Sports Fashion: Outdoor Girls 1800-1960

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by Karla Klein Albertson

Memphis, Tenn. – When you analyze it, you know more about the history of women’s sports equipment than everyone thinks – information gathered from watching movies and news reports on television. History of bathing suits? Collected by watching Esther Williams dive into the pool million dollar mermaid, 1952, or Annette Funicello dances in beach party, In 1963

Live broadcasts of the international Olympics and tennis tournaments, as well as documentaries of past events, showcase fashion for the increasingly diverse sports in which all women now compete. Even Regency-era dramas regularly featured a romantic equestrian scene in a long dress, showing how to mount a horse.

In their honor, the issue is now presented in a scholarly and engaging way by the American Federation of Fine Arts (AFA) in the touring exhibition “Sporting Fashion: Outdoor Girls 1800 to 1960.” About 65 complete collections along with accessories and ephemera are on display – all drawn from the FIDM Museum at the Los Angeles Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising.

Michael Weij, curator at the American Federation of the Arts, wrote Antiques and Arts Weekly: “AFA is delighted to work with FIDM Museum to bring ‘Sports Fashion’ to audiences across the country. This exhibition is a unique and interesting look at how the evolution of women’s sportswear over the last 160 years has happened in parallel with social freedom and autonomy. The show’s various costumes reflect women’s commitment, determination and joy in physical matters.

Fortunately, while waiting for the chance to see the mannequins wearing them in person, interested collectors can order one of the most attractive catalogs to appear in a long time. The authors are Kevin Jones, curator of the FIDM Museum, and co-curator Christina Johnson, with a foreword by—wait for it—Serena Williams.

The tennis legend wrote: “Walking through the collections at the FIDM museum, I found myself saying, ‘I can’t believe women wear this.’ But in other situations, I laugh, ‘I’ll wear this today.’ While clothing may once have limited our athletic performance, today it is something that allows us to compete with confidence. We cannot forget that fashion is also fun. In a historically male-dominated world, it can be a valuable tool for empowering female athletes, giving them a form of self-expression and individuality.

Two photos of tennis outfits accompany the introduction. One features the stunning Althea Gibson winning the Wimbledon Women’s Singles Championship in 1958. She wears a traditional dress, a white dress with a belt. Another is that Williams herself will be sporting a black Nike stretch bodysuit on Day Three of the 2018 French Open.

The exhibition and catalog are divided into broad sections – “Making Waves” shows the evolution of swimwear. Tennis – and golf – have come down to “catching the ball”. The opening chapter, “Going Out,” refers to the expectation that you’ll be wearing a certain type of ensemble just for a walk in the park.

In most cases, these fashions are sports created for a certain class who have money for different wardrobes. A pioneer mother who wore the same thing for farming, cooking, and that favorite sport of slapping a stream, cannot play by the same rules.

In addition to full-page illustrations, set photos of the event, the catalog features a mix of contemporary photographs, sports highlights in paintings and prints, and short biographies of interesting but lesser-known female athletes. One was dedicated to Santa Monica, California, weightlifter Abby “Pudgy” Stockton (Neville, 1917-2006), who became a personal trainer with her own women’s gym. As she rightly said, how can you do anything if you don’t have strength?

Another biography of prize-winning Australian equestrian Esther Stace (née Mumford, 1871-1918) captures her in action as she clears a high jump in a long skirt. The men in the background are surprised. The lesson is clear: women who want to participate in sports can find a way to excel despite the limitations of clothing.

Free climbing – feet on a ledge, claws on nails – is one of the most challenging mountain sports. One of the most striking vintage photographs is a 1908 double-page spread of Lucy Smith and Pauline Ranken of the Ladies’ Scottish Climbing Club showing Salisbury Crags, Edinburgh. They are seen wearing ankle length dresses and slippery looking leather boots. As the section “Throwing on the Mountain” explains, practicality eventually led to the adoption of split skirts and knickerbockers worn by men.

