Yellowstone Family Travel Guide

“Don’t make eye contact!” My husband whispered, his hands gripping the steering wheel as steam poured around our car and a large buffalo came closer and closer. My family of four packed into a Kia sedan to explore Yellowstone National Park for the first time. This majestic beast with horns and hooves was walking along the yellow line on the road, causing a stampede of buffalo.

North America’s largest land animal, bison may look like fluffy cows, but signs around the park warn visitors to fight the urge to pet them. The buffalo heard the left side of our car as we all squealed in silence as we took in one of the many magical wonders of the world’s first national park.

Yellowstone is a natural wonder that every family should see. Covering 2.2 million acres in three states (Wyoming, Montana, and Utah), this massive historic park offers eye candy in every direction. Bubbling, sparkling geysers; Technicolor, beautiful hot springs and swinging, towering waterfalls stimulate all the senses. The untamed wilderness offers incredible opportunities, putting wildlife such as wolves, bears, bison and elk on many families’ bucket lists.

This year marks Yellowstone’s 150th anniversary. From snowy mountain peaks to pristine lakes and dramatic canyons, there is plenty of beauty to explore in Yellowstone. The main roads form a figure eight around the park, which covers 142 miles and takes four to seven hours to drive, depending on traffic. Tow and boardwalks provide accessible views of all major attractions.

Here, we cover the highlights and how to visit, including a road trip on the Beartooth Highway from Billings, Montana, to Cody, Wyoming and Yellowstone National Park.

Note: The park was recently devastated by an unprecedented flood, which closed some of the main roads and entrances. My family visited in early June, less than two weeks after the floods, which are now limiting visits this season. Learn more about Yellowstone’s current conditions on the National Park Service website. While the North Loop is currently closed until further notice, the South Loop has reopened.

Yellowstone attractions not to be missed

Old Faithful, the world’s most famous geyser, erupts 20 times a day at relatively predictable intervals. Watch the natural phenomenon from a comfortable bench on board. Burning gum (measuring over 350 degrees Fahrenheit) and boiling water shoot 90-120 feet into the sky to cheer crowds. Before you go, check geyser forecasts online and try to get there early to snag a seat.

Grand Prismatic Spring is a kaleidoscope of colors and the most photographed geothermal feature in Yellowstone. Like a postcard brought to life, walk the boardwalk around the Grand Prismatic, feeling the warmth of the steam room wafting around you as a cool breeze wafts by. My son says he feels hot, cold and wet. The smell of sulfur around geysers also breeds rotten eggs and humor.

Try to get to the Midway Geyser Basin parking lot before 10 a.m. to see Grand Prismatic, recommends Rick Honninghausen of Yellowstone National Park Lodges. Because Yellowstone traffic can be difficult to predict, we arrived late in the day, but were able to park and walk along the road. Seeing most of the sites around Yellowstone involved a lot of driving, so it was a nice break to take a short walk.

The fountain’s colored pots in the lower hydrothermal basin pour out a highly colored dance of blues, greens and golds. Yellowstone Lake, the continent’s highest elevation lake, is a tranquil spot to enjoy a picnic lunch.

The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone is a 20-mile gorge with two thundering waterfalls. Hoeninghausen told us that most visitors don’t make it far from the boardwalk, but if you want to do that, you’ll have to do a lot of walking. You can rent bear spray from general stores.

Yellowstone wildlife

Some of the great pleasures in Yellowstone include wildlife viewing. Visitors love to compare notes on what they see, including bears, wolves, bison, elk, badgers and foxes. Hayden and Lamar Valleys are the best places in the park to see wildlife. They are most active in the early morning and late evening hours.

In the summer of 2021, more than 5,000 bison were counted in Yellowstone. These 1,000-2,000 pound chocolate colored mammals can be seen around the park. Elk are abundant, with more than 15,000 roaming the park. Thirteen wolves currently call Yellowstone home. Bears tend to be an animal that most people look up to. My family was very happy to see a cinnamon colored bear near the road.

Often times, with more cars parked and cameras out, wildlife can be spotted. Please keep in mind that 100 yards is at least 25 yards for bears and other animals.

Where to stay and eat in Yellowstone

There are many lodging and lodging options in Yellowstone National Park as well as in surrounding towns such as Gardiner, Montana, (now recovering from flooding) and Jackson Hole, Wyoming (near Grand Teton National Park).

My family stayed at the Canyon Lodge in the middle of the park’s Figure Eight Trail. Canyon Lodge is currently closed, but during our visit it was within easy reach of most of the park and was a modern, clean and comfortable place to stay after hours of fresh air. Check online for seasonal lodging options. It is wise to book in advance.

Yellowstone offers several dining rooms, gift shops, and gift shops serving sandwiches and ice cream. Check availability in advance. Some require reservations in advance. Bringing coolers with drinks and snacks is always a good idea to avoid hangovers for traveling families.

We capped off our Yellowstone trip with a chuckwagon cookout. Two horses, Nip and Tuck, pulled our covered wagon through the sagebrush flats to an open-air steak dinner accompanied by campfire songs. Although the Yellowstone tour involved a lot of driving and sightseeing, our kids (ages 11 and 13) appreciated the grandeur more than I expected.

