Fashion: Anti-fit: The right fit

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If you grew up anytime within the last two decades, you would have worn clothes that were tight and slim-fitting. The rise of the anti-fit trend is a direct reaction to that, helped by hip-hop fashion, athleisure and then, thanks largely in part to the pandemic, people working from home more, and the need for absolute comfort, while still looking put-together. Well, according to all of this year’s fashion bibles, you can now wear oversized, loose clothing and be in vogue. The anti-fit macro-trend is actually set to be the most followed fashion trend this century. What a win!

First and foremost, anti-fit does not mean sack-like, oversized silhouettes that don’t have any pattern details; they’re just not made exactly to match your body’s contour, and the fit is such that it does not cling to the body. That doesn’t mean that you look ‘messy’ or unkempt. The whole point is to be comfortable and look good.

The seven anti-fit stylings we’re presenting to you today are easy to pull off, trendy and most of all, comfortable.

The Tiffany’s trench

Team it with bucket hats, sneakers and fanny packs to elevate the effortlessly cool look; Trench coat and pants by United Colors of Benetton; Oversized flats by Charles & Keith (Hari Nair)
Team it with bucket hats, sneakers and fanny packs to elevate the effortlessly cool look; Trench coat and pants by United Colors of Benetton; Oversized flats by Charles & Keith (Hari Nair)

The fashion industry has been obsessed with this since Audrey Hepburn donned a Burberry trench in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The iconic designs from the film still impact our wardrobes 60 years later.

Pull it off

1. Contemporary interpretations of the trouser-trench combo with embellishments like colourful lapels is the ‘it’ anti-fit look.

2. With oversized clothes, less is more. Keep accessories to a minimum and opt for clutch bags and simple footwear.

3. Neutral tones like grey, white, and earthy tones are the best colour choices for a look like this.

Expert’s take

Kunal Anil Tanna
Kunal Anil Tanna

“Anti-fit works for all body types; it is a versatile silhouette. You can team it with bucket hats, sneakers and fanny packs to elevate the effortlessly cool, comfy look. Avoid adding waist belts or anything too structured to the look,” suggests fashion designer, Kunal Anil Tanna.

The long white shirt

You must be aware of how you’re playing with the volume on your body; Shirt by Genes Lecoanet Hemant; Pants by United Colors of Benetton; Shoes by Onitsuka Tiger (Hari Nair)
You must be aware of how you’re playing with the volume on your body; Shirt by Genes Lecoanet Hemant; Pants by United Colors of Benetton; Shoes by Onitsuka Tiger (Hari Nair)

Dior Homme, George Condo, Dries van Noten, and Yusuke Takahashi for Issey Miyake all created white shirts with an anti-fit twist for their spring/summer 22/23 runway collections, but this has always been a staple in anti-fit cupboards.

Dior Homme, George Condo, Dries van Noten, and Yusuke Takahashi for Issey Miyake all created white shirts with an anti-fit twist
Dior Homme, George Condo, Dries van Noten, and Yusuke Takahashi for Issey Miyake all created white shirts with an anti-fit twist

Pull it off

1. You can never go wrong with the timeless pairing of an oversized button-down white shirt with classic jeans.

2. Pair it with large clutches, watches, hats, earrings and bags.

3. Boots, sneakers or heels are all suitable finishing touches.

Expert’s take

Shivan & Narresh
Shivan & Narresh

 “When pairing anti-fit clothing, you must be aware of how you are playing with the volume on your body. For example, if you intend to go big in terms of volume on the top, it is important to ensure that the bottom is relatively a straighter fit to restore proportionate balance. On the contrary, picking up a voluminous bottom can work well with a well-fitting knitted top or even a relaxed-fit, tapered top. 

“It has to be an extension of your personality because if you wear an anti-fit fashion that does not match your style, it can look like you are floating in the outfits,” say fashion designers, Shivan & Narresh.

