Indonesia’s Raja Ampat: ‘The Last Paradise on Earth’

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(CNN) — 30 years ago, Dutchman and history buff Max Amer received guidance from his then-wife, a war veteran, as he dived about WWII planes in Indonesian waters.

The tip led him on what would become a four-month diving trip through various islands, consulting local fishermen along the way.

During the trip, one place stood out from the other: Raja Ampat, in the Indonesian province of West Papua.

Located in the heart of the Coral Triangle, the Raja Ampat Marine Protected Area network covers more than 4 million hectares and includes about 1,500 islands.

Believed to be home to the richest marine biodiversity on Earth and a relatively remote location that allows it to escape mass tourism, it’s no wonder Raja Ampat is often marketed as “the last paradise on earth.” It is home to more than 1,600 species of fish and 75% of the world’s known coral species.

“There are endless beautiful spots and hundreds of beautiful coral reefs,” says Amer.

His love for the natural beauty and local communities. It inspired him to open the Kri Eco Dive Resort in 1994, with the aim of training local divers and bringing people to the “unspoiled underwater world”. It is followed by the nearby Sordio Bay Resort, which has two properties operated under Ammer’s Papua Diving Company.

One of the most successful conservation projects on earth

Raja Ampat, has been named several times "The last paradise on earth," It is famous for its rich marine biodiversity.

Often referred to as “the last paradise on earth”, Raja Ampat is famous for its rich marine biodiversity.

Papua Diving Resorts

Raja Ampat has not always been a conservation success story, proving that with the right approach, real change is possible.

“20 years ago, Raja Ampat was declining,” said Conservasi Indonesia’s senior vice president and CEO Meizani Ermadiani, citing shark finning and turtle poaching as examples.

“A lot had to happen in collaboration with different stakeholders to change that.”

In the year In 2004, Raja Ampat was added to the West Papua Bird’s Head Seascape initiative to establish a network of marine protected areas with the support of international conservationists and local authorities. It strives to protect marine resources by ensuring food security and sustainable economic benefits for local residents.

“Since the launch, fish populations have rebounded, overfishing by foreign fishermen has been reduced by 90%, corals are recovering, and long-term food and livelihood security for local communities has improved,” Ermadyani says.

Enabling local communities to become active members of environmental conservation efforts was key to its success.

The parks employ local people to explore and maintain the area. They preserve the area’s indigenous knowledge, values, and customary practices such as “sasi,” which refers to the centuries-old local tradition of shaping the environment, allowing ecosystems to recover.

“You have to start with the communities and make sure your solutions meet their needs. The goal is to support their own decisions to protect their places, so the solutions are sustainable and benefit local people and biodiversity,” Ermadyani says.

Their efforts are worthwhile. Earlier this year, the Raja Ampat Marine Parks Network — comprising 10 protected areas covering more than two million hectares — was awarded the Blue Parks Award.

Organized by Marine Conservation International and sponsored by the United Nations, this annual award recognizes marine parks around the world for meeting the highest science-based criteria for conservation effectiveness.

Shark Fining Camp-Zoro-Eco Resort

Misol Eco Resort is in A. "A no-take zone." All fishing and hunting activities are banned in the 300,000-acre marine reserve.

Misol Eco Resort is in a “no-take zone”. All fishing and hunting activities are banned in the 300,000-acre marine reserve.

Shawn Heinrichs

Marit Mining is the founder of the now famous Misol Eco Resort and the Misol Foundation, one of the best examples of the importance of local communities in creating a financially and environmentally sustainable resort.

Her relationship with Raja Ampat started as a love story. In the year While traveling in Bangkok in 2005, she met fellow diving enthusiast and future husband Andrew Miner.

On their third day, he invited her to dive in Raja Ampat.

“My first visit to Raja Ampat in 2005 was life-changing,” Miners told CNN Travel. Born in Sweden, she studied anthropology before discovering her passion for scuba diving and yoga in Thailand.

“It was unlike anything I had ever experienced before, both above and below the water.”

While the reefs on Tibtim Island, where Misol is now located, are amazing, it was something that angered the miners at the former shark overcrowding camp.

“I had never seen a live shark,” the miners said.

Biodiversity has not recovered from years of commercial fishing. This prompted the couple to found the Misol Foundation and Misol Resort — the latter as a way to financially support his conservation work — in 2005, after the first visit.

Then, they reached an agreement with local communities to turn the Misol Marine Reserve into a “no-take zone,” meaning all fishing and hunting activities within the 300,000-acre area would be banned. Since 2007, they have hired their own ranger to monitor the water.