Getting to Yellowstone

Road tripping is a popular way to get to Yellowstone. Decide whether you want to drive from home or fly into Yellowstone, Bozeman, Jackson Hole or Billings. My family chose to fly in and out of Billings, Montana, so we could drive the Beartooth Highway, one of the most scenic drives in America.

Beartooth is generally open Memorial Day through mid-September, weather permitting, and takes you to the northeast entrance to Yellowstone, through Cody, Wyoming, and the picturesque town of Red Lodge, Montana.

The northeast entrance to Yellowstone is currently closed due to flooding; But you should definitely put this wow-worthy drive on your list for future trips. Known for its sandstone rimrocks surrounding the city, Billings offers outdoor adventure and amazing cuisine. We spent a few days in Cody, Wyoming, the gateway to Yellowstone, a Wild West story known as Buffalo Bill Town in the Rockies.

Here are our recommendations for each

Billings, Montana

Fun things to do with kids

One of our favorite things to do in Billings was rent bikes from The Spoke Shop and cruise around Rimrocks. We started from Sword Park, where there is a wonderful view of the city, and after a downhill slide we zoomed in to Boothill Cemetery for a bit of history. There are many hiking opportunities throughout Billings, including Phipps Park, Dover Park, Zimmerman Park, and the Four Dance Trail, which offers views of the Yellowstone River, downtown Billings, and on clear days, the peaks of the Northern Rockies.

Bitter Creek Outfitters is a family-owned horse farm with rave reviews that offers guided horseback rides. Catch a Billings Mustangs ball game or visit wolves, sloths and red pandas at ZooMontana. Drive to Pompeys Pillar National Monument and see if you can spot the signature of Lewis Clark and the Clark Expedition in the sandstone. See prehistoric rock art at Pictograph State Park. If there’s rain in the forecast or they simply need a break from the sun, the kids can climb the walls at Steepworld Climbing & Fitness. Then take a ride in the waves at The Reef Indoor Water Park, the largest indoor water park in Montana.

Where to stay and eat

The Northern Hotel in downtown Billings is modern, upscale, and within walking distance of many great restaurants, including Down Bernie’s Diner. Go wild and order a holiday breakfast from Barney’s – it’s chocolate cake and milkshake! Big Diaper Ice Cream is across the street, which means my family has visited many times. I had to try the black licorice and cardamom flavor. My kids went for the White Mint Oreo and Huckleberry.

Our most frequent breakfast choice was Stella’s Kitchen and Bakery, which serves breakfast all day, including a large, fresh cinnamon roll. The Fieldhouse Challah French Toast topped with whipped cream made my son’s eyes roll back in their heads. The Sassy Biscuit is another great breakfast treat, offering a variety of sweet and savory options.

For dinner, we recommend The Marble Table, which opened in 2020 and is a James Beard Best New Restaurant nominee. Walker’s Grill is commonly referred to as one of the best restaurants in Billings. Many dishes are inspired by the chef’s parents and friends. Buffalo Block Prime Steakhouse serves aged steaks and is located in a hotel that was a popular hangout for Buffalo Bill and Calamity Jane.

Cody, Wyoming

Fun things to do with kids

Wild West showman Buffalo Bill founded Cody, Wyoming. Visit the Buffalo Bill Center of the West for five museums on the American West, where you can see exhibits about Native American culture, famous cowgirls and cowboys, live game birds, and Western art. Buffalo Bill Dam was the largest dam in the country until Hoover Dam was built. Today it is a national symbol of civil engineering. It offers stunning views of the river, reservoir and surrounding mountains. You can also take a ride on the Cody Trolley Tour, which explores the landscape with a side of history and silly jokes.

Whitewater hiking in the Shoshone Red Rock Canyon with Wyoming River Trips was our favorite adventure in Cody. Class I to III rapids, depending on seasonal water levels, is an hour-long paddle that put huge smiles on all of our faces from start to finish. The kids screamed and cheered as he threw water in the raft (spray suits and life jackets were provided).

The Cody Night Rodeo is the longest and only night rodeo in the world, running from June to August. See how long each brave cowboy or cowgirl can last. Grab some chuckles from the rodeo clowns and kids event where kids are encouraged to enter the stadium and run through the dirt with calves.

Drop by Old Trail Town for an authentic view of the Old West. In the year Frontier buildings from the 1890s, like the saloon Butch Cassidy frequented Hole-in-the-Wall-Gang, are on display along with thousands of historical artifacts. Visit Jeremiah Johnston in a cemetery with a mountain backdrop and a big blue sky. The Heart Mountain Interpretive Center is a National Historic Landmark site at the former Heart Mountain Camp where the Japanese were brutally incarcerated during World War II. Eye-opening exhibitions are views from the Internet. Their tenacity and positive attitude are inspiring.

Where to stay and eat

Opened in 2021, the Hampton Inn & Suites in Cody is a great place to stay. Spacious rooms and suites, plus an indoor pool and free hot breakfast make this new hotel perfect for a family stay.

Trailhead Restaurant served our favorite meal in Cody. With wood-fired pizzas, pastas, as well as steaks and burgers, you simply can’t go wrong with Wyoming Ranch. Cody’s Cattle Company offers an all-you-can-eat family-style dinner with a live show. Clapping, singing, dancing and laughter are guaranteed. Dine at Michael’s Tacos for a real bargain, authentic Mexican cuisine. Millstone Pizza Company & Brewery has an arcade upstairs, which is a big hit with kids.

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