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Denim made its mark on workwear at Copenhagen Fashion Week with low rise, color and subtle nods.
Ghani’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection shared the common grass with Lewis, the latest “See Now, Buy Now” from the Danish brand. Inspired by Mother Nature and an interest in gardening, the Levi x Gani collection features at least 55 percent certified organic cotton and water-efficient natural dyes derived from plants and minerals. The result is “simple silhouettes” with muted yellows, pinks, reds and lavender hues that complement vintage indigo washes.
The colorful collaboration fits in with Gani’s creative director Diet Refstrup’s vibrant vision for S/S ’23. Refstrup says the “Joyride” set echoes the sense of freedom and creativity she gets every morning, listening to music through her headphones and running her bike. “Those 15 minutes are complete. [mine] To cherish,” she said. “My mind is open and so are my thoughts. This collection is really about the feeling.
Cold-shoulder dresses, pleated skirts and cargo pants collide with leopard print, fuzzy textures, waves and cowboy boots. Others include jeans with red metallic foil, white and ecru jeans, overpainted green jeans and a washed out black mini wrap dress.
It was also home to two apcyclical collaborations. Gani teamed up with British stalwart Barbour on a variety of upcycled wax jackets and 66° North on recycled nylon and polyester pieces.
“I’m a collaborative startup,” says Refstrup. “I love when the chemistry works and the ideas flow. As an industry, especially if we want to make fashion more accountable, we need to collaborate more. No brand can do it alone, no matter how hard they try. We need to work together.”
Stockholm-based Hope balances dressing with utilitarian fashion. Known for posting clothes in both men’s and women’s sizes since 2017, the S/S 23 collection featured genderless items like a washed-out black trucker jacket, straight-leg jeans and jumpsuits. The brand tipped its hat to trends with gray and lavender and color-blocked black jeans.
Schneiderman offers white jeans with bright indigo dye effects. Bleached denim skirts and dresses added an ethereal look to Jade Cropper’s collection. Washed jeans were styled with a monochromatic top and a neutral trench coat. Layered hems in contrasting indigo shades add depth to Munthe’s jeans and denim shorts.
Dark indigo denim provides the foundation for Saks Potts’ holiday-inspired collection of 70s-inspired halterneck dresses in liquid gold and dresses sprinkled with Barbie pink pailettes. Wide-leg jeans hung low on the waist, denim blazers and matching front-slit dresses paired with bikini tops. Both jeans and jackets had deep cuffs.
Opera sports Y2K era front tie cardigans with cropped Carpenter jeans and a denim mini skirt. Gestuze combines the hallmarks of joggers and cargos into a single jean. A looser version was styled with a metallic silver bikini top, while a light-washed denim skirt, cropped jacket and jeans featured crystal accents.
Patchwork Denim was a common theme in (Di)vision’s collection. Zip-up jackets with long sleeves, low-rise jeans and work shirts were seen in many yellow denim swatches—some splashed with dye. The brand has also experimented with printed patchwork and doom motifs. (D) Visions went into Y2K with flared legs, low-rise jeans and ripped jeans.
Lattimeier cut the side seams of his jeans to reveal his full legs, while PLN stayed true to his punk-goth roots by taking an aggressive approach to black denim with monochromatic patchwork, cutouts and rips.
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