New Yorker style

If you are plus size, buy oversized jackets and shirts and style them with any of your outfits; Jumpsuit by November Noon; Overcoat by Pèro; Earrings by The Jewel Factor; Flats by Charles & Keith (Hari Nair)
If you are plus size, buy oversized jackets and shirts and style them with any of your outfits; Jumpsuit by November Noon; Overcoat by Pèro; Earrings by The Jewel Factor; Flats by Charles & Keith (Hari Nair)

A memorable Carrie Bradshaw look from Sex and the City is her glitzy, vintage-inspired panelled linen jumpsuit designed by Claud Montanna. 

A silk floral blazer by Dries Van Noten was layered over the jumpsuit, which created history in styling, and has been emulated by people all over the globe. Here’s how easy it is to do.

A memorable Carrie Bradshaw look from Sex and the City is her glitzy, vintage-inspired panelled linen jumpsuit designed by Claud Montanna
A memorable Carrie Bradshaw look from Sex and the City is her glitzy, vintage-inspired panelled linen jumpsuit designed by Claud Montanna

Pull it off

1. Pick a jumpsuit in one block colour; go for high-quality materials that are structured and therefore complement your shape. 

2 . Layer it with a straight cardigan or a waterfall jacket and long vests.

Expert’s take

Shahin Mannan
Shahin Mannan

“Anti-fit clothing is always an excellent choice, if appropriately styled. If you are plus size, buy oversized jackets and shirts and style them with any of your outfits,” says fashion designer, Shahin Mannan.

Timeless style

If you are short, never wear an oversized outfit with another oversized item; Jacket by Shahin Manan; Dress by Genes Lecoanet Hemant; Bracelet and earrings by Forest of Chints; Rings by The Jewel Factor; Shoes by Charles & Keith (Hari Nair)
If you are short, never wear an oversized outfit with another oversized item; Jacket by Shahin Manan; Dress by Genes Lecoanet Hemant; Bracelet and earrings by Forest of Chints; Rings by The Jewel Factor; Shoes by Charles & Keith (Hari Nair)

An entire generation of American women put a lot of effort into dressing like Jacqueline Kennedy, the former First Lady of the United States of America and the most influential fashion icon of the 1960s and 1970s. Cape-blazers, tailored coats, strapless skirts, and pillbox hats have epitomised the Jackie-O look.

The Jackie-O look
The Jackie-O look

Pull it off

1. The all-black look is elevated when it includes a black skirt and cape blazer.

2. Complete the look with leather sandals, red lipstick and a matching leather handbag. 

Expert’s take

“Slim patterns might help you balance an oversized ensemble. You can wear a loose shirt with skinny pants, pencil skirts or leggings. If you are short, never wear an oversized outfit with another oversized item,” explains fashion designer, Shahin Mannan. 

The Madrasi plaid 

Remember to balance out the proportions while mixing and have fun in bright and peppy combinations; Skirt and top by United Colors of Benetton; Coat by Limerick; Shades by Emporio Armani; Earrings by The Jewel Factor; Shoes by Charles & Keith (Hari Nair)
Remember to balance out the proportions while mixing and have fun in bright and peppy combinations; Skirt and top by United Colors of Benetton; Coat by Limerick; Shades by Emporio Armani; Earrings by The Jewel Factor; Shoes by Charles & Keith (Hari Nair)

According to colour theorists, wearing a bright outfit can improve your mood, so, if you’re looking for brighter colours to enhance your spirits, check out Tory Burch’s Fall 22 collection for some colourful Madras plaids.

Tory Burch’s Fall 22 collection
Tory Burch’s Fall 22 collection

Pull it off

1. Create a vibrant and colourful anti-fit look in a gathered Madras checked skirt with oversized jackets or classic trench coats. 

