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Couturiers have a great deal of creative freedom, which allows them to get away with all kinds of outrageous hype, but theirs is like any other business.
Modesty seems to be selling particularly well to high-income women — and now a sizable group of men — from East Asia and the United Arab Emirates.
And so, bodies will remain at the center of couture history for spring 2023.
But this time, the way designers chose to cover it with high neck, long sleeves and hoods is interesting.
Giambattista Valli took the volume to extremes, so that “some of his really large dresses consisted of hundreds of meters of tulle, bordered in vain.”
There were no daywear in the collection, although one could imagine a member of the royal family sporting cardigan-like jackets from Valley embroidery with silk slacks. Tentacle-like dresses on Alexis Mabile and Stéphane Rolland.
On the backstage of his show, Maison Rabih Kayrouz spoke about how the coronavirus pandemic has sparked a demand for “covering, protective clothing” among its customers.
This resulted in sweeping windshields and lean-tos that were, as WWD’s Lily Templeton wrote, “deceptively simple in appearance, seamless and interesting in their construction”—quiet luxury for the one percent who prefer to fly under the radar.
Modesty is in vogue, with celebrities from Paris Hilton to Naomi Biden citing Grace Kelly’s lace gown designed by MGM’s Helen Rose as inspiration behind their own. This season, Maison Sara Chraibi, Zuhair Murad, Chanel and Valentino have made sure that a coat buyer can easily make modifications in white or ivory options, ensuring that no hint of leather is visible.
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