A heritage hotel run by princesses

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(Image credit: Joshua Paul Acker)

(Credit: Joshua Paul Akers)

Not only has Odisha’s Belgadia Palace been transformed into an award-winning boutique hotel, but its princess owners are redefining the role of Indian royalty.

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I was excited to see the palace for the first time when the bougainvillea-adorned doors opened and I was greeted by a smartly dressed footman. So did my taxi driver, who pulled over three times to happily tell passing strangers where we were going. The beautiful white mansion at the end of the driveway is not only because I follow the property on social media, but the exterior looks like it was originally designed to replicate Buckingham Palace.

Belgadia Palace is a restored 18th century royal palace in the eastern Indian state of Odisha. Having hosted and entertained guests of Mayurbhanj’s royal family for five generations, it was recently transformed into an award-winning boutique hotel by its princess owners. Not only are the sisters determined to restore the 11-bedroom, 2,100-square-foot mansion to its former glory, they are doing so in a way that preserves Odisha’s culture and history.

Akshita Banj Deo (pictured) and her sister Mrinalika are determined to restore Belgadia Palace to its former glory (Credit: Joshua Paul Akers)

Akshita Banj Deo (pictured) and her sister Mrinalika are determined to restore Belgadia Palace to its former glory (Credit: Joshua Paul Akers)

Akshita Bhanj Deo and her sister Mrinalika – the princesses of Meurbhanj – are part of the Bhanj dynasty, a royal family originating from the central and northern regions of Odisha that traces its roots back to 697 AD. The sisters are the 48th generation, and are the first to be fully grown after class. In the year After independence from India in 1947 and the abolition of privy purses (payments paid to the royal family by the Indian government in 1971), maintaining large properties became a financial burden for most royals, and turning them into hotels became a prudent business move.

While there are many royal palace conversions in India, it is still rare to get a chance to stay with the royal family and learn about the history of the region directly from the family. In fact, the daily involvement of the family is the key to the success of the Belgadian palace. Akshita regularly shows guests around the property and is very involved in local craft projects such as sabai grass weaving, while their father Maharaja plays billiards with guests, regaling them with stories about environmental projects.

I met Akshita on the driveway and we passed through an arched entrance that was built high enough for elephants to pass through. Her ancestral estate, she told me, was originally used to entertain foreign dignitaries, and the palace was full of entertainment—billiard rooms, vast libraries, and the grand “Edo” hall with its high ceiling and ornate chandeliers.

of "Or" The ballroom is one of the many rooms that were originally used for visiting foreign leaders (Credit: Joshua Paul Akers)

The “Edo” ballroom is one of many rooms originally used for visiting foreign dignitaries (Credit: Joshua Paul Akers)

The interior is resplendent in the early 20th century, a period seen as the region’s golden age, from the swinging jazz music played in the ballroom to the walls decorated with peacock feathers – the Bhanj dynasty was born out of local legend. Peephole eyes. Each generation has added to the palace, the new white wings of the building have been stretched to the side, but it is the sisters who have ensured its longevity and are defining the role of Indian royalty through their work.

“I think my parents are really the lost generation; they saw the abolition of private purses. [and no longer had a defined role] But after economic independence, my sister and I were able to access world news – and then we chose to come back and do something for our community,” Akshita said.

Akishita and Mrinalika started renovating the property in 2010. They upcycled some antique furniture, while other design choices came from studying their grandparents’ sketchbooks and archived photos, many of which are now displayed on the property’s walls.

The palace is located in the eastern Indian state of Odisha, a part of the country that is off the radar of most international tourists (Credit: Joshua Paul Akers)

The palace is located in the eastern Indian state of Odisha, a part of the country that is off the radar of most international tourists (Credit: Joshua Paul Akers)

However, they have added a modern twist by introducing bright colors on the walls as well as a projector room for viewing movies, a swimming pool and a huge outdoor chess set. This approach seems to work: the combination has helped draw attention to Belgadia Palace, with Vogue India even shooting here. The property now walks an unusual line between royal palace and elegant homestay, with guests mingling in communal lounges, playing chess and watching films in the screening room.

