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In the year In 2021, fashion photographer and activist Amy America was arrested and fined by Russian authorities after staging a photo shoot for a political trial in Moscow, where 25 participants dressed in police uniforms surrounded the word ‘freedom’ written on ice.
The Russian-born photographer, who has worked with brands such as Vogue, Urban Outfitters, Gem and Calvin Klein, was charged by police with “organizing a protest”.
After Russia’s brutal invasion of Ukraine, the United States has used its voice and massive social media following to express its solidarity with the Ukrainian people and support the country’s ongoing war.
EuroNews Culture spoke to Amy America to learn more about her experience working with Vogue promoting LGBTQ+ rights and the changes in her life since the Russian invasion.
How would you describe your job?
“I mostly work in fashion images, but over time my work has become more political in nature. My work is very narrative-based. I’m always inspired by characters and stories. I feel like I’m trying to come up with a certain universe. I put in little details with a hidden easter egg meaning.
“I want my photos to look like they’re on film rather than staged fashion shots. I try to light things the same way, I’m lighting the scene, not the person.”
How did you get into photography?
“I started doing photography when I was a kid. It was such an emotional thing. I’m so grateful now because I didn’t care if my work was good. I was a teenager so I just did it because I liked it.”
“When I was 13, I got a camera for Christmas, and it was a time when DSLRs were becoming a big thing. And first, it became a medium where I could create in fashion without actually having to physically do the photography. I’m not a crafty person – I hate working with my hands.”
“Then I went to art school and started studying photo theory – that’s when I got into it and realized that photography is very special. It has this amazing ability to make us believe things and enter into worlds that aren’t real. It’s real.”
Which photography project are you most proud of?
“I would probably say my Vogue Russia cover. First, it was my childhood dream – I remember being a kid collecting Vogues. I remember saying to myself, ‘Don’t worry if you can’t shoot for them. That’s fine. You can still be a good photographer and not make it to Vogue.’ So the 24 I felt confident enough to get this cover when I was a year old.
“But the most important thing was that it was the first cover under the new editor, and she really wanted to change the direction of the magazine. It was a political cover about protests in Russia and people not having a voice. The title was called ‘We heard.’
What is your relationship with your native Russia?
“It looks like a very toxic family. I love Russia. I love a lot of people there and in many ways it’s been very good for me. But it’s very painful to see what’s happening.”
I was one of those people who really believed that we could change things – but since the war in Ukraine started in Russia, that didn’t really seem like an option.
“It feels really emotional and scary that you can’t be a part of this big part of you anymore. You have to distance yourself, you have to go and figure out how to rebuild yourself.”
“It’s a very difficult thing to realize that something in your nature is so toxic.”
“For the past few years, I’ve been doing a lot of advocacy work for freedom in Russia in different ways. So now I feel like it’s all for nothing, because nothing I do is going to pay off. The loss and suffering that country is going through right now… it’s really hard to go through.”
Have you experienced negativity or hostility since Russia invaded Ukraine?
“I speak a little, but less than I have ever expected. I mean, I am very vocal in my position on current affairs. And generally I feel that this is enough for people to trust you, especially when you constantly express your opinion, even before the invasion.”
A common theme in your photography is the idea of ’home’. You currently live in New York, but where is your home?
“I mean, I wrestled with this question even before the war. I was sent to England when I was 10, then when I was 15 I went to America and lived here until I was 20, before moving back to Russia. So in general, this idea of home has always felt very complicated.
“I still feel that Moscow is home and I feel that I love it very much. But what I love is the bubble in Moscow. And now it has burst very quickly. Now I don’t feel that there is a safe place in Moscow. .”
What was it like to be arrested and fined for your ‘freedom’ photo shoot?
“It’s funny because it seems amazing when it happens, and a year later, things like this happen every day. When I was arrested, everyone was disturbed. On Telegram, all the Russian media people looked like who does he have lawyers? Who can pull her?”. It was crazy. Now, almost everyone I know is arrested. So, this is just a really freaky understanding of Russian reality.”
“It was a very spontaneous experience. It was funny to look from the inside and see how dysfunctional and how pointless everything was. I felt incredibly guilty for all the people I dragged into it, but I think it made a big noise. It was worth it in the end. it was.”
Much of your work focuses on the experiences of queer communities and promoting LGBTQ+ equality. What does gay pride mean to you?
“It means coming to terms with who you are and not being afraid. And I think it’s not just about thinking honestly about it. It’s about enjoying life and living it how you want to.”
“I grew up in Russia with a lesbian mother and she was very scared. And I don’t want anyone to experience what she went through.”
Do you feel a responsibility to represent the LGBTQ+ community in your work?
“Definitely. I mean, I feel a responsibility to represent everyone who’s underrepresented. But also my work is often derived from personal things. So a lot of times it’s a fantasy for real people and real people in my life. Situations that I’ve been in. So definitely a lot of different queers come up a lot and always. I will try to keep an eye on that.
Your activism is more important than ever, with the Russian parliament recently moving to tighten restrictions on LGBTQ+ rights. What can people do to support equality and LGBTQ+ rights?
“Truly just shout. Don’t be afraid. More people need to find the inspiration, the courage to speak out, because when the disturbance is so great, no matter how hard you try, it can’t be calmed down. When. The fire is so big that you won’t have enough water to put it out.”
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
Watch the video above to listen to the full interview with Emmy America
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