How to wear a suit without a tie—more successfully than these world leaders

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When the head As President Biden, Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau and outgoing Italian Prime Minister Mario Draghi posed for a photo at last month’s G-7 summit in Germany, it was clear they had reached agreement on at least one issue. Although all seven men are shown wearing coats and white shirts, no collars are visible.

But they didn’t have a uniform policy on how to look polished without a silk knot to finish off their ensembles. Most were freed with only one shirt button, although Mr Draghi dared to release two. Outgoing British Prime Minister Boris Johnson appears to be flying faster than his office holders as he is shirtless and swaying in a frenzy. All in all, their outfits look slapdash, like they wore ties that morning, but whipped them off as the camera flashed. (Which is possible.)

“Disengaging is a way of saying, ‘Hey, I’m relaxed, and I’m just going to be honest with you,'” says Richard Thompson Ford, a law professor at Stanford University. How Fashion Rules Made History. But the rhetoric of the leaders has achieved the opposite. “They don’t look comfortable. There is one sad thing. [their outfits]” said Mr. Ford.

Absent parity can leave men looking ‘unfinished’.

The scene in Bavaria exacerbated the woes many men face: with dress codes relaxed and telegraphed on the rise, men were forced to dress for meetings, weddings, cocktail parties and, in most of Spain, without their trusty silk companions. issues. In the year On July 29, Spanish Prime Minister Pedro Sánchez urged public officials to “not go ahead with connections when it is not necessary (perhaps on air conditioning, although he did not specify)” to save energy.

“A lack of balance can make men look ‘unfinished’,” says Lauren A. Rothman, a personal stylist to politicians and businessmen in Washington, D.C. “I see many of my clients struggle…[They’re saying]’I had a designer tie in my collection and now [they] I feel so much. What do I do next?’

Doug Granat, co-founder of Stockholm tailor Saman Amel, says it’s especially important that the garment fits properly when there’s no silk thread to divert the eye. The jacket should sit well on your shoulders and hug the back of your neck, says Italy’s Mr. Draghi of the G-7’s fit (far left, above). A quiet and unstructured shoulder – rather than a boxy cord – is ideal, says London dressmaker Charlie Kesley-Hayford, because “the smooth line goes well with an open shirt.” Among other tips: High-waisted pants can help reduce the “expansion of white space in the middle of your body.”

Both tailors were very worried about the collar of Mr. Johnson’s fugitive shirt. Do everything you can to ensure that your neck remains submissively under your collar when Mr. Casey-Hayford goes untied. Choose longer, wider collars; Stretched collars; Button-down collars – or ditch the issue and wear a band-neck shirt. Mr Casey-Hayford’s main solution? One-piece collar. Cut from a single piece of fabric—rather than two, like regular collars—it has an irresistible wrap that “looks great without a tie.”

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Another danger of going steady: looking without that flash of color. So consider other ways to introduce character, Mr. Granat said. Avoid shiny, botox-soft worsted wool, and opt for tailored fabrics with a soft texture: brushed flannel, flecked melange, herringbone, or birdeye, a fabric with tiny holes like armadillo armor. No need for bright shades. Navy, chocolate or charcoal work well, Mr. Granat said. Textured fabrics “give your eye something to rest on without compromising style.”

Zach Garst, a tax consultant in Houston, applies the same thinking to his fan outfits. Since breaking ties after WFH, Mr Garst, 25, has been pairing his clothes with “more adventurous” key pieces, including a soft linen blend and a textured chambray number. He’s also experimenting with cashmere-linen polo shirts, saying, “It kind of elevates that technological, Mark Zuckerberg blazer and T-shirt thing that I don’t necessarily want to be a part of.”

To Robert Giamo, in McLean, Va. A restaurateur, it’s all about adding colorful touches. Mr Giamo, 70, said: “After the ban, I would never go without a pocket square and funky socks. When Mr. Giamo attended a wedding in recent months, he accessorized his sapphire-blue Canali suit with a blush-pink pocket square. And matching socks. “[The suit] “It doesn’t seem like it’s even close to being finished without them,” he said. “It’s a tough look.” And perhaps enough for the next G-7 forum.

KNOT-LEESS COMBOS

Three untucked bags with optional shirts to try on


Photo:

F. Martin Ramin/The Wall Street Journal, styling by Jill Telesnicki

1. A simple view

You can band-collar shirts Only Wear it without binding. A dull flannel jacket looks back-to-back; Pocket squares add flavor. jacket, $1,835, Drakes.com; shirt, $280, General Dispensary, 917-472-7018; pocket square, $45, ToddSnyder.com


Photo:

F. Martin Ramin/The Wall Street Journal, styling by Jill Telesnicki

2. A posh polo entered

Covered in tiny bumps, Birdseye’s suit needs no supporting players. A regular-ish, linen-blend, button-down polo completes the breezy affair. jacket, $895 with suit pants, ProperCloth.com; shirt, Similar styles for $275, TheArmoury.com


Photo:

F. Martin Ramin/The Wall Street Journal, styling by Jill Telesnicki

3. Happy empty neck

A one-piece collar rolls casually into a brushed-cashmere flannel jacket. Saman Amel Jacket, About $3,200, available in September, MrPorter.com; shirt, $195, p. Johnson, 917-533-5879; sunglasses, $385, GarrettLeight.com

The Wall Street Journal is not compensated for selling products by retailers listed in its articles. Frequently listed retailers are not the only retail outlets.

Copyright ©2022 Dow Jones & Company, Inc. All rights reserved. 87990cbe856818d5eddac44c7b1cdeb8

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