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In Lonely Plan-It, we take you step-by-step on how to plan the most complex travel adventures. Here, Eva Sandoval explains how she plans to travel around the Amalfi Coast using only public transportation.
Wine-dark seas, lemon groves and stacked pastel-colored houses sit spectacularly on the rugged coastline. It’s not a dream: you’re on Italy’s Amalfi Coast.
All you have to worry about now is getting to the most amazing destinations. Maybe you like to drive overseas; Maybe you entered as Jennifer Coolidge White Lotusan Italian dream port of cruising around on a Vespa with Peppa Pig’s pink scarf fluttering in the wind.
Let’s check the facts. The Amalfi Coast is difficult to navigate due to its steep-topped roads, hairpin bends and dangerous drop into the stormy sea. Driving through this popular region means dealing with crazy traffic, and parking is expensive – if you can find it. A scooter is convenient, but only if you are an experienced rider.
Now for the good news: there is an extensive public transportation network in the region that, if you plan carefully, will get you anywhere you want to go. As in Italy, public transport options can be sketchy – but trust me: they’re still better than driving the razor-narrow SS163 state road in high season.
Apart from Sorrento and Vietri sul Mare, this mountainous coast is not reached by the Italian train system. But there are buses and excellent fast ferries between cities as well as from Naples.
Read on to find out how to explore the best spots of the Amalfi Coast in five steps with just a ticket and a smile. Flowing pink scarf option.
Step 1: Create a waterproof itinerary…but be realistic
Find the right amount that suits your time
So much to see, so little time: believe me, I’m sorry. But if you’re relying on public transportation, it’s wise to limit your itinerary to just a few places and resist the urge to schedule two or more experiences on the same day. Here are the region’s best knowns, in order of public-transportation-friendliness.
Excellent coastal villages
The towns between Amalfi and Salerno are a breeze to get to by boat or the 5570 SITA bus (barring unforeseen issues). Note that the last ferry from Positano leaves in the afternoon in high season, with reduced service in low season. It is better to plan to leave by SITA bus.
Ravello
Hilltop Ravello is a short bus ride inland from Amalfi (SITA 5110). If you are based elsewhere, you will have to transfer.
The way of the gods
Take the 5080 bus from Amalfi to Agerola (Bomerano), the starting point for this spectacular cliff-top hike. The walk ends in the village of Nocelle, where you reward yourself with a lemon slushie stop, then walk the (1700!) steps to Positano, and catch a bus or ferry back home.
Beaches and natural wonders
The 5570 SITA bus takes you to the beaches of Fiordo di Furore and Conca dei Marini, as well as Grotta dello Smeraldo, a natural cave with phosphorescent green water. I recommend choosing just one – when you’re only a few kilometers apart, coordinating bus schedules can be difficult. My choice? If you don’t mind a lot of steps, do the Fiordo di Furore. This secluded pebble beach forms an unforgettable backdrop to the iconic Arch Bridge, and the atmosphere is pure bliss.
Sorrento Peninsula
The largest cities on the west coast of the peninsula – Sorrento, Vico Iccune and Castellammare – are connected by the Circumvesuviana railway line. Like Nerano, you’ll need the SITA Nord or EAV buses to reach the Baia di Ieranto crux and Punta Campanella hikes, as well as the Marina del Cantone beach stop.
Here’s where it gets tricky. Nerano main A small square It’s the start of the Baia d’Iranto walk – but it’s a 35-minute uphill schlep to Termini, where the Punta Campanella walk starts, and a 20-minute downhill to Marina del Cantone. Like me, you might be tempted to do all the Nerano experiences in one day – but if you value your health, I highly recommend it. Instead I recommend three unique itineraries.
Itinerary 1Package a caprese sandwichMade with tomatoes and juice Buffalo mozzarella. Take a bus to Nerano, then head to Baia di Ieranto, a stunning cliff-top beach with views of Capri.
Route 2Take the bus to Nerano and on to Termini to travel to Punta Campanella, the southern tip of the Sorrento peninsula. Back in Termini, reward yourself with cheese spaghetti alla Nerano at Ristorante Eughenes.
Itinerary 3: Get on the bus to Nerano and go down to the Marina del Cantone, where you will share the bay with the majestic yachts. Stop for lunch at Mary’s Beach or Ostello le Sirene, famous for its mermaid kitsch. (Or is it art?)
For more engaging experiences on the Sorrentine Peninsula or the Amalfi Coast, you’ll need to brave and get behind the wheel.
Step 2: Adjust your base.
Be strategic and consider your budget
Which city in the region serves as the best base for non-drivers? Amafi is your most strategic choice as it has direct connections to the points of interest on the coast and the Sorrento peninsula. Sorrento and Salerno are also great as they are major bus, train and ferry connections. For less expensive digs, consider Sant’Agnello, a village within walking distance of Sorrento. Atrani, a six-minute walk from Amalfi; Or Maiori, a village between Amalfi and Vietri sul Mare with good ferry service.
Step 3: Consider the time of year
Every season comes with a deal
It’s a poker game: If you visit the Amalfi Coast in high season (Easter to August), you’ll be fighting (yes, literally) for a spot on the buses. – Reduces significantly. Regardless of when you go, study transit times to avoid any unwanted surprises.
Leave plenty of time during your trip for buses to run behind schedule due to crazy summer traffic, or for the bus you’ve been waiting for in the hot sun to just zip past when it’s full and helpless. Always have water and a charged phone so you can track the buses and – if all else fails – call a taxi.
Step 4: Get technology with it
Apps are the public transport user’s friend.
Make things easier by downloading the Unico Campania app, which gives you real-time bus and train information and allows you (if you have a European credit card) to buy tickets. Sites like ferryhopper.it or traghettilines.it and their associated apps will give you ferry times and tickets. If you can’t buy tickets online or on your phone, you should go old-school and buy bus tickets at newsagents and tobacconists – look for the giant T sign. You can buy ferry tickets at the port.
Step 5: Choose your horse
Stay on land – or take to the sea
Bus or boat? The SITA bus runs at night and takes you to mountain villages and coastal natural wonders. Taking SITA is an unforgettable experience: you will experience pain and joy as the bus squeezes cars and scooters pass by, drivers honking their horns angrily or warning other vehicles.
If you’re just traveling along the coast, take the ferry, as they are more frequent and often faster, even in high season. And imagine the views from the sea as that magical coastal focus kicks in.
If I could do it all over again:
I could ride a Vespa. just kidding! (Or is it me?)
My best advice – apart from going to this region in high season – is not to pack too many experiences into one day like I did in Nerano. Just take it easy: pick a spot, sip a spritz and enjoy the pink sun sinking into the Gulf of Naples. After all, isn’t that why you came?
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