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When Hawaiian-born fashion designer Mika Kamoholiei was first asked to attend New York Fashion Week in 2021, he had one question: Could he bring his own models? While most designers tend to use models and makeup provided by fashion week staff, Kamohoalii—the first native Hawaiian to be invited to New York Fashion Week—ruled that option out. He believed it was important for the models to be Hawaiian to show his deep love for the culture, because Kamoholii clothes are more than clothes – they are a reflection of his roots. And he knows that showing them to a global audience is a rare opportunity to correct harmful plastic-lei-and-coconut-bra stereotypes by introducing the fashion world to the beauty of Hawaiian history.
Native Hawaiian fashion designer Mika Kamoholiei.
(Image credit: Courtesy of Kamoholiei)
“After being invited to Fashion Week, it’s not about me, it’s about my whole community,” he said. “I knew I had to bring my own models because it was important to me to have Native Hawaiians on that runway.”
Never mind that flying a group of Hawaiian models was so expensive, let alone paying for accommodation. Kamohoali’i knew he had to find a way. “This means nothing to the rest of the world, but to my people in the middle of the Pacific, this is the greatest achievement,” he said. Runway, it’s the same runway that everyone is on. He moves mountains.
Born and raised in Waimea, Hawaii, with aloha at heart, Kamoholiei, who runs the fashion company Desings, finds a way to make sure the culture is well-respected. As much as possible, he asked for the support of the community. Together, they raised $100,000 in four weeks to fly 35 Hawaiians to New York.
Models wearing Kamohoali’i kapa cloth, a traditional Hawaiian textile.
(Image credit: Courtesy of Kamoholiei)
There, Kamohoali and his team put on an amazing show not only about the clothes, but also about the cultural history behind them. Kamohoali opened the show with a traditional Hawaiian chant and played kapa (an indigenous Hawaiian cloth) as the models walked the runway. The show drew a well-deserved standing ovation, and put Kamohoali’i—and Hawaiian culture in general—on the international fashion map.
“Everybody was in tears, and the amazing thing was that it changed the way people thought about fashion,” reflects Kamoholi. “People are now saying come and share your story, as opposed to ‘come and share your clothes.’ That’s what our clothes are about – the history of Hawaiian designs is what makes them so powerful.
The two designs from Camoholie’s European fashion show.
(Image credit: Courtesy of Kamohoali)
Since the New York show, Kamohoali and his team have participated in three more prestigious fashion weeks: London, Paris and Milan. They’ve received rave reviews on all three, not to mention attention from international brands and comeback invitations. Hawaii news is made even now Documentary film About Kamohoali’s journey “from the Big Island to the Big Apple,” he was eventually nominated for an Emmy. But for Kamohoali, the praise is not the point. Most importantly, he introduced his culture and traditional values to the fashion scene – and paved the way for other Hawaiians to follow in his footsteps. Since then, five other Hawaiian designers have been invited to various fashion weeks around the world, and there’s no doubt more to come.
“Before the show, I told everyone, ‘It’s not just about us. “We’re the ones who are invited, but let’s do a great job of opening the door for others — because that’s Hawaiian style,” he said. “You attack everybody in Hawaii. Remember that this is not just for you, but for everyone in the house. Everywhere you go, you take it literally and in spirit.
Native Hawaiians invited to New York Fashion Week for the first time.
(Image credit: Courtesy of Kamoholiei)
Annie Daly’s book Island Art: Hawaiian Traditions and Practices for a Meaningful Life (Opens in a new tab) Features Kamohoali’i and other inspirational Hawaiians.
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