The Romantic Side of Sweden: Travel Weekly

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When sailing to Stockholm on the Silja Serenade, it’s best to leave the stateroom curtains open at night. At first the Baltic Sea looks like a Rothko painting, but gradually an orange line bisects the indigo sea and sky, and at dawn, you’re sailing among the 30,000 islands that make up the Stockholm archipelago.

International travelers lament the loss of romance in getting from one destination to another, but a cruise around Stockholm on a variety of cruises will remind you of a relaxing time while taking in the beauty of the Swedish capital. On a sunny day, a short boat ride from Djurgården to the neighboring island of Skupsholmen can feel like island hopping in the Mediterranean – especially if you’ve been dancing to “Mamma Mia” at the ABBA museum.

For years, the island of Skopjesholmen was famous for two 17th-century yellow military buildings designed by the same architect behind the royal palace. Known to locals as Long Row, the government-listed historic buildings were transformed into Hotel Skupsholmen in 2009 by award-winning architectural firm Kleisson Koivisto Run. Access via boat enhances the feeling of a private retreat on a lush island. Although Skeppsholmen is located across the footbridge to the National Museum, the hotel makes the most of an escapist atmosphere with guest bikes, a tennis court and an outdoor restaurant overlooking the inner harbour.

The adjacent sculpture gardens at the Moderda Museet are filled with sculptures by Jean Tinguely and Nigue de Saint Phalle, as well as Picasso’s “Dejeuner sur l’Herbe,” which complements Skeppsholmen’s plein-air vibe.

In the summer, the island hosts the Stockholm Jazz Festival and the avant-garde theater group Teater Galeasen. The small castle on the waterfront is known as the Skridskopaviljongen (or Skating Pavilion) for the 19th century ice skating parties held by the Royal Court.

The buildings known as Long Row were converted into Hotel Skeppsholmen in 2009.

The buildings known as Long Row were converted into Hotel Skupsholmen in 2009.

Hotel Skeppsholmen

A member of Design Hotels, Hotel Skeppsholmen features contemporary artworks from the property’s original 17th-century origins. Each room in the hotel Skeppsholmen has a nameplate detailing the history of the room’s former occupants during its time as a military base. Room 262, for example, now the Junior Suite, was once the quarters of the Minister of the Navy, who in 1900 became Prime Minister of Sweden. While the rooms retain their historical flair, light-filled, gallery-white interiors showcase Swedish and Scandinavian design with beds by Duksiana, Boffi bathtubs and Byredo toiletries.

The hotel’s breakfast buffet at Restaurant Langa Raden is a tribute to Sweden’s culinary heritage and local purveyors. Baskets are available for guests who choose to hop on Eco Sightseeing for a picnic on the waterfront or a morning boat ride.

Owned and managed by Elias Nilsson, Silvia is a World War II landing craft converted to run on electricity, with zero emissions and no engine noise, making it an excellent means of transport for the Grand Hotel Stockholm.

Grand Hotel Stockholm's Cadier Bar is named after the hotel's founder and serves signature cocktails.

Grand Hotel Stockholm’s Cadier Bar is named after the hotel’s founder and serves signature cocktails. Photo credit: Grand Hotel Stockholm

Grand Hotel Stockholm

Perhaps second only to the Royal Palace, the Grand Hotel Stockholm is the most iconic landmark on Stockholm’s inner harbour. A recent renovation of the five-star hotel’s entrance and facade heightens the sense of grandeur upon entering the impressive lobby.

In the year Opened in 1874, the Grand and its interiors have been designated as national treasures, especially the Hall of Mirrors, which was carved by Versailles. Walk through the public spaces and it’s easy to see why the Grand has housed nearly all Nobel laureates and their families since 1901.

From the terrace of the Super Suite, the beauty of Stockholm’s waterfront is even more spectacular, with the Royal Palace and Houses of Parliament directly across the water. Similarly sized Super Suites, complete with entrance vestibule and powder room, also for Madame Recamier, espresso bar, seating area with French doors leading to the balcony, dressing room, king-size bed, marble bath and toiletries by Bottega Veneta.

A member of the world’s leading hotels, the Grand offers 273 rooms and 70 suites, many of which are designated as Signature Suites by Martin Brudnizky for their extraordinary interior design. The flagship suite at the hotel includes a rooftop terrace, which is complimented by signature cocktails at the Grand Cadier Bar.

Restaurants on the Grand include two by Matthias Dahlgren, the bistro Matbaren and the vegetarian-based Rutabaga, both of which have been mentioned by Michelin for their innovative gastronomy. The extensive breakfast buffet served on the balcony overlooking the harbor is delicious.

Guests looking to relax are welcomed by the hotel’s Nordic Spa and Fitness, with hydrotherapeutic options including an indoor pool, hydromassage, cold water jets, cold bucket showers, steam and sauna — a reminder that water is key to well-being in Sweden.

A junior suite at Hotel Skeppsholmen starts at $500, while a superior suite at Grand Hotel Stockholm costs $1,300 and includes a breakfast buffet.

SAS offers direct service to Stockholm in seven US cities, with SAS Plus and SAS Lounge access for business travelers. Additional amenities include access to Fast Track security screening, free onboard WiFi and three-course Nordic meals.

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