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Did Simone Rocha steal London Fashion Week before it even ended? With her Spring/Summer 2023 collection, earlier today at the Central Criminal Court of England and Wales – commonly known as The Old Bailey – Rocha seems to have done just that. In the year With a formative background starting at Lulu Kennedy Fashion Orient in 2010, as well as studying at St. Martin’s, Rocha has made a name for herself with consistent delivery season after season. Each one comes out in her usual romantic design language.
For SS23, Rocha takes us to court, and hands us her biggest hit to date. For the first time, the designer has not only created a complete menswear collection, but she has been able to marry this innovation with the house code and the level of detail expected on both lines.
Like piercing opera music (a soundtrack that alone heightens the mood in the room), the tulle formations envelop the body like soft waves, working together with the baroque motifs of ribbons and flowers attached to the floor to create a sense of drama. In the form of unmissable statements. Pearl beads on the shoulders of front-facing sweaters, as well as the straps of larger-than-life backpacks and Rocha’s signature bags are reminiscent of the pearls themselves.
It was the second menswear to hit the runway, as Rocha demonstrated the symbiotic relationship between the well-defined womenswear catalog and the new menswear. Tulle was offered in cream but had a rough edge, eschewing the structural shapes that flowed from the oversized bomber jackets. This juxtaposition—soft and heavy approach—recognizes Rocha’s ability to recognize the presence of business as a designer, well aware that the general menswear buyer may not want to opt for a picnic, but can still get the look through the aforementioned bomber.
Similarly, another bomber jacket – this time in the traditional shade of reflective khaki – was paired with cargo pants and echoed through the jacket’s ribbed cuffs on tapered legs. Harmony comes in the following look, this time the womenswear classic bomber jacket shape is transformed into a technical type of puffa dress, on the side, the next look, now menswear again, a pearl-detailed cream, sitting on a white tee and floral pants, again soft meets hard. He brought us fashions.
White t-shirts have never been easier, with a three-dimensional sculpture growing on the front. Rocha’s florals embellished Maison Margiela’s duvet coat with carefree ruffles, satin cream coats, while men’s tailoring kept things traditional and clean in black.
It wasn’t just a promising effort from Rocha. Her menswear collection, now fully up to date, was enough to instantly catapult the designer into this relatively undiscovered world. Lee Alexander McQueen references and a couture inspired white bridal ensemble wrapped up the final show.
Speaking at the collection, Rocha explained that her bracelets represent the concept of using her emotions physically over the past two years. On her menswear, she said:
“I’m really proud [deliver] Menswear, I felt I could work on this beautiful masculinity. For everything I’ve done over the last ten years, it’s been a testament to that role and how it crosses between the two—and I wanted to explore that in masculinity.
Simon Rocha’s SS23 runway show can be seen in the gallery above, while more London Fashion Week SS23 content can be found on Hypebeast and our new Instagram channel @HypebeastUK.
For more must-see shows, check out the big winning collection from JW Anderson.
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