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And for Chabi, instead of top-down reporting, it opens up an important dialogue. “I’ve got a lot of people like that, I don’t agree with what you’re saying. It’s good, but at least it’s human with human. For example, it’s an open conversation rather than a one-way conversation from magazine to person.”
Working with next-gen fashion analysts
Content-rich social media reviews can be beneficial for brands. “While style is easy to view and quick to scroll through, journalistic content requires more engagement from viewers — resulting in longer video viewing times,” says Rob Jewell, chief development officer of tech-enabled growth marketing firm Power Digital. “Story-focused content ultimately helps create more brand recall.” He added.
TikTokers like Lee want to move away from the way brands typically work with fashion analysts – the “buy this product, buy it” model. For this SS23 season, she is channeling her content into a more editorial video series than the usual green screen videos to differentiate herself from the growing critical community on social media and attract new brand partners.
“The success of influencers like Lee is a clear indication that brands need to give influencers more than product — behind-the-scenes moments, how products are created, stories and how people experience their brand — to give them content to engage with,” Jewell says.
Brands can also use fashion critics as mentors, using their deep knowledge to educate and inform strategy, says Karassoulis. For example, Fin now consults for companies such as fashion technology app Idoru.
Critics and commentators’ coverage often referred to talents like Hildreth and Lee as “fashion outsiders”. However, most critics are experienced and connected to the industry. “I never want him to be an insider with an outsider, because what does that mean?” Lee says. I think it’s smart to use terms and think of TikTokers as outsiders. Platforms are powerful and even though I don’t work at Hearst or Condé Nast, I know they’re listening.” (Vogue business (owned by Condé Nast).
Hildreth has just started working. Paper As a writer for Liberty Magazine during NYFW, she works alongside posting her own opinions. For her, it has always been her desire to use Tik Tok content as a springboard for traditional media. “I definitely don’t want to be controlled by sponsorships and things like that and not be able to say what I want to say,” she said. But, on the other hand, there is power in having a rental magazine behind you.
On the other hand, Chabi believes in the power of the individual. “There were fashion analysts before us. And there were platforms like Diet Prada that talked to people about fashion. But I feel like today, we’ve reached a point of accountability where people want to see your name, your face and your thoughts. People want to define who is behind these thoughts and contextualize them.
Comments, questions or comments? Email us. feedback@voguebusiness.com.
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