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Noticing the drastic decline in fashion’s plus-size efforts in recent years, influencer Sarah Chiwaya’s concerns were reinforced when she noticed a lack of true plus-size models on the runways at New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023 this September.
She wrote on Instagram: “I hate that all my fears that this is a big step forward in terms of body diversity have been confirmed, especially by so many big names.
As a popular plus-size shopping guide and brand consultant, Chiwaya has seen the plus-size fashion industry struggle to rebuild after the pandemic. Loft entered the plus-size division in 2010. The spring 2021 cut comes after a very public PR campaign to support the plus-size community and Old Navy’s latest Bodequality initiative — an effort to restructure the brand around size-inclusivity, offering sizes 0 to 28 in all stores — less than a year after profits failed to meet expectations. He returned.
With plus-size options already so limited, cuts like these felt like a blow to consumers. “It takes a big time or someone with a big platform to change brands,” Chiwaya tells TZR. “And then, it’s just small steps forward. It can feel overwhelming at times.
And then, pulling at a slower pace than retail, is fashion week.
According to a recent report by The Fashion Spot, body diversity was on trend at NYFW from Spring 2016 to Spring 2020, with the number of curvy models represented rising from 14 to 68. Since then, the industry has seen a steeper decline, showing just 27 plus-size models in fall 2020. Due to the pandemic, the following year had a dismal representation as many designers pulled back from showing IRL – the number rising to 48 once Fashion Week resumes in full in Spring 2022. In the year Plus-size models cast, which according to The Fashion Spot, equaled 5.09% of the total cast. To be clear here: 68% of America is a 5.09% representation of women.
“We still have a long way to go,” says Jacqueline Sarka, agent and co-owner of Jag Models. “We had so many great pre-casts this season, every casting agent reached out. We had so many amazing new faces coming out to these shoots, and we were excited when we qualified for the audition. And then all of a sudden, you just see the same faces on the streets that you saw last season.
She added: “If there are 53 to 63 looks, why are 10 to 15 models over 0?”
Sarka describes the polarizing shift between pre-pandemic representation and how much Covid has changed the fashion landscape now. In the “old days,” as many think, a magnifying glass was placed on brands to identify who prioritized integration over those who did not. In the years since the divisive 2016 election, “representation” has become a buzzword in fashion and media. Everyone had a different definition of the term, but no one wanted to skip the conversation because of the risk of cancellation.
At that time, one statistic in particular caught the eye of many: the plus size fashion market is worth $24 billion, according to the report. There was a lot of room for growth, and many designers and brands were interested. Whether you’re hoping to harness the power of size or whether you’re vocally grown-up, get into the good graces of social media, a well-documented trend toward plus-size populism.
“I think Covid has a lot to do with it [the shift backward]”To be honest,” says Sarka, explaining that when financial problems hit, many brands cling to what seems like a safe haven. Despite the market potential, venturing into plus sizes is still an economic risk, and one that requires heavy initial and long-term investment (from fabrics to models to marketing and more). So many designers have chosen to focus on an already established clientele rather than trying to expand into a new – and in their eyes, dangerous – demographic. “[Designers] They didn’t think outside the box,” says Sarka. “So let’s go back to where it was a few seasons ago and it was like, ‘I could use one or two.’ [curve girls]But that’s it, because who knows what the economy will do.’
The luxury curve consumer is not established as a mass market consumer. There are many reasons for this, including price point, poor marketing and accessibility. Of course, this segment of the market caters only to the thin and elite due to the age-old conditioning of plus-sizes, closing their eyes and minds to the small possibility that they too might be considered to participate in a rarified world. High fashion.
This is not an American-only problem, because many European fashion weeks have already prioritized slim figures. However, Copenhagen Fashion Week surprised many this season by showcasing body diversity at shows such as Aeron and A.Roge Hov. But it’s still unclear how London, Milan and Paris will fare during September’s fashion month.