2. Wear it with a printed top or shirt with a plaid skirt. 

3. You can even wear printed shoes or carry off a printed bag with this look.

Expert’s take

Amritha Ram
Amritha Ram

 “Mixing prints and plaids always creates an illusion, which also works great for plus size. Remember to balance out the proportions while mixing and have fun in bright and peppy combinations,” says fashion designer, Amritha Ram.

Cool caftans

Combine an oversized caftan or shirt with a sultry shift dress and a large obi belt (Hari Nair)
Combine an oversized caftan or shirt with a sultry shift dress and a large obi belt (Hari Nair)

Elizabeth Taylor-inspired caftans are becoming wardrobe sin qua-non as fashion trends shift in favour of comfort, without compromising its romantic elegance. In the 1950s, Elizabeth Taylor first donned a caftan, and they quickly became famous as her signature style. People around the world love the comfort and inherent femininity of caftans.

Elizabeth Taylor-inspired caftans; Hoodie and pants by Pèro; Sneakers by Onitsuka Tiger; Earrings by The Jewel Factor
Elizabeth Taylor-inspired caftans; Hoodie and pants by Pèro; Sneakers by Onitsuka Tiger; Earrings by The Jewel Factor

Pull it off

1. The right fit depends on your body type; go one size bigger if you want to keep up with the oversized trend.

2. Caftans have a variety of sleeves styles; choose them based on your body shape and size. You can wear a sleeve with bat wings if you want a larger frame. Medium-size women should go for bell-sleeve caftans, and to look petite, can go for a cap or sleeveless caftans.

3. Wear a solid colour under sheer caftans. For example, if you’re wearing a caftan with white pants, you must also wear a white cami. 

4. Hoodies are another fun element added to caftans. Don’t forget to add jute espadrilles or Mary-Janes.

Expert’s take

Nida Mahmood
Nida Mahmood

 “Combine an oversized caftan or shirt with a sultry shift dress. Using a large obi belt, cinch your waist. Wear booties and a cross-body satchel bag to emulate my signature style,” says fashion designer, Nida Mahmood.

Sherlock style

Wear oversized jackets with thigh-high dresses, patterned tees, and sneakers; On Rhea: Coat by November Noon; Dress by Limerick; Earrings by The Jewel Factor; Shoes by Charles & Keith; On Sahil: Pants by United Colors of Benetton; Shirt and coat by November Noon; Sneakers by Onitsuka Tiger (Hari Nair)
Wear oversized jackets with thigh-high dresses, patterned tees, and sneakers; On Rhea: Coat by November Noon; Dress by Limerick; Earrings by The Jewel Factor; Shoes by Charles & Keith; On Sahil: Pants by United Colors of Benetton; Shirt and coat by November Noon; Sneakers by Onitsuka Tiger (Hari Nair)

The Great Coat, which served as the reference for Belstaff’s iconic Milford coat, was recreated in the Sherlock Homes television series starring actor Benedict Cumberbatch and has since come to be associated with the character of Sherlock Holmes. Follow the detective’s fashion footprints to get this look.

The Great Coat, which served as the reference for Belstaff’s iconic Milford coat, was recreated in the Sherlock Homes television series starring actor Benedict Cumberbatch
The Great Coat, which served as the reference for Belstaff’s iconic Milford coat, was recreated in the Sherlock Homes television series starring actor Benedict Cumberbatch

Pull it off

1. Keep in mind that the coat’s shoulders should slope downward, and the sleeves should end over the top of the wrist bone. You can go one size bigger, too.

2. Play with fabrics, but the basic elements of this coat, like the double-breasted closure and structured collar, should not be disturbed. 

 3. Try it with a long shirt or kurta and regular or harem pants. 

4. Women can include colourful prints and a stylised sleeve in the blazer.

Expert’s Favourite:

“Personally, I enjoy wearing oversized jackets with thigh-high dresses, patterned tees, and sneakers,” reveals fashion designer Nida Mahmood.

From HT Brunch, August 27, 2022

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