LFW closes with a melancholic Richard Quinn collection dedicated to the Queen London Fashion Week

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On Tuesday night, Richard Quinn closed London Fashion Week on a melancholy note.

In the year In 2018, she sat in the front row (with her own special padded blue cushion) for the late Queen Elizabeth II, so it’s no surprise that the Spring/Summer ’23 collection was dedicated to her, she said. Among the many with her grace and kindness.”

As this mortal coil played its mournful song to the siren, models draped in black — some in floor-length lace veils, others in birdcage-length veils and beautiful tiaras — walked slowly down the circular runway.

Model in sequin coat and lace veil
While watching the Queen’s funeral, Quinn and the team sew the pieces together. Photograph: Kate Green/BFC/Getty Images

In the center, hundreds of CCTV cameras and several televisions were installed, playing archive footage of the Queen.

After hearing of the king’s death, Quinn said he took a moment to pause before turning his inventory on 360°.

He and his team created the 23 black looks over 10 days, working and sewing all night while watching the funeral.

Inspiration came from the veils worn by the late Queen and her sister Princess Margaret to their father’s funeral in 1952, including Queen Victoria, who wore black for half of her life following the death of her husband Prince Albert.

Finding materials from local shops near his studio in Peckham, south London, Quinn explored new fabrics, images and techniques. Embroidery is placed on top of French lace, while some bulb-shaped shapes say “space” with small panels and feathers appearing.

A model on the runway in a black dress and veil with a tiara
The designs were inspired by the black worn by Queen Victoria in mourning and the veil the Queen wore at her father’s funeral. Photograph: Kate Green/BFC/Getty Images

There were plenty of signature Queen details too, like latex leggings, this time in mint green, powder white and striped black, from cape coats to tiny lace skirts.

A massive corsage draped over the lapel hid the models’ faces, a new twist on the usual face masks and shields. And of course there were many colorful floral prints. At this time, they vary from broken roses to tiny buds.

Although Quinn only launched his eponymous label in 2016, he continues to gain popularity in the international fashion world. The late monarch’s appearance at the show in 2018, which later awarded him the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Prize for British Design, brought him to prominence.

Human rights lawyer Amal Clooney was thrust into the spotlight even more when he wore a sequined gown to the 2018 Met Gala.

The Queen of Death with fashion editor Anna Wintour
The late Queen sat next to Anna Wintour at Queen’s runway show before presenting the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design at LFW 2018. Photo: Yui Mok/AP

Next year, model and reality TV star Kendall Jenner chose a rose-print floral dress complete with a black latex rollneck to appear at the 2019 Emmy Awards.

He also counts Priyanka Chopra, Kylie Minogue and Nicola Cullen as fans. Bridgerton star Cullen sat in the front row on Tuesday night, wearing a stunning yellow and purple floral print cape dress.

“He’s good at pushing boundaries,” he told the Guardian. His episodes are fun, absurd and really theatrical. Why don’t you have fun? “

This month, famous American designer Tommy Hilfiger chose Quinn to collaborate with him on a capsule collection. It was unveiled at the star-studded parks of New York Fashion Week on Sunday.

Varsity jackets, polo shirts and oversized puffer jackets have all been given Quinn’s signature floral treatment. When talking about cooperation, Hilfiger reflected on Quinn’s talent, saying, “I’m always inspired by the next generation – it’s creative and fun with trends and innovations.”

Model cornflower blue coat and mint silk scarf.
Halpern paid tribute to the late emperor, opening the show with a model in a cornflower blue gown and mint silk veil. Photo: Niklas Hallen/AFP/Getty Images

Queen wasn’t the only one paying tribute to the late monarch at London Fashion Week.

Falling during a period of national mourning, guests observed a minute’s silence at Daniel W. Fletcher, a model in a cornflower blue gown by Halpern with a silk hat tied under her chin opened the show, a bride carrying a bouquet of lilies of the valley at the finale Harris, Her Majesty nodded to her favorite flowers.

Reflecting on her legacy post-show, Quinn described the late queen as: “100% a fashion icon. Even from her picture, you know exactly who she is. I feel like that book is closed now.”

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