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The carpets were rolled up and the clothes were gone, only a few duplicate feathers and chains were left behind, but some New York Fashion Weekend guests may still be belting out the tunes they heard on the runway in the days to come.
This is the goal of many designers as they choose the precious songs played as they move down the runway wearing their latest lines.
“When we put fashion together, it’s a fast film.” Michael Kor He said this week in an interview with The Associated Press at the fall/winter show. “The soundtrack is very important.”
Kors’ latest collection featured some bohemian flair: mini skirts, oversized belts and high boots, made of suede, and fringe accents with a modern feel. It was an audition for the strong women who had influenced his life in the past, such as Tina Turner, Jane Fonda and Gloria Steinem, who sat in the front row.
Telling them, the chorus team created an all-female soundtrack, much of it played by a live string orchestra in the center of the plane.
“You’re going to hear Joan Bass, a little bit of Stevie Nicks and then Grace Slick,” says Kors, adding that the song is “always” about the person who “loved” Jefferson Airplane. “I always wonder what’s going to hit me emotionally in the gut, but I always find a different way. The orchestration of Jefferson Airplane is definitely a spin on things.
David Blonds, designer of the Blonds brand, agrees that he and partner Philip Blond are inspired by film and music and view their shows as a piece of art.
“All of our soundtracks are massively cinematic, and they really… support the scene. And it wouldn’t be the same without him, not only visually, but the sound is very important,” said David Blond.
For Carolina Herrera creative director Wes Gordon, this season’s playlist was personal. Models He walked his way to “Georgia on My Mind” at The Plaza Hotel, among other songs.
“’Georgia’ rocked my newborn. Her name is Georgia. She’s too young to know or appreciate it but one day I’ll tell her,” Gordon said as his eyes lit up.
There are many elements competing for attention at fashion shows – the clothes, the hair and makeup, the celebrity and industry guests in the front row and the often spectacular locations. But the music can set the tone or emphasize the theme the designer is trying to convey.
Many of Herrera’s designs had a feminine, romantic theme.
“Tomorrow is Valentine’s Day so I did a love theme,” Gordon said on Monday. “The opening was ‘Say a Little Prayer.’ Because we really did Rihanna, Rihanna is Rihanna! And the ultimate Whitney Houston’s ‘I Wanna Dance With Somebody’.
Tory Burch is a long-time advocate for women’s empowerment and chooses to include prominent female voices in her playlist.
“I wanted to think about women Vocalists And singers … starting with Tammy Wynette,” Burch said after her performance. “The idea of ’stand by your man’ and you know obviously, I believe in women’s empowerment, so it’s a little bit ironic, even though I think Tammy Wynette was an amazing, strong woman.
Models in her show also walked to opera and eurythmics and ended with Carly Simon’s “You’re So Vain.” Burch smiled when asked why that song and – like Simone’s refusal to reveal the song’s inspiration – Burch said she wanted her choice to be “left up to interpretation”.
Many designers are eager to discuss their music choices as part of their message when releasing a new collection.
“Fashion and music, there’s a blur where one leaves and starts,” says Mark Bagley of Bagley Mishka. “There are many designers whose soundtrack inspires every detail on the runway. It definitely affects what we do.”
James Mischka was the first to choose music for their performances, and during this period he traveled to Italy and was influenced by the film the duo liked.
“We started with a lot of Italian music from the ’60s,” says Mishka. “We used a bit of the music from ‘The Menu’… It’s one of our favorite movies and the music has a catchy, evocative feel to the whole show.
Just like designing clothes, music is subjective so designers can’t always please their audience with the songs they choose.
“Some people are more judgmental about the clothes than the music,” Bagley says with a laugh. “We are against this all the time.”
The fashion week schedule is typically packed with multiple shows taking place each day, so music is one way to stay memorable. That’s one of Gordon’s goals when scoring his shows.
“You always give up on me and at the end of the day you hate me so much because the song is stuck in your head and you can’t get out!” he said.
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