The focus on sustainability has been a challenge at times, mixed with the introduction of modern necessities such as efficient plumbing and WiFi. “One of the hardest parts was making sure it was practical and still kept the historical aspects of the house,” explains Akshita. “The walls of the palace are very thick, it was difficult to pass the pipes and wires, and the ladder was not 44ft as a standard, so they had to be specially made.”

Odisha is not on the radar for most international tourists, but the sisters are looking to change that. They are very active on social media, they are running Twitter And Instagram is used for hotel accounts as well as being featured in many magazine articles promoting their property and region. While these pursuits obviously bring more business, they also have the secondary benefit of helping to raise Odisha’s profile – a region where 23% of the population is made up of tribal communities – and preserving the region’s cultural heritage by providing a platform for artists and performers.

The renovated property walks an unusual line between royal palace and elegant country retreat (Credit: Joshua Paul Acker)

The renovated property walks an unusual line between royal palace and elegant country retreat (Credit: Joshua Paul Acker)

“There’s this part of the world that doesn’t get the respect it deserves in art and culture, and that’s what we want to do. If people are interested in royalty, that’s great, but if we can take that interest and turn it inward. Community efforts and community leaders, that’s our hope and our goal.” [at the Belgadia Palace]” explains Akshita.

A percentage of the revenue from guests goes to the Mayurbhanj Foundation, a charitable fund founded by the sisters that supports local communities through art, sports, education and hygiene programs. The property features artist residencies, which allow guests to purchase pieces from local artists, and there are regular live music performances.

One evening on the palace lawn, we watched Odisha, an Odisha classical dance form from the temples. If you turned down the spotlights, we could easily be watching a performance from 100 years ago, where a 14-year-old local dancer combines dramatic eye movements and timed footwork to tell stories of gods and goddesses.

“We know that the house and its heritage will not last unless there is community support, and also that tourism has a lot of impact on jobs and livelihoods. The only way it can last for another few hundred years is if people think, ‘This property is relevant to me,'” said Akshita.

The palace hosts regular live music performances, including Odisha, a classical dance form of Odisha (Credit: Joshua Paul Akers)

The palace hosts regular live music performances, including Odisha, a classical dance form of Odisha (Credit: Joshua Paul Akers)

Their entrepreneurial spirit and philanthropic nature is something that runs in the family. Odisha has experienced several invasions due to its strategic location, which has historically targeted male members of the royal family. That means the larger task of caring for the Mayurbanj region falls to female family members, who focus on building hospitals, schools and buildings that promote education and health.

The current two generations of Mayurbhanj royals live on the second floor of the palace, with Akshita and her sister in one wing and their parents in the other. In a shared living space that was previously her grandmother’s last private room, I could see this woman’s influence on design choices. Wooden walls are contrasted with pink velvet seats, huge, patterned rugs sit on tiled floors and crystal bowls are filled with flowers. “It will be published in publications,” explains Akshita.

It was common in India to marry members of another royal family, and Akshita’s grandmother was a Nepalese princess. Akshita says, “You won’t find any pictures of men in this room, only pictures of my grandmother with her sisters.

Formerly Akshita's grandmother's private space, the upstairs living area is a riot of color and texture (Credit: Joshua Paul Acker)

Formerly Akshita’s grandmother’s private space, the upstairs living area is a riot of color and texture (Credit: Joshua Paul Acker)

However, there was a whole cabinet for the awards her grandmother’s dog had won. What sets Belgadia Palace apart from other Indian royal properties is the mix of private heritage and boutique hotel luxury. In the year It also baffles Akshita’s grandmother, who lived on the property until her death in 2020.

“Until she passed, she would sit with her binoculars and ask who the people were. [the guests] They were on the property,” said Akshita.

With that, the princess headed off to make some calls, the Great Dane in tow. She leaves me with a parting gift: handmade The roof A grass basket made locally by Hasa Atalair, a brand that empowers women of Odisha to earn an income from their handicrafts. In one of the recent photographs of the same, I saw her in the background of the palace interior, pictured on the brand.

Ever glamorous, with community craftspeople always at the forefront of her mind, Akshita looks like a true modern-day princess.

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