Five hotel restaurants to travel

Rome to Sicily on the W

W Rome opened in 2021 with a command to change how people perceive a brand that embraced elegant hospitality in the 1990s and 1990s, and then stayed a little tighter on that path to stay truly relevant. His Rome hotel is a step ahead, and definitely a cut above – from the rooftop lounge to the small boutique designed by Daria Reina at the fabulous local concept Chez Dede. Whether you choose to sleep there or not, lunch or dinner at Giano’s is undoubtedly a good idea.

Chefs around the world know Sicilian chef Ciccio Sultano from his restaurant Duomo in Ragusa, where he explores the adventurous expressions of local cuisine for hours, courses and glasses. At Giano, he’s gone the home-comforts route with some nice highs. “Cucina educata” – refined cooking – is what it’s called, and the food is truly wonderful. Order the Spaghetti Taratata (lemon sauce, tuna bottarga, breadcrumbs) as well as the Pollo Ruspante (spatchcock chicken with a piquant romesco-style sauce, I still think); Also to know what it means to taste at least one cannolo, the real deal. gianorestaurant.com

Tel Aviv’s new high table

Last month I stayed at Tel Aviv’s new 11-suite Hotel R48, the latest project of R2M, the restaurant and hospitality company founded 30 years ago by local creative directors-cum-collectors-aesthetes Mati and Ruti Broudo. The hotel that opened after its first conception deserves 100 percent maintenance. His gourmet restaurant, Chef’s Table, contributed nothing to that success. Executive Chef Ohad Solomon has been running the kitchens at CoffeeBar, one of Broudos’s first businesses and a Tel Aviv institution, for nearly a decade. R48 is an intimate space with an open kitchen where Ohad and his team work with intensity and sincerity.

The menu changes daily; Between seven and 10 courses, elegantly, but not pretentiously dressed, arrive in order. And man, were mine good. Although not Israeli, necessarily – Salomon takes inspiration from Asia and Latin America as much as the Eastern Mediterranean. an ultra-thin tartare “taco” combining beef, a tangy aioli and half a dozen herbs in a mini pastry shell; A rich fish and turmeric soup was served and the crisp noodles miraculously softened as I broke them and stirred them. All small and wonderful bites are vying for the number one spot. Only 25 covers and one night sitting. r48.co.il

Madame Darroze goes to Morocco.

Basque-Landes super-chef Helen Daroz doesn’t mess around, and she has a whopping six Michelin stars to prove it. She straddles the street food spectrum (Joia Boon, whose hamburger joint opened last month in Paris) and owns a large corner of haute cuisine (Marsan, again in Paris, Connaught in London, Villa la Couture in southern France).

By this summer, her fans will be delighted to learn, she will have a high-profile flagship in Marrakech, at no less an iconic address than the Royal Mansour – a super-luxe hotel owned by King Mohammed VI. Taking over the duties held by Yannick Alleno since 2010, when Royal Monsour opened, Darroz will oversee both La Table, a modern-French fine dining venue, and La Grande Table Marrocaine, an elegant traditional Moroccan restaurant. Expect a resurgence, some modern growth, and maybe more women in the kitchen and on the floor. royalmansour.com

An ag burger in midtown Manhattan

For decades, it was a case of “the know-it-all, you know it”: one of the two or three absolute best burgers in the city, hidden behind a slightly embarrassing velvet curtain at Lele Parker’s Meridian Hotel downtown on 56th Street. , in a place called, unexpectedly, a burger joint.

The address is not much of a secret for a while; The hotel has changed hands twice (it’s now Thompson’s) and the joint itself has expanded across the county, with two more outlets and a delivery service. But a trip to 56th Street will still find you hand-pressed, prime USDA Angus, salty fries, and — if you’re ever a New Yorker — a few shades of the good old days. burgerjointny.com

A single diner in a small town in Sonoma County

The Singletary in California’s Sonoma County has proven enough people are enough for a gastronomic event, with enough people traveling the distance to curate the unusual menu (sui generis California kaiseki based on produce grown on its own farm) by Kyle and Katina. Connaughton knew it was a good idea to have five beautiful rooms upstairs even before they opened.

Now that Innu is getting as much press (and as much interest) as the restaurant itself, the balance has shifted. But you still go for the food: the coveted dinner reservation is guaranteed with your room reservation, as is the home-cooked breakfast – dashimaki tamago or home-cooked salmon, black-truffle omelette or local-grain porridge – that’s half way to owning it. A reason to travel. singlethreadfarms.com