

Lisbon car tour – I’ve done private tours before, but this private car tour from Viator took private tours to a whole new level. We were picked up from our hotel by a luxurious, air-conditioned chauffeur before setting out on the tour. While the itinerary is set at the time of booking, the charm of a private tour is that you can change it. We stopped at two different lookouts, Pasteis de Belém, to take in the glory of Lisbon from above and learned a lot about the city. Our driver and guide join us at the best stops!