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PARIS (AP) — After Milan, the fashion world’s attention turned to the finale of the ready-to-wear shows in Paris on Tuesday, as the industry looks to the future with all the latest fall trends.
But scenes in the French capital will look to the past this week, paying tribute to recently deceased designers Vivienne Westwood and Paco Rabanne.
Here are some highlights from Tuesday’s Fall-Winter 2023-2024 collections, including Dior:
Dior rebels
A real and colorful organic world awaits guests in the Tuileries Gardens of Paris.
A stunning Dior installation of a giant octopus spanned the length and breadth of the runway, while colorful fabric tents lit up with thousands of tiny lights. It was the work of Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos, who sought to explore how organic form interacted with the “artisanal savoir-faire feminine realm.” It made a stunning backdrop for the paparazzi’s flashbacks, especially for guests including model Elle McPherson, K-pop star Jisoo and actresses Maisie Williams and Charlize Theron.
If the décor seems futuristic, designer Maria Grazia Chiuri has used the past as a touchstone for the clothes, resulting in plenty of fun — but less flair.
Three women – the sister of the house’s founder, Catherine Dior, a heroine of the French resistance, as well as the French singers Edith Piaf and Juliette Greco, each described as “rebellious, at once strong and fragile” – were muses in this collection. He channeled the 1950s Christian Dior triumphant day.
He exuded an old-timey air in a faded black leather men’s jacket, wrinkled houndstooth skirt, and wrinkled woolen socks.
Elsewhere, sweaters and skirts made more voluminous additions to the shoulders or hips in the thick post-war fabrics. A black textured dress with thousands of embellished flowers cut a nice androgynous figure underneath a white shirt and tie. An oval fabric with shiny metal thread sewn into it, showing the skill of the Dior atelier.
Chiuri’s motivational tactics impressed Theron, who told the AP: “She loves women. And in women in love, a woman understands that she is feminine, but she is also masculine. We are vulnerable and we are strong. We are opposites. We’re a little bit of everything, and I love that she has that wisdom.”
Saint Laurent accentuates the shoulders
Sizzling organ music, incense and dark lighting led VIPs like Dua Lipa, Rose and Catherine Deneuve down a magical black runway dimly lit by five hanging gold chandeliers.
The space was meant to evoke the lobby of the InterContinental Hotel, which, the house says, is where YSL presented couture collections for decades until 2001.
Whatever the inspiration, it was clear that drama was in the air for Anthony Vaccarello this fall—which shows that the lauded Saint Laurent designer is in a creative mood.
This season, theatrically sculpted and long shoulders define silhouettes. The plunging shoulders — in flowing gowns, miniskirts and tuxedo “tail-jumps” over pencil skirts — were so large that bras and sweaters could literally hang from scaffolding. So big, one fashionista opined, that they could sweep the walls of Paris’s famously narrow corridors.
The result was a bold, top-heavy look reminiscent of the 1980s — with early nouveau styles, like big hoop earrings and pointed-toe heels.
Some look mysterious, like a pearl satin top with a hood and a shouldered, long-legged model wearing skinny pants.
Elsewhere there was a play on transparency for muslin, chiffon and crepe-de-chin fabrics alongside see-through stockings.
MAME KUROGOUCHI, past and future
Japanese ready-to-wear brand Mame Kurugochi deftly straddles the past and the present, blending traditional clothing practices with cutting-edge technology.
This was in full view of the fall lows of the 80s – a decade that could have been too low to be happy.
A gray pantsuit with crisp, clean lines and a diagonal shift had a futuristic feel. A black scarf draped around the neck like a hand pulled down the shoulders, evoking a black space-age fanny pack cummerbund.
A pared-down color palette created a sense of cleanliness that worked well with the 80s references – wide, flat wool silhouettes, hoods and chunky top-heavy ensembles.
VAQUERA starts to shine
“Naughty Dress” read one colorful T-shirt on Vaquera’s rather saucy collection. Although the look was slightly kinky in the show that inches up the flesh, it takes on studded chokers, bare torsos, shredded slave gear and a lot of 90s grunge and denim jeans.
This was the second show in Paris for designers Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee, who rose to fame six years ago in New York wearing the iconic American flag gown. After last year’s more commercial season, the duo are back on their heels.
The black-heavy, compact 12-look display begins with a masked head and a one-breasted nude female body. The other breast is covered by the model’s gloved hand. It will be difficult to wear it on the street, but it has activated guest cameras. Next, for volume and edge – and on the edge, black cotton made of countless shots. Dressed in a skirt to evoke slavery clothing, he wears a slave mask with a woolen case along with a warm hat.
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