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There was a neon sign. Spots in bright multi-colored. Color-blocked pieces of silk and organza were woven together to form long column blouses. Thick clusters of sequins creating intricate floral patterns. Octopus and psychedelic fish run down the shoulders to the sleeves.
Electricity. A new era. Unapologetically stylish. In the year For more ways to describe Hussain Rehar’s debut work in 2017, you can delve deeper into his fashion dictionary. It was very unusual compared to the beautiful sartorial fiber that dominated the fashion scene and made people sit up and take notice.
Freshly graduated from the Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design (PIFD), after a few months of working with designer Khadijah Shah, Hussain launched his own eponymous label. His beauty was so unique that it immediately caught the eye. As soon as you see some designs while scrolling through Instagram, you wonder who the designer is.
This question is quickly researched on price, storage and whether the garment can be easily purchased. “[He] He may be one of the fashion innovators of the future,” I wrote in my first review of his work.
Not long ago – in March 2018 to be exact – Hussain made his catwalk debut at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week (PSFW) in Lahore. At the end of the show, Hussain was as fashionable as the clothes he created as he walked out with several models. Dressed in a striped jumpsuit with a zipper down the front, he smiled shyly as he took a bow.
Since then, Hussain has become a fixture in Lahore’s fashion circuit, making waves back when fashion weeks were still in effect and even deftly defying the pandemic, releasing a series of collections online for his growing customer base.
As of now, his personal fashion statements have to match the fashion that defines his celebrity: eye-popping colors, power suits, loose kurta-pyjamas are all complemented by an impressive array of accessories. It’s a wardrobe to die for – and it’s a testament to how much this Gujranwala youngster loves clothes.
Long before a young Hussain Rehar started designing fashion, he would put together his own clothes for family gatherings. His relatives will be surprised. Perhaps Gujranwala – a city of sun-baked fields and struggling audiences in dusty Akharas – had never encountered such a fashionista before!
“I’ve always loved putting outfits together,” he tells me. “The closets in my house are full of clothes that I constantly buy and wear in different ways. I love to dress up and go places!”
This entry made me curious: What did nobody do during the corona virus shutdown when they had nowhere to go? Hussain laughs, “I used to wear my clothes and eat with my mother.”
His personal desire to stand out translated into creating clothes that stood out. Over a career spanning more than six years, Hussain has refined his craft, working on patterns and finishes and striking a balance between design that is commercially viable and yet unique.
He won two awards – Designer of the Year Demi-Couture at the 2019 Homme Style Awards and Fashion Design (Luxury Pret) at last year’s Luxe Style Awards – and held a solo show in 2020, which was temporarily suspended due to Covid-19.
Although the coronavirus has brought down sales for luxury fashion in general, Hussain’s business continues to mushroom. The clothing is seen everywhere – worn by parties, weddings and celebrities – and has seamlessly matched the commercial module with the ubiquitous demand for fast fashion. He has his many admirers – and some critics too.
“I couldn’t come up with a plan [second] It was a solo show because the business was doing so well,” says Hussain. “Customers want to see new collections every few weeks. There is a constant pressure to keep creating new designs and there was never enough time to create a Kate Walk collection.”
His first solo show, which took place at a time when most designers were still trying to recover from their losses during the pandemic, took people by surprise. On a crisp winter afternoon, Hussain turned the backyard of a private house in Lahore into a highway. A tree, right in the middle, made the main focal point; The models walked around and gathered under it for photographs.
The collection was a deep dive into the many festivities that make up a traditional Pakistani wedding, with dohol dhakaka and a swirl of colors. Unlike most solo shows, the setup wasn’t elaborate or over the top. Instead, it was simple and effective, without the help of fashion councils, a new brand that chose to flex its fashion muscles on its own.
Having previously only shown at joint fashion weeks, has flying solo helped Hussain’s brand? “It definitely helped create more awareness of the brand,” he said. “Having a co-designer show at fashion week shows that we’re willing to stand in the spotlight without making a fuss. Nothing was happening in the local fashion scene at the time. My show was one of the first shows since the pandemic. I think people found that refreshing. It gave them hope that things would get better.” .