As for the resort itself, sustainability is always at the forefront.

For example, solar panels reduce the use of fossil fuels. Rainwater is collected to produce drinking water. On-site gardens provide organic food. The foundation’s waste disposal programs buy waste and ocean plastics and sell them to recyclers.

Sharks and other sea creatures have returned to Mysol.

Sharks and other sea creatures have returned to Mysol.

Shawn Heinrichs

Meanwhile, marine life is returning to places where once “dead, skinny sharks floundered in the shallows” and rich underwater life has become more attractive to divers.

“Since 2007, fish biomass[in Misol]has increased by an average of 250% and shark populations have rebounded. A healthy, vibrant ecosystem is wonderful for tourists to experience, but it’s also important for local people who depend on the reef for their livelihood,” Miners said.

She explained that engaging local communities is essential to Raja Ampat’s continued success as a well-protected marine environment requires cooperation and long-term commitment.

“As ecosystems recover, their abundance becomes more attractive to those who want to exploit them. Threats are evolving and increasing over time. . . . It is unrealistic and dangerous to think that the problem will be fixed permanently.”

That is why it requires commitment from the community, local regional governments, scientists, business owners, non-profit organizations, schools, funders and influential local and international supporters, she added.

“This comprehensive approach gives the best chance for success. This requires the full spirit and energy found in Raja Ampat,” said the miners.

Cape Cree and other must-visits in Raja Ampat

Amer has also seen positive developments at the two Papuan diving resorts.

Two decades ago, Conservation International’s Dr. Gerry Allen, while diving at Papua’s Diving House Reef at Cape Cree, broke the record of 327 species of fish in a single dive. Ten years later, the number rose to 374 different species in 90 minutes.

“When we started, too many harmful practices were rampant in Raja Ampat: bomb fishing, potassium cyanide fishing, shark fishing, logging,” says Amer.

“It’s all been phased out. In our case, mainly by creating other livelihood options, we’ve given turtle hunters, shark fishermen,[woodworkers]jobs in resorts, so they no longer need to be involved in harming practices.”

Two of Papua’s diving sites were built in already disturbed areas. Both were former coconut plantations, meaning no virgin forest was lost.

They are mostly built with local materials, the inclusion of stainless steel extends the life of the wood. The roofs are made from traditional thatch leaves that are picked and purchased from the local community.

Locally built catamarans are more fuel efficient. A new catamaran currently in development will be fully electric and autonomous when it hits the water.

Papua Diving’s two resorts include conservation and diving centers and 90% of their staff are local.

When asked about his favorite places to dive in Raja Ampat, Amer says the list is endless.

“I’m often surprised when I look around during a dive, I wonder if I’m dreaming it all,” said Amer, who described many of the area’s dive sites.

Apart from Papua Diving’s famous home reef of Cape Cree, Sardines Reef is said to have “so many fish that they sometimes block the sunlight”.

Melissa’s Garden, named after Amer’s daughter, is a stunningly beautiful shallow coral reef plateau full of hard and soft corals. Home to a rugged coral reef plateau, Otdima is named after Oto Aom — a local Papuan who trained to become one of their most experienced dive guides.

There’s plenty to see in Raja Ampat, too, beyond the water.

“The water is dispersed through small mushroom-shaped straws,” Misol Miners said.

“The largest terrestrial arthropod, the coconut crab, scuttles through the growth and rare bird species such as the sulphur-crested cockatoo, blue hornbill and Brahminy kite are abundant. Thick mangroves serve as shelters and shelters for young fish. Flying foxes or fruit bats migrate.” refuge.

“On land there are hikes that reward unique views of karst islands and blue lagoons.”

“Learn from us.”

Papua Diving's founder says recruitment options have helped eradicate once-harmful fishing practices.

Papua Diving’s founder says recruitment options have helped eradicate once-harmful fishing practices.

Thomas Hyder

In order to get the best experience in Raja Ampat, travelers should “visit a local village and spend some time at a local school,” Louis Kabes, a local dive guide at Papua Diving, told CNN Travel.

“Tell us about your country and learn from us. Share food,” says Kabes, who hails from Sawandarek village on Banta Island, one of Raja Ampat’s main islands.

He said he is proud that Raja Ampat is now a very famous place and proud to be a diving guide.

Having spent three decades in Raja Ampat and visited more than 400 World War II aircraft, Amer agrees that the biggest attraction is the people.

“Meet people. Anywhere,” Amer added. “Maybe you’ll fall in love with them and never want to go home again.”

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