As the authors of the catalog put it: “Throughout the centuries, sportswomen have dressed according to the requirements of their games, their stations in life, and the cultural aspects of their time.” Sports fashions have evolved out of necessity and evolved from one era to the next: old, restrictive styles adapted to fit increasingly active bodies, and innovative modes designed for games that capture the popular imagination. Some sports have stood out over time because of the physical and costume options, such as equestrian with the costume and swimming with the costume. Eventually, funny female athletes needed uniforms, and their hard-working fans won by wearing the latest sportswear. By the mid-twentieth century, these categories of clothing standardized team gear and mix-and-matched into a variety of women’s wardrobes. Moving forward, textile technology has transformed established styles into trendy active and casual wear.

A personal favorite from the exhibition is on the cover of the catalog – a fully finished 1930’s motorcyclist in black leather jodhpurs with gauntlets and a wide belt at the back sporting a mirror. While some of the men were shocked, others thought for sure, maybe she was riding alongside me.

Ironically, “sports fashion” has become all the rage. We may not play basketball or run relays, but we do have an expensive pair of athletic shoes in the closet. Even if we miss class for two weeks, we still go to the grocery store in our yoga clothes. From now on, let’s remember the efforts of women to get the opportunity to wear our sports equipment. And support women at all levels and all ages in sports.

The show will be on view at the Dixon Gallery and Gardens in Memphis until October 16, where it will continue to travel for several years. Dixon Director Kevin Sharp said: “The exhibition is fantastic, and it’s fantastic to be working with such an outstanding organization as FIDM. The exhibit’s organizers spent more than a decade collecting these items, and we’re excited to display them in Dixon to share with Memphis.

Dixon Gallery and Gardens is located at 4339 Park Ave. For information 901-761-5250; The full tour schedule for “Sports Fashion” is at www.amfedarts.org. A special catalog can be ordered from the Dixon Gallery, the American Federation of Fine Arts, or through online booksellers.

Sports Fashion: Outdoor Girls 1800 to 1960 by Kevin L. Jones and Christina M. Johnson with Kirsten Purtich; Foreword by Serena Williams. American Federation of Arts and Crafts, New York City, 2020. Photo courtesy of the American Federation of the Arts.

Private changing stall, 1900. ©FIDM Museum, courtesy of the American Federation of Fine Arts, photo by Brian Davis.

Outdoor Girl’s Scarf, 1946. ©FIDM Museum, courtesy of the American Federation of the Arts, photo by Brian Davis.

Swimming pool set, 1950s. ©FIDM Museum, courtesy of the American Federation of the Arts, photo by Brian Davis.

A masterful set with pattu sweater, 1920s. ©FIDM Museum, courtesy of the American Federation of the Arts, photo by Brian Davis.

A set of skates, 1810s. ©FIDM Museum, courtesy of the American Federation of the Arts, photo by Brian Davis.

A set of skates, 1930s. ©FIDM Museum, courtesy of the American Federation of the Arts, photo by Brian Davis.

Riding set, 1890s. ©FIDM Museum, courtesy of the American Federation of the Arts, photo by Brian Sanderson.

Baseball set with Spalding cleats, 1930s. ©FIDM Museum, courtesy of the American Federation of the Arts, photo by Brian Davis.

Bowling set, 1950s. ©FIDM Museum, courtesy of the American Federation of the Arts, photo by Brian Davis.

A collection of delights by Spalding Knitwear, 1900s. ©FIDM Museum, courtesy of the American Federation of the Arts, photo by Brian Davis.

Behind the scenes of “Sports Fashion”. ©FIDM Museum, courtesy of the American Federation of the Arts, photo by Brian Davis.

Behind the scenes of “Sports Fashion” is Kevin L. Jones adjusts the shoelaces. ©FIDM Museum, courtesy of the American Federation of the Arts, photo by Brian Davis.

Behind the scenes of “Sports Fashion”, pilot collection with Abercrombie & Fitch skull cap and mittens, 1930s. ©FIDM Museum, courtesy of the American Federation of the Arts, photo by Brian Davis.

Behind the scenes of “Sports Fashion” a sunbathing set with a Jantzen swimsuit, 1930s. ©FIDM Museum, courtesy of the American Federation of the Arts, photo by Brian Davis.