But the show took place almost two years ago. Since then, Hussain has stepped away from the catwalk, though he has been churning out collections ranging from heavy-duty formals to funky luxe to unstitched fabrics. His designs are unique and very beautiful, but certainly not as avant-garde as his first collections. Has Hussain downgraded his talent to attract more business?
“I still love a really cool design, but ultimately the clothes have to sell,” he admits. “Even internationally, designers can make crazy statements on the catwalk, but they make more subtle versions for retail. With no fashion weeks, my priority now is to create clothes that are different but at the same time customer-friendly.
He continues, “I think my customers will appreciate the brand’s ideology, which combines traditional hand embroidery with modern silhouettes and colors. It may be marketable but it’s not boring. I make sure the fabric and embroidery are of the highest quality and I try to keep prices competitive.
“And then, there’s always so much variety. Each collection has a different vibe and aesthetic than the previous one. Even before creating a collection, I think about how I want to market it, the model and the shooting process. Once the concept is matched with the designs, the images will have more impact. The shot should not be elaborate. I still prefer the unique product oriented photography.
The image he creates is so eye-catching, I agree that it is calculated to make you want to make a beeline for his online store. However, some of these shoots – not all – have occasionally been criticized for being too similar to other designers. The latest collection, released last fall, for example, drew immediate comparisons to the international brand’s shoot released the same year. The colors and composition are uncannily similar.
It has also been suggested at times that Hussain is heavily ‘inspired’ by some major brands from across the border. How inspired is he, really?
“I think motivation is a very common thing,” he said. “We spend a lot of time flipping through fashion magazines, so sometimes we unknowingly record certain images. Now that my brand is more established, I’m very concerned about any repetition. Still, I don’t mind being inspired by a brand and decorating a shoot in a different way or putting jewelry in a certain style. Above all, the design must be my own.
Handcrafted decorators have sometimes criticized Hussain for saying that he may have a way with beadwork and stonework, but his embroidery lacks delicacy and finesse. Does he agree?
Of course, he doesn’t. In fact, he starts laughing. “I have my own beauty. If Elie Saab creates beautiful jewelry and Alexander McQueen goes above and beyond with a thick layer of sequins, does that mean one is less than the other? My style may be different from others – in fact, I want to be like that!
“When I create luxury clothing, I want it to be elegant and shiny. I combine sequins and stones in certain patterns to create that look and aim for a specific price bracket. On the other hand, the traditional bridal wear that I create has very delicate hand embroidery and is affordable.
It has also dipped its toes into the booming market for non-stitched fabric, releasing seasonal lawn collections and winter wear. how is that
“Very well,” he says, “The non-woven fabric market is huge. One of my brothers is handling the non-woven fabric market. The other is looking after the overall financial situation. His is a family-run business, obviously. “Yes, I’m not good with numbers, so my brothers joined me.
Was there any pressure to return to Gujranwala after graduating from Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design (PIFD)?
“No, my family and I always knew that I would start my career in Lahore.”
It has only one brick and mortar store in Lahore so far. Are you planning to expand to more stores or are you focusing more on online growth?
Hussain said, “So far we are happy with the studio in Lahore. “It caters not only to Lahore, but to all the surrounding cities in Punjab. And the online world is amazing, it can’t be beat. You put a countdown timer on Instagram to launch a new collection and suddenly you’re in a global marketplace.”
After starting a new line, overnight orders are very high. It means you are doing something right. We take great care to ensure timely delivery. We want the customer to come back to us again.
How does he think it has improved over time? “I definitely know my market well. When I started, I wanted to constantly experiment and try new techniques. Now, I understand that most importantly, the clothes should be wearable.
I have gained more experience when it comes to selecting embroidery and textiles. Right at the beginning, I use the wrong thread and sometimes the sequins can’t hold in place and they fall off. Now I know better!”
The threads definitely don’t fray and the strings are in place, flashy. Modern. Mysterious Eclectic. High fashion is rolled and adjusted for the desi palette. As I said earlier, one can continue.
Originally published by Dawn, ICON, July 24, 2022.
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