Why Alaska’s fall cruise was one of my favorite travel experiences.

Alaska is often a place on the must-see list, but it is out of reach for many people due to financial and time constraints. My husband and I were no different. However, a few years before we were ready to retire, our investments were doing extremely well. It was an easy decision to make our Christmas gifts to each other a trip to Alaska.

We love to travel in September, because school starts to thin out the crowds in our favorite spots. A side benefit of less population is increased competition among places where tourism is their main source of income, so prices fit our budget better.

The biggest downside was the cold weather in the fall, and we were heading north! However, living in South Dakota at the time, we both had a lot of winter gear. Still no problem.

Next, we were faced with the choice of flying or taking a cruise and poured through travel guides for months, finally choosing Princess Cruises’ Inside Passage cruise, which was between Alaska and islands off the coast of Canada.

The real hook that caught our attention were the photos of the fall colors in Canada’s Yukon Territory. We took a friend’s recommendation and booked the cruise day trip at the same time as the cruise.

Tip: Buying tickets for off-board cruises online with the cruise company is easy and smart. The tours can also be more expensive when booked after boarding the ship.

Rain and fog greeted us in Seattle and we began to think that traveling this late in the year was a mistake. But, within a few days, two cruises changed everything and the trip is still one of my favorite vacations.

The inner passage

The Inside Passage stretches hundreds of kilometers from Puget Sound, Washington, along the coast of British Columbia and the Gulf of Alaska. There are over 1,000 islands and endless beaches, coves and bays.

Our first few days at sea were not pleasant. A mist rolled in, followed by rain from a gray sky. However, we didn’t want to miss anything about Alaska and spent most of our time in our warm and cozy room by the window. Thankfully we had a balcony and after putting each of our winter clothes on we sat comfortably outside with our binoculars.

Tip: Review the cruise route map to book a room on the side of the ship facing the beach.

Gliding silently through mountains carved by Mother Nature was exhilarating aboard the Tracy Arm Ferry. Yes, it was cold, the sky was stone gray, and the mountains were blurred by the mist that formed over the water – but it was so cool to watch the glaciers floating in the distance with the ship’s Mendenhall Glacier, no writing.

When the rain or fog prevented us from seeing the front patio seating, we headed to the Cruise Center, which offers a very electric casino, a quiet library, and an inspiring shopping mall. The live shows were great, and of course the food was delicious no matter where we ate.

Tip: Carry waterproof bags used by kayakers for technological equipment to enjoy the outdoors even when it rains. Cameras can be hidden under rain ponchos instead of rain jackets. I use one that folds into a small bag that fits in my pocket.

Crushing around Ketchikan

When we arrived in Ketchikan, the sun was out and the walk around town was fun and very interesting, especially the Native American museums and colorful totem poles. Not long after, we learned another big bonus about being on the last cruise of the season as we popped into a few stores. Everything is on sale, with most items more than 50 percent off, including silver and gold jewelry and artwork. Christmas was just around the corner.

Later, we boarded a small boat for a ride. This tour is only available in the fall and early winter because the crab season in this part of Alaska is limited to sustainably managing and protecting wild crabs. Our visit was to catch Dungeness crabs, recommended by Seafood Watch as a good alternative to “overfished fish”.

As soon as we boarded, they gave us bright yellow raincoats and my heart sank that it was about to rain. Error. As the boat entered the open ocean, dodging the waves rolling over the bow was the new exciting challenge to stay dry.

The young man leading our group did his best to shout above the boat engine and roaring waves. We rolled with it, laughing and holding each other’s newbies. We learned how to find crabs, how to design a Genius cage, how to get them down to sea, and what to do when you get pulled over by crabs. It was a lot of fun.

Tip: Our group was small, and everyone had hands-on experience. There are big boat tours made famous by the reality television series on the Discovery Channel. The experience might not be as fun, but it might be better for people prone to seasickness.

Search for gold on the train

From the port of Skagway, the journey began with a bus ride along the Klondike Highway to the Canadian border. There we rode the White Pass and Yukon Historic Railroad through the famous Yukon Territory and White Pass Summit.

The train was an important result of the Klondike Gold Rush in 1896, when George Carmack and two First Nations companions, Skookum Jim (Hanson) and Dawson Charlie, discovered a few gold nuggets in Canada’s Klondike region. Those few spikes sparked the Klondike Gold Rush.

A few years ago, a Canadian research team had predicted the gold rush and had already planned to build a railway through the mountains to the mines to make the miners rush. The track is still the main route into the heart of the Yukon Territory.

The three-foot narrow track gauge allows for tighter radii on curves, allowing the train to follow the terrain and eliminating the need for tunnels. The train seemed to miss the mountain at times.

In the year Restored as a heritage train in 1988, tourists from cruise ships became the new ticket buyers. The train still uses vintage cars and new 19th century cars with wheelchair lifts. The White Pass and Yukon Railroad operates from May through September and offers a variety of trips in length, duration, and price.

We Touched Gold – The fall foliage season was wonderful with rows of golden leaves swaying in the wind. The spectacular views below the steep valleys that can only be seen from the train make for an amazing journey.

Tip: The most beautiful views are from a moving train and it’s best to use a camera with fast shutter speed options.

Take a step back in time

The last stop on the train is Carcross, Canada, a unique isolated village named “Caribou Crossing” in 1899 to denote a place where huge herds of caribou have crossed for centuries. The rural town of 301 Tagish First Nation people was alive as we followed the walking map to beautiful historic buildings, totem poles, rustic log cabins and wooden bears.

The original Caribou Hotel, built in 1898, unfortunately burned to the ground in 1909 and was rebuilt shortly thereafter. Mrs. Bessie Gideon She ran the hotel until her death in 1933, but her ghost is said to haunt the third floor. Parrot Parrott, who has lived at the hotel for 54 years, entertained guests with his rendition of “Springtime in the Rockies.” Celebrating Polly, Surly’s Bird Salon is open weekends.

One of the most interesting buildings is the Skookum Jim House, built after the discovery of gold. Covered in cherry red paint mixed with black and blue paintings of Yukon Territory animals, the exterior wall was done in the coastal tradition by Tlingit artist Keith Wolf Smarch. Skookum donated the gym to the Wolf Daklawaidy Tribe of the Tagish First Nation.

The Barracks is a log cabin built in 1921 by a foreman of the White Pass Railroad from burned trees near Lake Bennett. The logs are placed vertically with a circular base hammered between the logs with oakum. The house later served as a barracks for the Royal Canadian Mounted Police with an adjacent prison where many selfies were taken. Today Barracks showcases artists who specialize in the Northern spirit.

Tip: While in Skagway, visit the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park before boarding the bus.

If you go

The weather on board in September was very cold at sea, but the port calls only required a light jacket. Temperatures in Canada’s Yukon Territory range from 48 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Even when the sun is out, the temperature cools down immediately when clouds roll in. Bring plenty of long-sleeved shirts, closed-toed waterproof hiking shoes, a hat, and gloves. Sweaters and windbreakers will be your favorite go-tos. Don’t bring a sweater because there will be a variety of sweaters available at great prices.