Culturally, the conversation seems to be shifting backwards. Celebrities who rose to prominence as plus-size leaders like Rebel Wilson and Adele have made headlines for their dramatic weight loss. Y2K fashion soared, with distinctly leathery bodies to match the punishing beauty standards of the day. And while almost everyone has gained weight during the pandemic (the American Psychological Association reports that the average American gained 29 pounds in the first year of lockdown, with 61% reporting unwanted weight changes), it’s a race to lose it all.
Of course, all this contributed to the decrease in the desire to represent large sizes on the balcony. Some designers who have used a token curve girl have even done size expansion. Take the Colina Strada, which, according to Chiwaya’s Instagram, sent the model Alva Claire, but according to the brand’s website, no more than 10 will be sold. Apparently, the problem goes far beyond what is seen at fashion week. ; Moments like the inclusion of these signs, however, cannot be followed by buyers.
“It still feels a little pretentious with one or two. [curve girls] And then everyone is the same size,” says Adam Hughes of Jag Models. Nothing between 0 and 14. [showcased]; Just the daily sample size is 0 and then. [the token plus-size model]He said.
Model Michael McGrady thinks designers are now skeptical of adding bad press or social media attention to benefit their bottom lines.
“We live in a capitalist society, so attention and eyeballs equate to money,” she says. “Whatever we are clicking, reading, posting – even I thought twice [calling out this problem on Instagram] this week. Because I bring more attention to these [problematic] Brands? Do they need attention for your brand? “
A report released in February 2022 by In style About 20% of the shows listed on the official CFDA calendar feature 20 or more. And 70% of designers offered a size 12 or more, although most stopped at 14/16. To jump into size expansion—not just putting one curvy model on the runway, but offering multiple sizes—requires a deep investment from designers, many of whom still don’t see the immediate value, don’t want their clothes to be widely worn. As large scale design is not offered in the country’s top fashion establishments, they do not have the size range or the capacity to do so.
The gradual shift away from representation over the past few years is shocking to those new to the conversation. But for people like model Jordan Underwood, NYFW’s lack of body diversity is to be expected. Instead of fighting a losing battle, they’ve enlisted the support of like-minded industry members from brands like Berries by Emma Zach, who presented a collection of different body shapes and sizes in Brooklyn last weekend. Wray; and RCA Public Label by Rene Cafaro. Plus-size fashion has always been rich from the inside out, and these labels are living proof of that.
“Shouting aimlessly about the lack of body diversity without promoting fat models who are ready and willing to sign up will make zero difference,” Underwood wrote in praise of Berez while walking in the brand’s runway show. “During NYFW and beyond, we have an example of a brand doing the work to include people of all sizes, races, abilities and genders in their work.
All that said, there have been some big-name designers who have shown their commitment to body diversity on the official CFDA calendar, and those moments should be celebrated. Christian Siriano, of course, is reliable. And Tommy Hilfiger made a splash by not only featuring buff faces like Ashley Graham, Paloma Elsesser and Precious Lee, but also by sending two plus-size male models down the runway — an unprecedented event.
“Fashion as a whole has an inclusivity problem, but plus-size men are arguably one of the underrepresented groups,” says influencer and editor Bella Gerard. “Several curvy male models walked the Tommy runway, and their looks were deliberately styled. They could have played it up and put these guys in oversized sweaters and sweaters in the collection — as many designers do when they include curvy models just for the optics — but instead they wore perfectly tailored pants and coats. It was a bright spot in an era that didn’t include New York Fashion Week.
Many of the users who shared their thoughts on this segment noted that designers seem to be backing away from body diversity, as plus-size consumers are not their target audience. Representation always feels good, sure, but at the end of the day, fashion is a money-making machine. But how can plus-size shoppers return without a chance to get in the door? Siriano has made it clear that plus sizes are among his biggest sellers – is he different or an example his peers refuse to follow?
There is no easy answer to these questions. But one thing that is clear is that if we want to have body diversity on the runways in a meaningful way, a new method of change must enter the fashion landscape. And perhaps this change must come from within. Not in the plus size community where speaking up is already a routine. But for those who have the power to use their voice, regardless of body type, it brings the importance of not only representation but presence of scale.
Sarka says: “When we don’t have to talk about it, we feel complete; This is a discussion that we should not be shouting over and over again.
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